I started shooting point on with a fixed crawl to help me maintain my shot sequence. I am really liking the style and actually have never shot any more consistent. I'm wondering how you all deal with this method when using a broeadhead. Especially if you are using a long 2 or 3 blade.
I use a 25 yard fixed crawl for hunting. I position my VPA 3 blade so I look right down between the V.
Bottom of chest for under 25, center of chest for 25, top of back for 30.
I tried orienting so a blade was top / vertical to see if I'd like using the blade as a graduated "pin", but it really messed with me. I don't like it being in my sight picture that way.
It's a deadly way to shoot. Consistent form is key.
Never thought of using the "V" . That's a great suggestion. Guess I will need to position my 2 blades horizontally. I am quickly seeing how deadly a system the fixed crawl can be. Agree on the consistent form.
What I was planning on doing was setting a 20 yard fixed crawl and aiming at the bottom of the chest just behind the front leg. At less then 20 the arrow will fly a little high and hit the lungs without knowing the actual yardage and at 20 yards the deer will drop into the arrow when it reacts to the noise of the string, also producing a lung shot.
so, what is a fixed crawl ?
and, are you then counting on the deer to drop only when shooting over 20 yards ? What if it doesn't ? What if the ten yard deer does ?
ChuckC
:dunno:
QuoteOriginally posted by ChuckC:
so, what is a fixed crawl ?
and, are you then counting on the deer to drop only when shooting over 20 yards ? What if it doesn't ? What if the ten yard deer does ?
ChuckC
X2! I would like to hear a little more about this "fixed crawl" also???
Bisch
I think it is what happens to me when I have one too many around the campfire !
CHuckC
A fixed crawl is an abbreviated form of stringwalking.
While stringwalking, your tab is positioned vertically at different positions down the string (the further away from the nock down the string, the closer the shot).
As you can imagine, in low light and under the pressure of a fast approaching animal, looking down at your string, making the crawl to the right location, and executing the shot may be too much to ask especially if you have a P&Y buck quickly approaching, changing it's distance from you every couple of steps. (which would require a new crawl to occur)
So a fixed crawl in the most basic sense is adjusting your point on distance. Everything else is handled just like gap shooting.
This is extremely handy for guys like me that love the feeling of a low anchor point. My point on distance shooting 3 under is roughly 40 yards, and my max gap (20 yds) is around 15 to 18".
By crawling down the string to my 25 yard crawl (now my new "point on" distance) this basically means at 25 yards I stick my broadhead on the animal and the arrow goes there. The "fixed" part of fixed crawl simply means I put a brass nocking point right at my 25 yard crawl. So now instead of addressing the string under my second nocking point right under my arrow, I'm addressing the string at my 25 yard crawl every time at the nocking point placed ~0.75" below my arrow nock on the string.
Another benefit of using a fixed crawl is that in reducing my point on distance to my preferred 25 yards, my max gap now becomes 12.5 yards. In addition, that 15-18" max gap just became 8" with the fixed crawl.
Sooooo, now I tune my arrows and broadheads from one crawl distance on the string (25 yards).
Anything under 25 yards, I hold the tip at the bottom of the chest. (it will effectively shoot between 2 - 8" high putting me in the vitals)
At 25 yards, I'm holding center of chest.
At 30 yards, I'm holding at top of back.
I stringwalk all my hunting and competition bows throughout the off season with no fixed crawl. Basically crawling to a different location on the string for each individual distance.
But as soon as the weather starts to get cooler and fall is approaching, I choose my preferred hunting rig for the year, put a brass nocking point at my 25 yard crawl position, tune in my broadheads, and hit the woods.
Its a deadly approach and remedies a lot of issues found with gap shooting or stringwalking for hunting. (summarized below)
Stringwalking issues a fixed crawl fixes:
1. You can tune your broadhead at one location
2. Can address the string and execute a shot without trying to make your crawls with game approaching
Gap shooting issues a fixed crawl fixes:
1. for us low anchor guys, it greatly reduces our point-on distance to whatever you choose. (15,20,25,30 yards - wherever you want)
2. By reducing your point on, it also reduces the extremely large gaps that us low anchor guys face.
3. The tip stays on the deer for most shots in the woods.
Happy hunting!
You tube jimmy blackmon fixed crawl.he explains it very well.should be called fixed stringwalking lol.ive been shooting like this a couple months and absolutely love it.the one question I have is how do you set tiller on ilf rig when shootin like this?
My bows seem to prefer even tiller or slightly stronger top limb.
You tube jimmy blackmon fixed crawl.he explains it very well.should be called fixed stringwalking lol.ive been shooting like this a couple months and absolutely love it.the one question I have is how do you set tiller on ilf rig when shootin like this?
QuoteOriginally posted by cpnhgnlngct:
A fixed crawl is an abbreviated form of stringwalking.
While stringwalking, your tab is positioned vertically at different positions down the string (the further away from the nock down the string, the closer the shot).
As you can imagine, in low light and under the pressure of a fast approaching animal, looking down at your string, making the crawl to the right location, and executing the shot may be too much to ask especially if you have a P&Y buck quickly approaching, changing it's distance from you every couple of steps. (which would require a new crawl to occur)
So a fixed crawl in the most basic sense is adjusting your point on distance. Everything else is handled just like gap shooting.
This is extremely handy for guys like me that love the feeling of a low anchor point. My point on distance shooting 3 under is roughly 40 yards, and my max gap (20 yds) is around 15 to 18".
By crawling down the string to my 25 yard crawl (now my new "point on" distance) this basically means at 25 yards I stick my broadhead on the animal and the arrow goes there. The "fixed" part of fixed crawl simply means I put a brass nocking point right at my 25 yard crawl. So now instead of addressing the string under my second nocking point right under my arrow, I'm addressing the string at my 25 yard crawl every time at the nocking point placed ~0.75" below my arrow nock on the string.
