I just want your best guess on spine
my bow shoots 28" 11/32 47-48-49# spine perfect with 125gr heads, if I bump the point weight up to 200gr then what should I go up to in spine, your guess??
my guess is 55-60
I agree. Closer to 60 than 55.
It's gonna be close to 10 lb of spine. I figure 1 lb per 6-7 grains, but it doesn't seem to be a straight line increase and is affected by things like depth of cut.
Would you like to borrow some test arrows?
My guess is 60-65. Jumping 75 grains is quite a bit.
If you are set on the 200 grain point I would get 60-65's and work my way down as close to 28" and you can. If they turn out to be too stiff at 28" you can leave them longer. Of course, you have to experiment and avoid cutting them all until you find the right length.
the reason for the increase is I just bought the 6 LW 210gr Abowyer whitetails in the arrow classifieds and I would love to get these on some arrows, so I'm inspired to just make a fresh dozen.
let me first get the heads and then find some 200gr glue-ons, Fletcher I may take you up on that offer thank you.
thanks everyone for the posts, I'm not experienced enough with woods to hit it on the money first time.
Depending on the depth of your shelf cut, you may be able to work your rest out away from center to at least partially accommodate the point weight.
Try playing with the inputs on Stu's calculator and see what it tells you. I've found it's predictions to be very accurate. If the calcs don't look like it Will work, just build a new set of arrows for the heavy points and leave your present set as is.
I'd probably go 65-70 and trim to tune unless you just had to have 28" arrows.
Are you coming to the Poke & Hope in Maine this July ? If so you can try some of my arrows.I'll bring a broadhead target as well.Sometimes if the broadhead is longer than the field point I think they shoot differently with the extra length out front if the spine is close to being to weak.Might just be my imagination
Even though I make lots of wood arrows for lots of people, I don't think that I am an expert when it comes to 200 grain heads. I like to keep arrows with 160 heads and over as short as possible. Fletcher has it right, it is not a straight line with all shooters and all bows. Test shafts are the way to go. However, test shafts still need to be close to the right length for the shooter. With 200 grain heads an extra inch can make a big difference with some bows.
wow, I can go a bit longer but don't want them sticking out too far because it screws up my concentration.
I have some wapiti shafts all sealed I can try to bare shaft to see what they do with the 200's once I get them, I only draw 27" so going shorter would be better for me.
DDyer, didn't think the poke n hope was still happening, I used to drive up on my motorcycle.
Poke & Hope still on , check the events section
I'm no expert, but my wife and I only shoot woods, and have for the last 5 years or so... I'm thinking like some of the others have suggested, you're gonna end up around 60lbs dynamic spine @ 28", or maybe just a couple pounds higher, to match what works for you currently. So 55/60/ maybe 60/65 @ 28" for the 200grn. heads.
Adjust accordingly if you end up with a different length.
I have never heard of many have much success with bare shafting cedars, although some of my oldest Wapitis fly good with some awful looking shreds of feathers on them. If these are to be for your Vixen, I would not be surprised at all if 60-65s were better.
I have found that you need to add 1# spine weight for every 7grs you add to a wood arrows point weight. If 47#-49# spined arrows fly good out of that bow you are right on the fence. It is better to go a little longer in shaft length, maybe 28.5" bop, with 60/65's and cut them down if you have to than to go with 55/60's and not have enough spine weight even at 28" bop.