Recently went to split finger and was wondering 2 nocking points or 1one and why? Thanks everyone as always
I think there was just a thread on this last week some time...it seemed the majority all used two in order to prevent any sliding up and down the string, but there's no doubt one will work just fine.
Found it!
http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=145094
Thank you!
There is a lot of great information in that thread. Charlie says two. SO I have two
I suggest two for all my customers that ask that question. If you have ever seen the slow motion video of what a nock does after release with only one nock point, you would agree.
I have been tying on two nock points for around 20 years.Keeps my arrow from sliding at release.
Two made all the difference for me. Strongly recommend it.
I use two but regularly shoot with a guy who came in second at the Trad Worlds last year who uses one. I asked him if he had seen the video of the arrows slipping down the string and he hadn't but his rational is if it slips the same on every shot then the arrow will go the same place so no big deal. He may have a point.
I usually shoot with 2 tie on nocks but i will also use 1 and nock above. No problems
Hi Rich, Delta-Peachbottom is a month away. Hope to see you there buddy.
I'll go against the grain and only like one and its above the nock. I can place nock on string and slide it up to nocking point without looking at bow string. That helps when nocking a arrow while looking at game, aerial shooting and speed rounds.
Two insures consistency upon release. Consistency promotes accuracy.
That's it....
One is ok for split finger. 2 is best if shot 3 under.
Some of my bows have two and some have one. If you shoot different width arrows and nock below a nocking point, the fatter shaft will effectively have a lower nocking point. If you nock the arrow above the nocking point, then if you shoot a skinny arrow and then a fatter wood arrow, the nocking point will remain the same. Now if you mix in some tapered shafts, they may need a slightly higher nocking point. Thankfully for me, it does not make that much, if any, difference when I nock the arrow above when going from 1918s to tapered 11/32" arrows. Hill nocked above, it did not seem to affect his accuracy much. I could see if the string was smaller than the throat of the nock, things could slip around, like a skinny string and a snap on nock with a large round hole in the throat of the slot. It is very irritating when my arrow keeps sliding up the string when deer hunting, I always end up adding a small tie on and just stick with one arrow out of that particular bow. I can feel the bottom nocking point with my thumb and nock without looking. The justification for one, given by Schulz about sliding the arrow down the string, has always been a mute one for me. With my heavy B55 strings, the nocks were just that little bit too tight to slide easily, although once shot in, the string had a shallow spot so the nocks would easily shoot without impinging the arrow flight like a tight nock will.
One above made with dental floss as used for many years on my B-50 strings. Used to put model airplane glue over it but don't any more so I can move it. Have the more modern clip on type everyone uses in my tool box for out quick fixes but don't like'em. Also like the looks of a tied knocking point better than the brass clip on's. I shoot split finger too.
I shoot split, but still use two.
Never felt the need for more than one.
One...and contrary to John Schulz or Howard Hill...I nock below Without looking, I can nock the arrow, then slide it up. Been shooting this way for years.
I posted the original link posted by Scherffle. Very interesting information in both of this. I just set up a new string for my Predator Hunter. I shoot split finger and opted to go with 1 nocking point above and nock the arrow below.
I shoot split and nock below the nocking point. I have tried both one and two and have never noticed much difference in my accuracy or flight of arrow.
QuoteOriginally posted by joe skipp:
One...and contrary to John Schulz or Howard Hill...I nock below Without looking, I can nock the arrow, then slide it up. Been shooting this way for years.
I've been shooting that way too. Just for a few months though it's hard to imagine going back to handling by arrows by the shaft instead of by the nock. I always use to use two nock points but after switching to the Hill technique. I see no reason to my accuracy has not changed.
i became a two nock convert today.
tuning some cedars for Etar and i could get decent flight with the new arrows but keep having fliers here and there.
thought about this thread and tried two brass nocksets.
what a difference, tightened up my groups and when i had the occasional stray, i knew it was my poor release or torgue, not my sorta loose fitting nocks sliding around
A.S. you mention the slo mo video on nocks moving. do you have a link to some.