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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: knife river on January 24, 2007, 11:29:00 AM
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Sorry for the wait, but here's a short how-to on flintknapping. Knapping has been described as making little rocks out of big rocks, and there's some truth to that. Making the little rocks look the way you want, though, takes some understanding of the way rock breaks and how you can control that.
Not all rocks are created equal. We need rocks that are glass-like: rocks that are homogenous, grain-free, and have a high silica content. They also need to fracture conchoidally (that means the breaks are shell shaped). A few of the good knapping materials are flint, chert, chalcedony, some jaspers, and some quartzites. There's also obsidian (glass produced by volcanic activity) and of course, glass.
Here's our victim: this is a piece of Knife River Flint from North Dakota. Most of you folks are probably most interested in making arrowpoints. I'll start with something fairly large (a knife blade) because it's a lot easier to observe the process on a large piece. To make an arrowpoint you'd use the same basic process but on a much smaller scale. I'll try to show that later.
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/krf123/tute4.jpg)
There are two basic ways to knap. One is percussion, where you strike the edge of the stone to break off flakes. This is generally the "rough" work to thin and shape a large rock. Controlled percussion can be used to nearly finish a piece. These are the tools I'll use to percussion that piece of Knife River. There's a billet (what I strike the stone with): it's a 5" rod of solid copper, 1" in diameter. Copper is soft enough that it deforms slightly and "grabs" the edge of the stone. Steel and iron are too hard. Other materials that are used for percussion include large antlers, dense sandstone, and some super-dense hardwoods. I typically use copper: it's cheap, readily available, gives very predictable results, and lasts a long time. The other things work very well, too.
There are a couple of grinding stones in the photo. The coarse grit is used for rough work: the fine grit is used for more precise work. You can't overestimate the importance of grinding stones. You use them to abrade and dull the place on the edge where you're going to hit. That allows the energy from the billet swing to travel into the stone, releasing the intended flake. Otherwise, the edge of the stone would shatter into tiny fragments.
Don't overlook the leather pad. You'll need something like that to protect your leg during percussion.
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/krf123/tute.jpg)
I don't want to jump too far ahead, but I'll go ahead and mention it. The other main knapping technique is pressure flaking, where you place a tool against the edge and press to remove flakes. Here's a pic of those tools:
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/krf123/tute17.jpg)
The grinder is there again, joined by a long pressure flaker which is usually called an "Ishi stick." Ishi used a long wooden stick tipped with a horseshoe nail to pressure flake. This one is made of a 3/4" Delrin rod and tipped with 3/16" copper. The rectangular block is a hand pad to protect your palm. It's a piece of maple glued to a bit of dense rubber. Conveyor belt works great, too. Later on there'll be pics of how these tools are used.
One of the first things we need to do is look at the rock. Look for obvious problems like cracks or other potential problems (crystal pockets, fossils, limestone inlusions, etc.). Try to envision the finished piece in the stone so that you can get the most out of the rock.
Knapping is all about angles. You'll hear knappers yak a lot about convexities and concavities. Simply said, flakes need convexity to travel. Concavity will stop a flake short. That can lead to all kinds of problems. As you're looking over your rock, look for those angles and be aware of them as you knap. Now let's get started on that sweet piece of rock!
Here's how I hold the rock. Being righthanded, the rock is in my left hand, and that hand is anchored on my left leg (note the leather leg pad!) I try to keep the rock still -- no moving targets. Make a controlled swing. Even though it's a piece of rock, good knapping stone is brittle and will break very easily if you hit it in the right place. You don't have to swing like you're trying to put it over the left field fence.
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/krf123/tute2.jpg)
Note that it's the EDGE of the stone that's struck -- not someplace out in the middle. We're breaking flakes off and they start at the edge. The flakes come off the underside of the rock.
In this pic, I'm pointing at the place I want to hit. That's called the platform. A flake will detach from that point and follow a convexity.
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/krf123/tute6.jpg)
Now grind the platform so that it absorbs the energy from the billet strike.
