Hey wood lovers. looking to snag a test kit from surewood and was just wondering what spine range you would recommend. My bow currently shoots 400 spine carbons with an AMO length of 31, a standard insert, and 150 grain point. I can choose 3 different spines. I am hoping to keep a similar length and point weights around the 125-150 range. I know that carbon and wood have different dynamic spines so just wanted a recommendation. I have built a couple dozen woodies for a different bow but, I am far and away from an experienced builder. Thanks guys.
You'll get better feed back by giving bow,
Center cut, string material, draw length, and draw weight.
Warf bow, Cut well past center (not sure of the measurement, bear stick on rest, 12 strand d97, draw length 29 inches bow weight 50@29. Bare shafts beman ics hunters 400 spine perfectly at 30 yards. If it helps with the center shot measurement the string sits directly in the middle of these shafts.
Given your specs I'm saying 75/80. Jake I only shoot wood, and know basically nothing about carbon stiffness so I worked out your spine requirements based on your information-draw,#, string, riser cut etc.
For reference, a Beman ICS Hunter spines at 80 lbs. They are also 5/16" diameter.
I would go with a 80-84, 85-89 and 90-94 all tail tapered. I'd bet the 85-89 with 125 would shoot good.
Lol holy moly! Those would be some seriously heavy shafts! I was way off glad I asked!
Ask Snag
Jake,
You add 5 #s of spine for each inch over 28"-I've read that you also include the portion of the shaft that's in the point. As noted by others, you also need to increase spine for the string. You'll need to increase spine for any point weight over 125 (5 #s for each 25 grains). So, if you want 31" arrows with 150 gr points, you're looking at adding 20-25 #s to the spine as a starting point-that's 70-75 lbs. I also found a website that says you have add 5 #s to the spine for centershot and another 5 #s for each 1/8" past centershot. Then you have to consider adjustments for string type, form, release, etc. You can talk to Surewood about getting lighter weight shafts.
I will be buying their parallel hunters once I get a shaft I like. If I decide I enjoy the arrows I will probably buy one of the bulk backs as those are a great deal. I'll get with surewood and talk test packs. I will do the 4 spine pack and maybe start from 60-65 and move up depending on what he recommends. I am not broke but, still I don't want to waste 45 bucks on the test pack!
QuoteOriginally posted by Cavscout9753:
You'll get better feed back by giving bow,
Center cut, string material, draw length, and draw weight.
Need more info. Just going on what carbon shoots through a bow can be misleading. Woodies and carbons are too different horses. They ride differently. Don't want you to get bucked off! :thumbsup:
QuoteOriginally posted by Jakeemt:
Warf bow, Cut well past center (not sure of the measurement, bear stick on rest, 12 strand d97, draw length 29 inches bow weight 50@29. Bare shafts beman ics hunters 400 spine perfectly at 30 yards. If it helps with the center shot measurement the string sits directly in the middle of these shafts.
Ther are the specs man ;)
I would try calling one of the suppliers you plan on using and ask them. You can also try the 3Rivers Dynamic Spine calculater.
I like the tapered cut to length 5 and 11 degree tapers done by them. I ordered a dozen test pack, the most consistent dozen I have ever seen, they shot perfect out of five my bows so I got another dozen of the same. I have an argument going with my son about fletching them, I say the more spins the better, he disagrees. I like as much offset as possible, but still keep the quill seated flat. Am I wrong?
Jake: I think starting at 60# and going up will work. You'll find something in that range that will do the job. Personally, given your specs, I'm thinking 65-70 with a 125-150 grain head. Keep in mind that you can always build out the side plate a little if they're a little too soft. Ask your supplier for sure. BTW, just to establish some credibility, I've been shooting wood for about 50 years. Lots of it, in lots of different style and weight bows. Good luck.
When you find some good woods that work really well ditch the carbons.