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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: longrifle on March 25, 2015, 08:44:00 AM
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Anyone have or try one of these? I was thinking about buying one. What exactly does it do? Does it burnish the wood, increase spine ???
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I heat mine up with a propane torch and chuck the end of the shaft in a drill, then spin it through-in and back out. 3 Rivers says that it reduces spine. Yes, it does burnish the arrow shaft as you reduce the diameter 1/64". Caution: it can, and will, twist a shaft in half if you go too fast or push too hard.
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It compresses the shaft down one size, from 11/32 to 5/16, for example, and burnishes the wood in doing so. Just compresses the fibers near the outside of the shaft, not throughout the entire shaft.
Doesn't do much to spine, and, of course, the weight stays the same, but the result is the same spine and weight shaft in a smaller diameter.
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Charlie Jefferson used a compression block when he was making poplar shafts. The combo of using well seasoned wood with the compression block made very durable poplar shafts that stay straight.
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Pat that's what I'm going to use I'm thinking of making some homemade poplar shafts then running them through the block. I've been trying to find durable heavier shafting , so I thought I would make my own.
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I have one you can try if you want.
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I have one and cant find it ! If you get the heat just right it goes through easy if not you ruin the shaft. It has to be hot! You should put a field pt. or blunt on to chuck up in the drill. I wished I could find mine!!!!
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I built a three stage compression block 3/8-5/16 and it works, lots of work and lots of twisted shafts. The stock I used was 1" X 4" and takes a lot of heat and almost a two man operation. The shafts flew great and stayed straight but not worth the effort. 5/16 poplar dowels make almost as good of an arrow with lots less work, and are cheaper.
James
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Have never tried the 3Rivers block, but I do use one of my own making. Since it is only 5/8" in dia and 1" long it builds up and retains heat after running only one shaft through it. Arrows are compressed to 11/32 and come out great. The only time I have ruined a shaft is when I've gotten a little to aggressive with force. I run them through at a pretty high rpm and let them almost pull themselves through. It retains heat VERY well, almost to good! I've learned not to touch it until quite a while after using it.
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Well seasoned wood is important also. I think Charlie ricked his poplar for two years before running the shafting.
Also, the sapwood made better shafting than the heartwood although I liked the looks of the heartwood better.
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A bunch of years ago when I was in this game, I shot compressed and tapered cedars that I got from a supplier. They were great arrows. I wish they were available still.
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Thanks guys for all the info, yesterday I made my own from 3/4" bar stock and my drill press. I've got 4 different size holes. 23/64"-11/32"-21/64"-5/16" I have a Veritas 3/8" dowel maker and after the shafts come out of that I slowly run them through the burnishing/compressing/ reducing holes and so far they look great and come out smooth as glass. I've got about 45 poplar blanks to try. And no need to heat up the friction after about 20 seconds on the first shaft is enough.
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Thanks for the offer Jim, if this doesn't work I would like to try your block.
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I bought hundreds of 3/8" ramin dowels several years ago. I had a hard time compressing the shafts more than one size. There was not much problem going down to 23/64", however, I splintered quite a few trying to get them down to 11/32. I made my own shaft maker and reduce the 3/8" dowels down to 11/32, the exit hole of my shaft maker burnishes the shaft to a nice polish. My biggest problem is that there is so much variation with spine and weight that it's hard to get matched shafts.
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I think the holes in the 3 rivers block are tapered, I could only go down one size also .
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This is very interesting Gerald... any photos to share or are you done?
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Jim you can post the photos I sent you if you like it might help someone else who is interested in doing the same.
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Homemade poplar shafts, start with 1/2" square stock
(http://i.imgur.com/9td8XFX.jpg)
Then my 3/8" Veritas dowel maker
(http://i.imgur.com/dVEFvcV.jpg)
Then my homemade compression / burnisher/ reduction block. With a 23/64"-11/32"-21/64"-5/16" holes
(http://i.imgur.com/qMO9dF0.jpg)
Finished shafts at 11/32"Only went down 2 sizes they all weigh around 440 gr
(http://i.imgur.com/V5kzaoU.jpg)
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James I have that same dowel maker, I shimmed my blade a little to get the shafts smaller.
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Great idea Jim.