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/krf123/tute8.jpg)
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:D I've been waiting for this..... Terry
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tagging for email notification :-)
Proceed sir, looks great :clapper:
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Double-check the area you're driving the flake into. Make sure it's a convexity. Here we've got that plus a nice ridge for the flake to follow. Flakes, like mature bucks, love to follow ridges.
One thing you might notice about that platform was that it was at the point of a "V" on the edge, putting it close to the face I wanted to flake. I generally keep the platforms as close as possible to the face I want to flake. That helps insure a longer, more successful flake.
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/krf123/tute7.jpg)
Here's the flake. It's about what I wanted. Only a few thousand more to go.
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/krf123/tute9.jpg)
Here are four flakes that are set back in place. The blade is fairly flat, but there is still enough convexity and ridges for the flakes to travel. On the two flakes to the left, the platforms are visible. Platforms that project slightly from the edge like isolated little islands are easy to hit. They help the flake release cleanly, too, so that most of the energy goes into removing good flakes.
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/krf123/tute11.jpg)
This piece of stone is thinning down nicely, thanks to flakes like thes that are traveling more than halfway across the face.
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/krf123/tute12.jpg)
Take a few flakes from the opposite edge to remove some high spots and this face is pretty smooth.
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/krf123/tute13.jpg)
These flakes didn't need to be as large as the others. They just needed to slide under some high spots and blend into the big flakes from the opposite side. Experience will show you how large your platform needs to be for certain flakes, as well as how hard you need to swing.
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/krf123/tute14.jpg)
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Cool!
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Ya gotta love this site......This is great, thank you.
ChuckC
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Very cool Woody! I am enjoying this!
Bill
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Very informative thread. Thanks.
One last thing -- making little rocks out of big ones used to be a phrase meaning/referring to "prison."
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This pic shows eight arrows drawn on the preform. Each preform points to an isolated platform that I want to strike with the billet. It may be hard to see, but in front of each platform there's a convex ridge for the flake to follow. It may be very subtle, but it's there!
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/krf123/tute15.jpg)
Photobucket is acting squirrelly, so I'm just going to paste one photo at a time.
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Here's a side view. See how each of those platforms is slightly isolated from the rest of the edge? The platforms are ground, but the edges on either side are sharp. That means the platform will be strong, but the sharp, brittle edge, will allow the flake to detach cleanly and smoothly without shocking the stone. The flakes will come off the face under my thumb.
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/krf123/tute16.jpg)
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Thanks Woody, I've been lookin forward to this!!
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Now let's jump forward: all the percussion work is done. The preform has the general shape we want, and the side-to-side contours are pretty acceptable. The edge will still be somewhat ragged and ratty, and we want to refine that, as well as the overall silhouette. We can take care of those things with pressure flaking.
Pressure work is more precise than percussion, but the flakes are a lot smaller. All the same principles apply, though. You always have to mind the convexity and keep the edge properly ground. With pressure work, though, you can grind the entire edge as though it's one long platform. Just start flaking at one end and work your way down to the other.
You can vary the size of the pressure flakes. For flakes that are long, deep, and wide you can either grind the edge extra hard (making a stronger platform), set the pressure flaker's tip further "behind" the edge, or push more "into" the piece. That probably sounds like gibberish if you're unfamiliar with knapping. Again, a lot of this just comes with breaking a lot of rocks. What I'm trying to get across is that you have a lot of control over what you remove from the preform.
Here's a pic of one holding technique I use. The preform is down between my legs. The point of the pressure flaker goes against (or slightly behind) the ground edge. Push inward and the flake will detach against the handpad. Vary the angle to produce longer or shorter flakes.
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/krf123/tute18.jpg)
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Here's a pic of an edge that's prepared for pressure flaking. I've already taken one pass of pressure flakes which helped smooth and straighten the edge. Another pass of pressure flakes off the other face should smooth it even more.
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/krf123/tute19.jpg)
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After all the major pressure flaking is done, there are tiny remnants of that continuous platform on the edge. To remove those dull, ground edges, I sharpen the point of the Ishi stick and carefully flake off the ground remnants. Work on straightening the edge and getting the silhouette you're after. Notice the holding technique is different. The handpad and preform is now up in front of me about chest high. I don't need to generate a lot of pressure -- the longest flake will only be about 1/8" long and I need to watch things closely.
