OK, I'm so confused right now I don't know which way the stick floats!! I got a new to me Toelke Whip 66" 50#@28" and I draw 29.
I have several Beman Centershot 400s, full lenght, that I'm running with 220 up front, 75gr insert and 145gr field tip, and it is showing weak. I just figured I was getting a false weak due to a form/release issue until I grabbed a GT Kinnetic in 300, only 30" in lenght, with 220 up front and it did show stiff, yeah real stiff.
Should I order 6 340's to see if they work? I know based on the numbers, they would be stiff but as stated earlier I'm confused!
I would not give up on the .400s. My longbow is 50@28, I draw 29.5. I shoot .400s with 200gr up front. Either cut the length down a little on the .400s or lighten up the tip weight. Good luck.
Shoot the 400 full length with just 125 gr. up front, it should show stiff, if you want to use full length add heavier fieldpoints until it shoots right . if not cut back your carbons a quarter/half in. at a time with 220 gr. up front until they shoot right.. just use one arrow to do this that way if you go too far youve only messed up one.. hope this makes sense.
QuoteOriginally posted by indianalongbowshooter:
Shoot the 400 full length with just 125 gr. up front, it should show stiff, if you want to use full length add heavier fieldpoints until it shoots right . if not cut back your carbons a quarter/half in. at a time with 220 gr. up front until they shoot right.. just use one arrow to do this that way if you go too far youve only messed up one.. hope this makes sense.
All makes sense. I have trimmed one a bit, I should have clarified that. I'll play more with the tip weight but it always seems carbons are effected by length more than tip weight.
Thanks
Cut the .400 at 30" and they should be just about right or grab the .340 if you like heavier arrows. I shoot a lot of .340 at 30" with 300 up front of my #51 Toelke Chinook when I want an arrow heavier then 550 grains.
I always verify with tip weight before I cut. For instance, if 50grs less straightens them up bare shaft, then I cut an 1/8" and repeat the process. If its way outta whack, turning sideways hard, I cut 1/2" at a time till I get close then slow and steady as she goes. I like to end up slightly weak flying slightly nock left to 30 yards before I fletch.
I draw 29" and shoot around that poundage a lot. I also use full length 400s, usually with 175 total up front. Release can throw things if you're close to right combo.
QuoteOriginally posted by nineworlds9:
I draw 29" and shoot around that poundage a lot. I also use full length 400s, usually with 175 total up front. Release can throw things if you're close to right combo.
I'm betting it is more my release than anything. I'm also going to play with the tip weight and cut down bit by bit until I get it close.
29.5 inch arrow to BOP// 400 spine with 230 up frt out of my Whippenstick longbow at 51@29.
The more I read about the frustrations so many guys seem to experience with carbon, the more I like wood.
carbons are actually easy to get to shoot good just takes a bit of time..
bought a field point test kit 2 of each and range from 75-300 grain. makes the tune on weight a lot easier. I can get it real close with the points. or I can play with cutoffs and fine tune. best to have both options.