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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Valkyrie on May 02, 2015, 02:35:00 PM
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Getting frustrated with tuning arrows and I have decided to start from scratch gain. I found that the cheap POC shafts I have been using are spined with such variation that I have maybe two out of three that are even close. Thus my issues with grouping over the last few weeks. Using carbons, I have no issues, they fly wonderfully.
So I ordered a sample set from Surewood. My goal is to get a good arrow for my SK. Its 45# @ 28" but I draw 30 1/2" so figure 51#(+/- 1/2 lb). Of course I will be using a full 32" arrow to start so I ordered their sample dozen shafts starting 50-55# spine and will see how it goes from there. The great part is I think some arrows in this sample will work out of a couple other bows so I am getting a bargain to sample spines for more than one bow.
Ultimately I want to kill a deer with an arrow I built from a raw shaft. Obviously this is the first baby step in a marathon but I have the mechanical know how to build the arrow along with the requisite tools. The rest is going to be the challenge.
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Have fun , I enjoy experimenting with archery .
It is fun if you don't get frustrated .
Enjoy . :archer2:
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You have a good start. May I suggest 55-60? Arrows with broadheads just work better for me if I spine up at least 5#. Your SK is cut to center so the extra spine should not be an issue. I use 60-65 spine for my 55# SK, cut to 29in.
I do use 55-60 for my field point arrows. My draw is 28.
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Originally posted by M60gunner:
You have a good start. May I suggest 55-60? Arrows with broadheads just work better for me if I spine up at least 5#. Your SK is cut to center so the extra spine should not be an issue. I use 60-65 spine for my 55# SK, cut to 29in.
I do use 55-60 for my field point arrows. My draw is 28.
Yep. I'm working on that spine right now. Got the ends tapered. Didn't have any issues so far they are laser beam straight too. Incredible quality shaft. Hopefully Monday or Tuesday I can give them a run through.
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I also have been very pleased with the quality of the Surewood shaft. I am shooting a full length 80 lb spine with a 29.5 draw and around 65 lbs. Using a 160 grain point. Arrows fly great!
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I'm finished with two spines of three arrows each. Tomorrow morning I will see how they do and start on the other arrows.
To really evaluate these how should I proceed. I really don't want to bare shaft test. Never had any luck with that.
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I fletch my test arrows with 4" feathers so I don't have too much correction. I want to see if the arrow isn't flying quite right. If you really want to get your arrows flying true, I recommend paper tuning with fletched shafts from about 6 ft. It will absolutely show which arrow is the best spine for you and your bow.
I ran the numbers thru my method and came up with 70-74 spine: 51 lb + 15 lb for 3" over 28, + 5-10 for center cut. If you don't have any shafts coming that stiff, let me know and I'll send you some test arrows. The issue with most test packs is that they are only spined in groups and not individually, so you don't know what spine you are actually shooting and which spine shoots best.
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I agree with Fletcher. The only thing is we are assuming you are shooting 125gr heads/pts...?
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Paper testing from Elite Arrows
http://elitearrows.com/proper-arrow/
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Originally posted by Hud:
Paper testing from Elite Arrows
http://elitearrows.com/proper-arrow/
X2
I keep my surewood test kit handy and ready at all times. Treat it like any other arrow building tool. Each bow/string /rest setup can be different enough to warrant testing. The charts and advice here will get you close and a test kit and paper tune with fletched shafts will give you the final dial in.
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mARK LIKES THIS woodies rock !
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Spent the last hour or so shooting the two batches of arrows I have fletched. Right out of the gate at 20 yards, the bow shot much better. Both sets of arrows grouped very well in a nice 8" circle with no fliers or wild flight. The bow is noticeably quieter. No clank on the riser and a very dull thud.
The 55-60 spine arrows are a little under-spined. They group well but I did a paper test and they tear right. The 60-65 are almost perfect. I think these may work just fine with some tweaking of brace height. Still going to work on the next spine up in the bundle and see how that works but I am out of fetching and have to wait for the order from 3rivers to arrive this week.
All in all this is an eye opener. These are the best arrows I have used. I am not fighting the bow to get my arrows to hit where I want. They land where I look and right out of the gate shot very well and the whole shot process is much easier and predictable. The SK is really nice bow, I was losing confidence in it but with a set of correct arrows, its a very very nice bow to shoot. I know the bundle will test fine for a couple of my other bows so I think I probably have a bunch ore shafts to order.
ETA: Yes, 125gr points.
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:thumbsup:
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What the heck, I fletched up the next spine with all the same color. Headed out to shoot them and see how it goes.
One thing to add. I needed to thicken up my string so the nocks stayed a little better and I usd a wrap or two of teflon tape. It was wide enough to cover my tied in nock also. My release is like butter. Interesting result. I might just tame this yet.
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Put sometime with 65-70lb spine arrows and they shot almost perfect. A very slight left tear in the paper. Slight being about 1/2". They shot more intuitively than any of the others so far. The bow is quiet and predictable and allows me to relax and not force the arrows. Instead they fly where I look. I think these are the shafts that will work with a little more fine tuning on brace height.
No how many do I need! Lol!
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Those Surewoods are tough too...super hunting arrows...
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I trimmed of an inch from the arrows. Very tight groups. Still a slight left tear but maybe a 1/2".
I am pretty much a novice at tuning recurves but I would say that I am right on the cusp for the next heavier spine. The rear of the field point draws right up to the forward edge of the riser though. They shoot but that extra inch seems a little more comfortable when there will be a razor blade attached to it this fall. How short does everyone normally cut their arrows anyway?
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I draw 30" and shoot 31" BOP wood arrows.
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Originally posted by Mud_Slide_Slim:
I draw 30" and shoot 31" BOP wood arrows.
I never had any issues with a broad head on a compound behind the front of the riser but i am trying to dial in the bow. I am gonna do my est to take a deer with it this fall, I want everything perfect as I can get it.
I am gonna step up to a 70-75lb spine. I have a small left tear about 1/2" or so consistently at about 8-10 feet through paper.
Now do I want the premium or hunter shafts. So many decisions.
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I am shooting the bow in my sig with 31" back of point douglas fir...75-80Lb spine and a 160grn point. At 6 feet from a sheet of paper, I get bullet holes. Shooting out to 20-25yds I am amazaed at how easy it is to get terrific arrow flight. My eyes were opened wide after running a series of test woodies with various spines.
I thought my carbons flew well, but there is no contest...I was astounded. Like you, as you stated, I was fighting my bow to get great flight. I am a big fan of paper testing now.
Bill-
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Slim, there is a tangible difference between wood and carbon my carbons do fly well but these arrows just make the how much more easy to shoot. Maybe it's confidence or maybe it's physics. I can hear a quieter how, it's more stable and predictable.
My practice technique is to call my shot like I would in rifle competition. I know when I make a good shot so much easier.
I ordered shafts and will get to work practicing for a deer.