Trad Gang

I like to make my own things when I can.  I tie my own flies, I've built a bunch of fishing rods that I've used alot, and although I've only gotten about 200 arrows out of the best one, sometimes I try to build my own bow.  That being said, I'd like to build my own strings.  Yesterday I build a jig for a flemish twist string.   I ordered some b50, and while I'm waiting for it I've been making practice strings out of some thin cotton string that has been sitting around for so long I forgot what it was ever for.  These are my first 3.  Let me know how it looks.  Thanks.
http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag239/loader2008/103_1357_zps942f52fd.jpg

Photobucket issues.
 (http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag239/loader2008/103_1360_zps372bea06.jpg) (http://s1369.photobucket.com/user/loader2008/media/103_1360_zps372bea06.jpg.html)

The ends look like a Flemish twist???
Its all about how the individual strands lay on one another along its length. you'll need to wait for your Dacron to really see.
Im sure you'll be fine.

First (top) loop.  A bit sloppy.  The twist isn't tight at all, but understandable for the first attempt.

Second (middle) loop.  Looks like you didn't separate the bundles and splice them together once you finished the loop?  Like the machine-made "Flemish" strings.  Not a true Flemish, but I reckon it works.  Never tried it myself.

Third (bottom).  Getting better--tighter twists in the loops, although you got a bit inconsistent right after the loop.

Like shooting a bow, consistency is the key.

With a little practice and good instructions I'm sure you will do fine.

Chad

Thanks for the input.  I am thinking pre-waxed dacron will be easier to work with than my cotton string.

I would recommend the video "how to build a great bowstring".

have you tried making one a certain length? I would recommend trying to make on for a bow you have and see how accurate you are on length. that's the problem I have with my string jig. good luck.

X2

http://www.recurves.com/dvds.html

That DVD really helped me!

I had an old string that was in pretty bad shape in my archery box.  I cut the ragged leop end off and took it apart, back to 2 bundles.  I re-twisted it.  Here are my efforts, critiques appreciated. Thanks
 (http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag239/loader2008/103_1361_zps5d8366cb.jpg) (http://s1369.photobucket.com/user/loader2008/media/103_1361_zps5d8366cb.jpg.html)

 (http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag239/loader2008/103_1362_zps381164b7.jpg) (http://s1369.photobucket.com/user/loader2008/media/103_1362_zps381164b7.jpg.html)

As best I can tell (the material itself is a bit ragged) the loops look much better, and the twist more consistent.

The string needs back-twist before you start the second loop, and the ends need to taper off as they are "married" back into the string.  You can do this by staggering the ends before you start, or by dropping a strand or two every twist as you near the end.

Thanks for the tips.  My material will be here mid-week.  I should have time to twist up a string and when I do I'll post pictures. How much offset between the bundles should there be?

Stagger the ends in both bundles, 1/4" or less each strand.

I'll try to post a picture later.  The new material is pretty easy to work with.  Does the length of the spliced section matter?  For instance, I built a string and I started twisting the first loop with 8" ends.  I twisted the top loop with 11" ends to make the string the correct length. Any advice appreciated.

It matters to a degree--both functionally, and how it looks.  I haven't tested, but I like the taper to start at no less than 3" into the string, although it looks better with more.

Brent, those are numbers to start with, everyone twist a little different! The medium, minimal amount of twists in the body of the overall string is what you strive for.

The less amount means less weight, less waste, which allows the material to work at its maximum strength!

Can a difference in the splice length affect the string structurally?

Very little.