What do I do if my arrows are flying perfectly straight, but hitting about 5" to the left(bare shafting)?
Had to adjust the a bit to get the arrows to fly straight
I tend to shoot high with elevated rest at first.
If your tuning is correct on both you should not have any problems what so ever. I swap between a Qarbon Nano and a Blacktail all the time.
My only bows with an elevated rest are a couple of my metal riser ILF bows.I don't have an problem with switching from an elevated rest to my R/D longbows,Hill's and my wood riser recurves which I shoot them off the shelf.I shoot split finger.I feel if you have good form and well matched arrows you can shoot any bow well.
I shoot both and have no real issue switching from one to the other. The only real way to know is to try it.
Why do I not get to comment if I want to say something you don't want to hear ?
ChuckC
I can't see any real issues. In both cases you anchor the same and the basic sight picture is the same regarding arrow location and target.
ChuckC
I can shoot equally bad with both ... :bigsmyl: I use a bear weather rest on some of my bows and shelf on others, the elevated rest is more forgiving and gets the arrow closer to my eye, I shoot split. Not a big deal switching from one to the other.
QuoteOriginally posted by ChuckC:
Why do I not get to comment if I want to say something you don't want to hear ?
ChuckC
Not that you don't get to, just stating that I would prefer not to hear your opinion on a matter that was not what my question was about.
Any tips to properly tuning an elevated rest? For instance, if it is showing stiff? If it's showing weak?
The higher rest will take the arrow father away from your bow hand. This change would effect a more instinctive type shooter than a gaper or point on style shooter. I actually shoot my Bear Kodiak better with the weather rest. I think it just helps on a bad release.
I think so too!
Thanks for all the help so far fellas. Still wondering about adjusting the rest if anyone has any incite..
For me the difference between off the shelf and an elevated rest is a non-issue, no matter if I'm shooting instinctive or not. Tuning is no different between the two setups.
We have used them on various bows over the years. With the vertical feather rests, they will react differently with a heavy narrow carbons than with a lighter and fatter wood arrow. It is possible to compress them when shoot split and they will compress more with a heavy narrow arrow. The metal Hoyt works really nice with bows cut past center, but with aluminum arrows that are a bit dirty they can make noise on the draw. If you are shooting arrows that are on the verge of being too stiff an elevated rest can help. If you shoot three under the distance that nock has to be raised may be less. I helped a fellow tune his recurve for three under, the bottom string nocking point ended up being just 3/16" above the feather rest. If one gives some acknowledgement to the arrow position in ones sight picture it makes very little difference for aiming, other than you may get cleaner arrow flight and more arrow speed.
I have experienced minimal differences.
Once my bow/arrow are tuned, I have no issue with either. :thumbsup:
Ok. I have never messed with an elevated rest, so sorry if my questions are simple. Lol.
Does the elevated rest change the spine? By putting the rest in, does it weaken/stiffen the spine? Just thinking about the old trick of adding something between riser and strike plate.
I just finding my recurves with elevated rests easier to tune to my arrows.
If you don't change center shot you should not effect spine.
In some cases a stiff arrow can do a hard slide on the bow shelf, a flexible rest can soften this friction sometimes. Generally if an arrow is right in the wheel house, they will fly close to the same, but if the shooter throws something into the release that can cause a bad shot, the flexible rest can absorb some of the difference.
Latest results.. I am stumped to say the least.. First I was trying to bare shaft... I had the time of my life. I could choose one of 2 things..
1. Have it fly like a dart and hit 6" to the left(stiff).
2. Use the rest as a "steering wheel" and adjust it inward until all my arrows were hitting dead center but angles hard left(weak).
I then gave up on bare shafting and fletched an arrow. Same story. I could paper tune it and get it shooting 6" left or I could adjust it to the middle and it show weak.
I am shooting a #45 bow with a full length 35/55 with a 145 grain tip. I draw to 28.5".
I would think your a little weak with that full length shaft. Since Ive started shooting off an elevated rest I've found for my own shooting I've required a little stiffer spine than shooting off the shelf. I get better arrow flight and it's much more forgiving of a sloppy release.
I can't help you but, my bow is 62", 45@28 I pull 28.5" too. My arrows are GT 3555 cut 30" b.o.p and I'm using a 100gr field tip. They fly straight and true.
I am shooting off a Super T-300 rest with a shorty plunger.
(http://i1161.photobucket.com/albums/q506/ORShooter1/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-02/89f440ee-354c-4075-b7a8-e6a174f11bb9_zpsdblmdvrz.jpg) (http://s1161.photobucket.com/user/ORShooter1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-02/89f440ee-354c-4075-b7a8-e6a174f11bb9_zpsdblmdvrz.jpg.html)
I have found that an elevated rest makes me shoot to the left at first also. You might try a skinnier shaft or shaving the strike plate back. The increased distance from the riser throws my instinctive shooting way off and I almost always shoot left.
I shoot a bear weather rest on a Predator Hunter 46 @ 28. I draw 27-27.5. Here are a few thing I picked up from this site when I switch to the elevated rest. I take all the adhesive back off the rest and the put on the thinnest contact cement tape possible. It's made by DAP. On a weather rest there is also a slight bump out on the rest itself I shave that off. This helps to keep the shaft as close to the side of the riser as possible. I also cut about 1/8-1/4 off the bottom of the rest and rubber spring arm. This will keep the arrow close to the shelf but not on the shelf. I'm an aluminum guy I shoot 2016s cut to 29.5 inches with 145 tips.
ttt
Hey Daniel,
I did a write up awhile back about the Bear Weather Rests. Like Pete said, the first thing I do is to remove the adhesive backing that comes with the rest, simply because it's too thick. Once removed I trim the bottom of the rest and the arm up to the B in Bear. I also take either a light dremmel or a buffing wheel and remove the hump in the middle of the rest, this removal brings my arrow closer to center. I like to use a think piece of felt where my arrow meets the riser side plate. This just helps with wear over time.
I than re-apply an adhesive my buddy Allen told me about. It's call "Peal n Stick" and you can pick it up at Michael's art supply store.
As you can see I cover the shelf in Velcro and than mount the rest right on top of the Velcro keeping it fairly close to my hand.
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f281/Wyoming1/IMG_0880_zpskwtaxjaj.jpg) (http://s49.photobucket.com/user/Wyoming1/media/IMG_0880_zpskwtaxjaj.jpg.html)
Hey Tim, that the exact set up I use. Minus the felt. I wonder if I got it from you post? Great set up.