One of my missions is to shoot a buck with my longbow. Last year, I came close 2 times but dropped my arm on the first one and had the lower limb hit something on the second. As I prepare for this season, I am struggling with accuracy. My groups range from 2" to 12" while shooting from 12-20 yards. I can grab my recurve and shoot a fist size group with no issues but for some reason I can't do it with the longbow on a consistent basis. The one thing I notice is that with the recurve, I draw back and it is very smooth from anchor to release and there is no hand shock. With the longbow, it just doesn't feel smooth and easy. (if that makes sense) Any tips???
My longbow is a #50 Bear Montana with arrows that fly straight when bare shaft tuning.
The recurve is a #50 Bear Grizzly.
ive been through exactly what you describe, I have a longbow that is as you say, at times I can shoot reasonable groups and at others I get flyers, im just not as consistent as with my recurve, which is actually 4 lbs heaver, the recurve just draws smoother all the way through. But I do have another longbow that does draw almost as smooth as the recurve that I can shoot almost as well. all that was said to say I think a lot has to do with bow design, if you were to stick with your longbow only you would probably adapt. but its hard to do that knowing you can be much more accurate and consistent with a different bow, and why its hard for me to leave something that works so well for me. that's worded pretty badly but I will go through the summer shooting a longbow hoping to get comfortable and confident, but pick up the recurve and can really shoot it better, I hate to risk a bad shot on a animal because I want to shoot another bow. Im sure if I would just sell the recurve or put it up and stick with my best shooting longbow, I would probably obtain the same accuracy in time.
Could it be the mass weight difference betweem your recurve and longbow. Being your heavier of the 2 to be mors stable. I shoot a heavier recurve than longbiw. Was one of 3 things. Gripping the bow to hard, my release or being stable. Mine was more being stable so I tried a bow quiver on the longbow and it helped out tremendously.
Had the same problem when I first got my Montana, it was all in how I gripped the bow. You must consciously drop your wrist so the draw pressure is concentrated in the center of the Palm. Also be certain to grip the bow loosely so you don't torque the bow on release
Yes, You need an EagleWing. What you are describing is an inconsistent grip and sight window and shelf work. I can give you a low grip that will grip in a sonsistant manner and a low shelf so you are shooting right over the hand with shelf radiused and set up for accuracy. You will not believe the difference until you actually shoot it.
God bless, Steve
As well as grip mentioned above, you can introduce some bend in your bow arm (if this was not mentioned). Assuming you are shooting the same arrows, you will not be drawing them the same length but shorter through your longbow to some degree.
You'll have to get past the mental image you have likely acquired now of your longbow not having the same accuracy potential as your recurve...it does.
Try approaching it differently knowing that it will be different.
Will you be at the WTA Horicon shoot this weekend?
Look me up there, if you want to go over some stuff, maybe I can help?
Kris
hrmkris@aol.com
cell 608 695-5083
Would having the grip modified on the Montana help produce a more consistent hand position? If so, is there someone that does this work?
Already given good advice. Mass weight difference makes a big difference to some folks. It's easier to hold a physically heavier bow on target. Putting a bow quiver on your longbow will increase it's mass weight and may help. Bent arm and gentle low wrist grip, as has already been pointed out, will reduce torque and should help you hold on better.
Modifying the grip, IMO, isn't the answer. The arrow rest is a pretty obvious feature. Shouldn't be difficult to consistently place your hand on the grip with the rest as a reference. I don't think your issue is getting a consistent grip, but rather the right grip.
Work on some of the things these folks have suggested. Your accuracy will come around. Good luck.
I did some shooting with a more relaxed grip and the group did get smaller. I will continue to work on it. I know it is not the bows fault, but the nut driving it.
I'm afraid the elephant in the room is, a straight limbed, broom handle grip, longbow is not going to be as accurate as a recurve constructed to the same level of quality. That's why they have separate divisions for longbows and recurves. Everything you do to that longbow design to make it more like a recurve will increase it's accuracy: contoured grips, reflex deflex limbs, heavier mass weight. It is still a "longbow" as long as the string doesn't touch the limbs anywhere other than the nocks, but some longbow tournaments have stricter rules than that, so not all longbows can compete in all longbow tournaments.
This is not to say that a pure straight longbow in a shooting machine won't shoot as well as a recurve in a shooting machine, because it probably will. But everything you do to "soften up" that longbow is to make it shoot better in the hand, not in a shooting machine.
