Hi guys, new member here and I love this site. Quick noob question if you don't mind. I have a new 62" Samick Sage TD recurve that I'm in the process of tuning. I have a fast flight Flemish string.
I have the measurement range for the brace height and experimenting with adding twist etc but my question is... After I find my sweet spot for brace height, when I un-string/re-string my bow in between usage, do I have to go through this whole process again?
I have some brass nock points I have not attached yet, will crimping the nock point after getting the correct brace height keep the string with the correct number of twists?
Thanks for any input.
Welcome DMCX.
When you unstring your recurve, the top loop slides down the limb while the bot. string loop stays on the bot. limb.
When you restring it; just slide the top loop back up. This keeps the string at the same length it was when you string it again.
Hope this helps.
Welcome!
x2 what kat said. If you do take the string all the way off of the bow, you shouldn't get too much unraveling if you keep it folded up neatly. I always keep a T-square on me just to check though, great tool to have around.
DMCX, if you have any trouble keeping the lower loop from falling off once the upper loop slides down the limb, let me know and I'll send you a string keeper to keep the string snug.
Or, you can just loop a rubber band through the upper loop and wrap it around the string nock to pull the string up.
I agree with blade peek, the only problem I've had with string keepers is some will fray the string.... I tie mine with a sting but am gonna try the rubber band idea
Welcome from Michigan . :wavey:
Like said by the others here .
Have fun and shoot often .
Wow, look at all the help so quick! You guys are great. String keeper huh? Totally makes sense. Thank you all for the help.
I have a lot of playing around to do with finding what's going to work for me. Besides the brace height, I want to do some bare shaft tuning with some aluminum arrows I have. Once I can get that dialed in I have some fletching to do.
Thanks again for your help guys, really appreciate it.
Depending on the string material, strand count, draw weight, outside temps, etc. the string may contract when you unstring, and take a little time to settle back in when you re-string.
I never take the limbs off of the riser. I have a rubber tip protector on the bottom limb and it keeps the string in the groove. I just string and un-string with the top limb to my right. When un-stringing, I just slide the loop down the limb.
Each time I string it for shooting, I give it a little pluck by drawing an inch or two and letting go. Then a draw without an arrow settles it right into place and specs.
:wavey: Ken is right.
Also, crimping a nock point on won't affect whether the string is twisted or not. As others have indicated, just keep the string from untwisting itself by controlling both ends, just the same as if you wound up a rubber band and didn't want it to untwist.
Everyone has hit it pretty well so there's not too much to add. As you tune be sure to find a comfortable mix of "tunning" and "learning to shoot". I think sometimes folks start right off with fine tunning because "thats what the old timers do" and they forget that their inexperience has as much to do with what the arrow is doing as their set up. Id say, tune it for good flight and low noise, and then as you start to get very consistent with your groups and results, ease in to fine tunning. Just get comfortable and have fun shooting and warming up those trad bow muscle groups.
Also, as per your original question, keeping a bow square around is a good idea, but I just put a small line on an arrow at the back of the shelf once my brace is spot on, then youve got a good "brace check" device in hand always. Welcome to the gang and happy shooting!!
Also, no need to unstring it in the first place between shooting sessions.
Many of my bows have been strung for several years
DDave