Another benefit of using a fixed crawl is that in reducing my point on distance to my preferred 25 yards, my max gap now becomes 12.5 yards. In addition, that 15-18" max gap just became 8" with the fixed crawl.
Sooooo, now I tune my arrows and broadheads from one crawl distance on the string (25 yards).
Anything under 25 yards, I hold the tip at the bottom of the chest. (it will effectively shoot between 2 - 8" high putting me in the vitals)
At 25 yards, I'm holding center of chest.
At 30 yards, I'm holding at top of back.
I stringwalk all my hunting and competition bows throughout the off season with no fixed crawl. Basically crawling to a different location on the string for each individual distance.
But as soon as the weather starts to get cooler and fall is approaching, I choose my preferred hunting rig for the year, put a brass nocking point at my 25 yard crawl position, tune in my broadheads, and hit the woods.
Its a deadly approach and remedies a lot of issues found with gap shooting or stringwalking for hunting. (summarized below)
Stringwalking issues a fixed crawl fixes:
1. You can tune your broadhead at one location
2. Can address the string and execute a shot without trying to make your crawls with game approaching
Gap shooting issues a fixed crawl fixes:
1. for us low anchor guys, it greatly reduces our point-on distance to whatever you choose. (15,20,25,30 yards - wherever you want)
2. By reducing your point on, it also reduces the extremely large gaps that us low anchor guys face.
3. The tip stays on the deer for most shots in the woods.
Happy hunting!
About the best simple explanation I have read. Nice job.
Tracker - you might want to edit the name of your post to "fixed crawl shooters" for anyone that tries using the search tool in the future looking for this conversation.
Also, Bellasm - I don't recommend setting up your fixed crawls or hold points around how a deer may or may not react.
That will always be a case-by-case basis for any hunter regardless of how they aim or shoot.
But I see your point ;)
Well actually the thread has gone in a different direction. Was looking for guys with experience on dealing with different broadhead point lengths from the Field point. Fixed crawl kind of took over. Hoping it might get back on track.
Sorry Tracker, you're right. This did get off course!
I guess I see things differently than most...
I've shot gap for the last several years and switch between FP and Broadheads without any issues...
Why?
For me I can't see the very end or tip... so I "aim" there's the dirty word off the end of the shaft... and I've even been known to put a thin wrap of white tape at the end for lowlight conditions ;-)
Jonathan
PS I think part of the reason I can't see the very tip is that I anchor pretty high on face already...
I understand this way of aiming. It is a form of sight aiming, the sight being the tip of the arrow. Why not just use a sight? Faster and easier it seems to me, and not sacrilege. :goldtooth:
Twigflicker
That's interesting the tape story. I have a couple arrows that i place a 1/8 inch wrap about 4" from the end so I can identify the arrows that have a judo point when using my side quiver. I noticed when I shot that arrow trying to use point on the stripe kept catching my eye causing me to shot high.
QuoteOriginally posted by Bisch:
QuoteOriginally posted by ChuckC:
so, what is a fixed crawl ?
and, are you then counting on the deer to drop only when shooting over 20 yards ? What if it doesn't ? What if the ten yard deer does ?
ChuckC
X2! I would like to hear a little more about this "fixed crawl" also???
Bisch [/b]
Here you go brutha.... check this video out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LthFu6fxjeM
Dumb question but shooting the fixed crawl or gap do you guys shoot both eyes open or one shut? Instinctively I shoot both eyes open but wouldn't mind trying something new
I squint my off eye... not fully shut...
Jonathan
Hey partner,
I use the tip of the shaft rather than the tip of the point. If that makes sense.
Yep, I use tip of the shaft also, with my crawl I can't see the tip of the head anyway. Also, when using the end of the shaft it doesn't matter if you are shooting field tips, broadheads, or blunts, the gaps remain the same.
I also use a 1/4 in piece of cap wrap at the tip of the shaft to help in low light conditions.
I have also been shooting a fixed crawl since January and am really enjoying the consistent accuracy and the help in making my form consistent.
I am setting my crawl with my broadhead point for a fixed 20yd crawl, field points hit about 1 inch lower since they are shorter. My tiller is even and use a springy rest.
Great explanation tracker12.
For those with a fixed crawl, 2 questions.
1. Got any pics of your setup showing the nocks on the string?
2. How far below your nick is your crawl located? I know it will vary, but I'm wondering if there is a range to expect.
Katman, wouldn't a shorter arrow go higher on the target ?
ChuckC
Pertaining to the original question at the extremely shallow angle you are viewing the arrow the only thing I see or look at is the radius of the arrow where it meets the back of the point. That's what I use to set my gap so it makes no difference whether I'm shooting a field point, 2 blade, 3 blade or judo point.
One difference is I use light colored shafts and I believe yours are black which may make a difference. Nevertheless you can still see a radius where it meets the point.
TaterHill
Not where I can take pics right now BUT on my setup my regular nock point is 3/4 in above level, I have a tied on nock point above and below the arrow nock. Then I have another tied in nock 5/8 in below my bottom arrow nock. When I shoot I place the top of my tab on the lowest tied in nock (the one 5/8 below) then draw and shoot. This gives me a point on of 20 yds and I just gap anything further or closer.
Hope this helps and in a few days I will post a pic.
QuoteOriginally posted by ChuckC:
Katman, wouldn't a shorter arrow go higher on the target ?
ChuckC
Correct Chuck, brainfart here, thanks.
Had to think about this a bit, for me the broadhead hits higher, maybe not being able to see the tip clearly causes me to use base of broadhead.