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/krf123/tute21.jpg)
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Some state laws prohibit double edged knives and don't make an exception for stone knives. To make sure that this blade is copasetic, I'm going to dull the back edge with a technique known as "stitching."
It's a straightforward trick, but like a lot in knapping, not all that easy to explain. First I make a couple passes down the edge with short, steep pressure flakes, trying to get the edge to a 45 degree bevel. Then I start beveling it back in the other direction, but stop when the edge is centered in the double bevel. Then starting at the base, I take short, deep flakes from alternating faces, moving toward the tip. That creates a zig-zag edge. Grind down any sharp edges and you have the knapping equivalent of filework on a steel blade.
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/krf123/tute20.jpg)
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Here's the finished blade with a roughed-out handle. I bandsawed a slot for the blade and fine-tuned it with a Dremel. Now to make some more sawdust with files, sandpaper, and steel wool...
You fellow wood-junkies are going to ask about the wood. I don't know for sure -- maybe one of you can tell me. I was told it's amboyna: not burl, but curl. It's pretty dense and heavy with open pores. Very vibrant curl!
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/krf123/tute22.jpg)
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Awesome, A picture is definitely worth a thousand words. Thanks.
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Very nice tutorial. Thanks Woody. I had not heard the concavity / convexity before... makes sense.
I know the knapping bug will get me soon. Got the basic tools and some rock, just waiting for it to come around on the guitar.
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Throw some epoxy, tung oil, and a turks head knot at it and call it done.
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/krf123/tute23.jpg)
We'll be out of pocket for a few days, but when I get back, I'll try and post more about making arrowpoints. I hope this didn't completely confuse anyone. Knapping is one of those visually-intense things that's beyond my ability to explain.
The BEST way for someone to learn is to sit with an experienced knapper for one-on-one lessons. There are knap-ins all over the country and thousands of good knappers out there. The next best way is probably through DVDs, and there are quite a few to choose from. Raptor Archery and 3Rivers both carry some good ones. The hardest way is through reading, although there are quite a few books on the subject. Hope to see some of you TG'ers at a knap-in sometime!
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Simply unbelievable! What a masterpiece.
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Beautiful!
I have often wondered how strong these blades would be (more importantly, how long it would be before I snap the tip off).
I will be buying a copy of Mr. Blackwell's DVD.
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Excellent!!!
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Thanks Woody, got your DVD in december what a great tutorial! Been looking for chert ever since, only to find out it is EVERYWHERE! Appears in bands in dolomitic rock.I grew up in sight of the Cradle of Humankind /Sterkfontein, Kromdraai etc I Lived out there for a few years and would find middle stone age and a few later stone age handaxes etc. At last I can follow a clear process,the knife is fabulous.
Chrisg
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like I have been telling you....YOU'RE THE MAN!!! In or out of a pimp suit! :scared: :biglaugh:
I got to lay on a couch in an air conditioned hunting camp last July for two afternoons and watch this stuff being done.
You fellas wouldn't believe how fast Woody is at this stuff...while talking mind you, explaining what he was doing, his hands were like swallows flitting over a mosquito pond- moving, hitting ever so gently- flipping- studying- tapping- and a rock the size of a small boulder became a hand held 9 inch knife that was paper thin and razor sharp in less than two hours. the man has so much talent...and if you can believe it, he's only been doing this for about 10 years.
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Woody, you just make that look so easy... but I know better! You're a real artist at work here, and it sure is cool to watch the process. Thanks!
Last summer at Comptons I was sorely tempted to buy one of your blades, but didn't pull the trigger. I don't know how long I can keep resisting! Those are beautiful! :notworthy:
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Really nice tute Woody, thanks. This one has got to go on the tute page!!! :notworthy: :archer:
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Many thanks, all. Pjsnell, as far as cutting soft tissue goes, nothing is better. If you're taking a hip joint apart, the blade will break. The stone is just too brittle to take that kind of bending and twisting.
