I shoot split finger. I find a 3/4"-7/8" nock point often works best for me (depending on the bow).
Anybody else use nocking points this high with split finger shooting?
I shoot split and most of my bows have around a 1/2" nocking point.But my A&H ACS likes a 5/8" nocking point.
I shoot split, and my nocking point runs the same as yours, with most being 5/8".
I usually start at 3/4 and tune it.. Seems i'm usually 5/8 to 3/4.
Mine used to be that high, but I think generally from raising it to try and compensate for arrows that were not tuned very good.
I recently used Stu Miller's calculator and it allowed me to lower my nock point and get better flight.
Yes, I have for years!
I think it has to do with how YOU release it's all up to you.
I'm old fashioned...the only bow I need a higher nocking point is my 50" Browning Cobra.
I have no idea how high my points are. I snap the arrow on the string, lay it flat on the rest, then slowly move the arrow up and I eyeball the angle the arrow rises up off the shelf.
After all these years I just know at the "proper angle" I'm good. Never had any flight problems. I learned this from an old timer back in the early 70's.
YUP. 5/8" ish
mine run at 3/4"
Yeah, Joe Skipp, that's how I set my nock, also!
It is the combination of the bow and how you shoot it. I have one recurve that tunes best at 5/16 and another that tunes at 1/2.
5\\8" on all our bows, but I don't think I could shoot the difference between 1/2" and 3/4"
Yep, about 3/4" for me. Arrows fly great.
3/4" for me!
Bisch
Thanks for all the replies
I shoot half inch. Tried higher. Just shoot better at 1/2" and paper tuning agrees with this height.
I shoot self bows 98% of the time and for me a high nock point on split finger usually means a stiff arrow will fly better. But If I drop 5# of spine I can nock just a fuzz above 90 degrees.
5/8 on both my Widders.
Split, usually 5/8" with carbon, higher with fat woodies. Are you shooting wood arrows?
Yes, I am shooting wood arrows.
Most of my bows are 1/2" , I have one that is 9/16" and I have a long bow that is 3/16" .
That long bow baffles me but it shoots like a lazer .
I always get confused by nocking point heights, it seems some are talking about under the arrow and some are talking about above the arrow. Above the arrow changes with arrow width, nock styles and whether or not the arrow is tapered.
Dead square from the string to the highest point on the shelf is O. You measure from there to the nock point. Actual center of the nock is lower so if you measure from O to the nock and get 5/8 your actual center of arrow is probably 1/2 inch or there abouts.
I square and go up about a quarter inch and set my nock . Usually its pretty close for me but I do not shoot a really deep hook and my top finger is not as deep as my bottom two. Always shot that way and It would really mess with me to change that now.
God bless, Steve
I shoot split and 5/8" works best for me.
9/16 on all of my bows.
5/8 for me. I get a little too much feather contact and pick up a waggle if I go lower. Black Widow PCH.
Tedd
I had a Bear grizzly that liked 3/4
like you said in your original post.... it "depends on the bow."..... it also depends on where the pressure point on your grip is being applied and how well balanced the limbs are.... you'll also find a wide variety of shelf height and grip locations on different bows.....
I'm glad Kirk mentioned limb balance, so I can ask this without hi-jacking the thread. Does tiller effect nock point? If the same person owned two similar bows, but one has an even tiller, and the other has maybe a 1/4" positive tiller, would say the positive tillered bow end up with a lower nock point?
Usually never that high. I shoot what tunes best. I don't just choose. What ever my bare shaft arrow tells me that's what I do.
Honestly. I think most grad guys are better off with a rest. But that's too untraditional for most to wrap there heads around so they won't do it.
That will give better flight.
split- 5/8
Yes
i do,
My Brack. likes 5/8