Personally, I prefer a highly reflexed deflexed longbow with a contoured grip to a recurve, because I think you get the best of both worlds: performance almost as good as a full recurve, and reliability almost as good as a straight limbed longbow.
McDave said it all. I agree 100%.
I have all types of bows and shoot each of them regularly. I shoot the contoured gripped recurves the best, followed by the hybrid, and lastly the low wristed longbows.
I love shooting the longbows the most, but when it's time to get serious and kill something I go for the recurve or hybrid.
McDave is on target. I found the R/D longbows have almost 100% knowledge transfer. They provide the best of both worlds. :campfire:
McDave what does a good breeding pair of armadillos set you back???
Accuracy is in the operator. Some things you can operate better than others. Meaning not all grips will work for you etc. If you got a curve you shoot well then you probably need a longbow with a similar grip or vise versa.
It helps to go down in draw weight with lighter mass bows. If you can't shoot them as accurately as a heavier riser designs it may be over bowed for you.
when I went to a straight grip longbow I shot nothing but bare shafts at 5-20 yards. I could see immediately when I was doing something wrong.
took a while and I put the recurve away and focused on only the longbow. Hard to master 2 weapons at the same time.
I spent a lot of time trying to shoot a longbow as consistantly as a recurve to no avail.Can't say why.
A low wrist r/d can be shot much the same as a Hill style bow. The arm may straighten out a bit depending on the grip, but the rest of the process can be the same. If one is trying to shoot one just like the recurve with a straight armed static form, a longbow may not be for you. Every time I have found someone that says that they can shoot a recurve better than a longbow, they were trying to invent a new way to shoot a longbow. I would suggest to approach it through the John Schulz videos on You Tube and do it just as he says. You may need a different arrow and you may get a different draw length. Those Montana longbows do real well with wood arrows cut to a minimum length. A longbow shines when fluid versatility is utilized.
It's not the longbow, Take a look at all of the trick shooters, They use longbows....
Just learn hoe to hold her, And practice.
Your bear montana's self wont be as center cut as your grizzly. That makes the spine of the arrow more important, and usually needs a slightly lighter spine arrow. I always shoot left when I pick up a longbow after shooting a curve for awhile. It has to do with the sight picture and the arrow sitting on the shelf that isn't center cut. I shoot my longbows with a little more cant to make up the difference. This will also help you from shooting over that big bucks back out of a tree stand! To try an reduce hand shock you can put a FF string on it if its a newer Montana. My disclaimer would be to check with Bear before you do it. I know the new ones would handle it fine, but not sure when you got yours. It might already have on one it. Keep shooting you will get it.
If you shoot your long bow with the same open hand loose grip as you do your recurve, there is no difference other than a different feel to the draw....but that can screw you up until you get used to it.... check out Ron LaClair's thread on his new HH style bow and read his commentary on "gripping the bow"....
Another video to check out is Arnie Moe. Watch how he lets the bow settle into his hand as he draws and rotate to the same exact spot every time...
https://youtu.be/6c8_-96h6BY
I have no doubt that an Eaglewing is a great bow but you need a Hummingbird Kingfisher or AlphaMale longbow. Your troubles will be over.
Every time you add an improvement, it makes it a bit easier to use. Every single step, from larger heavier risers, to cut to center, to stabilizers to front sight, rear sight, range finder, release, all these. MOST folks SHOULD be able to shoot a rifle easier and more accurately than a longbow.
That does not mean you cannot shoot a longbow, and very accurately at that. You need to play with it and practice with it and find what works best for you. Often we are stuck on a certain form, hold, draw etc and think that is the best for all bows and all situations. Often it is not.
Don't compare your longbow against any other bow. It is what it is, learn how to use IT, if you really want to use it.
My pick up truck isn't as good handling as a sports car (though it is pretty danged fast), not as comfy as a Cadillac, but boy, when it comes to hauling a ton of crap ( maybe literally), those others won't touch it. It is what it is, use it for what it is.
There is a shoot at Horicon this weekend. You should come on out and ask questions in person so we can try to help. Bring your longbow.
ChuckC
My son is planning on taking his Robertson for a run at the Horicon shoot this Saturday. 6'2", 240 pounds, shaved head and glasses, he has a good eye for seeing what makes arrows not go where they are suppose to, although he can be rather blunt when he sees something obvious.