Ray, I know I look young and beautiful (HAH!!!), but I've been at this for almost 17 years. And I was a late bloomer, at that. GGG I was in my early 30s when I started. What I wouldn't give to have gotten started in my teens... But if that's the worst regret I'll have today, then it's a darned good day. :) :wavey:
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Just great work,,, that's all I can say!
Thanks for sharing this with all!
Well I have too say it again,,, GREAT WORK!
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Absulutely fabulous as always Woody! There's not many things more enjoyable than to sit and watch a talented Craftsman like yourself perform his magic. Thanks again Buddy!
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That knife is super-fine! I wish someday I will be able to do that! Or something remotely close even! ...that is awesome.
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Absoultely amazing work. I truly admire your abilities. I'm a fledgling knapper and have watched your DVD about 20 times already and seem to pick up something new everytime I watch it. Thanks so much for this tut. Sure wish I had your talent.
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Woody, That is a work of art. I can't wait to see the next one. I am going to get a copy of your DVD. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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Guys, I really appreciate all your comments. I wish it was possible to cover knapping in depth, but as any knapper will tell you, this tutorial barely scratches the surface. Knapping is a lot like playing the guitar: it's easy to pick up the basics, but it'd take a lifetime (or three) to master it. After a few tons of rock and 17 years of hard practice, I feel like I'm getting the hang of a few things, but there'll never be enough time to master it all. The good thing about that is I'll never get bored. GGG
Chrisg, I'd love to see pics of some of the chert you're finding over there! This week I've gotten rock from Poland, England, France, and Denmark. Never had the chance to see any from South Africa, though! If you're up for some kind of trade, let's chat.
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In Oregon there is a lot of obsidian. I would think that would be good stuff to knap....?
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Snag, obsidian (not the snowflake kind) would be GREAT to learn on! Cheap, easy to knap, cheap, instant feedback, cheap, and nice to look at. The price for it isn't bad, either! :) :thumbsup:
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Beautiful job, Woody, on the knife, and on the teutorial. I don't care how your modesty suffers, I'm here to tell folks that you are a "National Treasure" (and you never even show signs of knowing it). :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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Man you made that look easy :) Beautiful knife, now I am going to get my stuff out and try figuring this stuff out again. Thanks for sharing your knowledge
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Great tute and a great looking knife.Looking forward to more instalments. :clapper: :clapper: :clapper:
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Woody,
Outstanding tutorial. I have been knapping about three years, but your explanation is so simple and sensible, it makes me wonder why I make so many mistakes! I love your DVD also. Thanks for sharing this.
Dan Spier
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Woddy, :thumbsup:
excellent pics and superbly explained. I certainly will wait here for the rest ...
Falk
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Absolutely fantastic. I liked your website too, very nice.
Chris
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This thread is printed off and will go into my flat fold Knapping Notebook, for easy table top reference, as will the one on Arrowheads you plan to do next, and as did one or two from Paleoplanet by other great knappers on slightly different (knapping) subjects. I have a couple of these Notebooks (with printouts of threads on knapping, Cane arrow making, stone point hafting, "nutters", and other subjects of interest to me) and they have been and will be a big help to me when doing/attempting these skills, since my memory doesn't always retain like I wish it would and it is hard to refer to a Table top Computer while working. They also will be of value to someone else someday, I am sure.
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I have seen beer bottle bottoms being used for points. is this even worth the effort? I am just starting to think about knapping, should I learn on stone from the start?
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If you aren't worried about getting legal hunting points, beer bottoms work great. May take some talent/practice to get a workable point with enough width/weight out of one tho.
Great practice material.
One of the best learning stones is obsidian, and other than more impurities, it's just glass, really the same thing as beer bottle bottoms, at least from a flaking perspective.
Of course I'm a newb and should let someone experienced pipe in LOL.
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Beer or wine bottles, obsidian, all good. Check out plate glass dealers in your area. Ask about their scraps or cut-offs. If it isn't tempered or safety glass, it'll knap great.
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sir_h_c here's a link to making an arrowhead from a beer bottle
http://www.geocities.com/knappersanonymous/bottle.html