Is paper tuning as good as bare shaft?
It depends on who you ask, I would say no. Paper tuning is done with fletching on your arrow, which stabilizes your arrow. Bare shaft tuning is done without the aid of fletching. A properly tuned bare shaft doesn't need the aid of fletching. It flies straight with or without fletching. Without bare shaft tuning a fletched arrow can hide flaws with your setup. IMHO there's nothing wrong with skipping the bare shaft tune and just fletch then paper tune. I am no expert on the subject hopefully someone more qualified than me will chime in
I do both. I start by paper tuning with a bare shaft and the tip,weight I want to use I do put my wrap on too so the weight is close to what I'm going to be using feathers weigh next to nothing I start with a full length shaft and trim a little at a time until I get a perfect bullet hole from 3 distances out to ten yds. I then double check it with a fletched shaft. Then I'll go out side and shoot 2 fletched and 2 bare shafts. They are usually right on I if anything I may have to tweek my brace hieght a little. I then shoot a BH tipped fletched arrow if all is good I cut my shafts and fletch em all up.
Not trying to be a smart butt or argumentative, but, out of ignorance, I have a question about the value or need to bare shaft tune. If, with fletching in place,the arrow flies perfectly due to the stabilization of the feathers what is the gain of the perfection of bare shafting? Perhaps the "work" the feathers do to stabilize the arrow draws off energy, but I have not heard this stated before. Is that a factor?
As for paper tuning, what distance is generally recommended for doing it? It would seem that distance would be a significant consideration due to the archer's paradox effect. I'm glad bear mike brought this up, as I have wondered about this also.
I think people just like to mess with stuff. If an arrow flies like a dart, it will fly like a dart with a good broad head as well. I don't bare shaft or paper tune any of my bows and they're all shooting lasers.
I find paper tuning to very effective in tuning. It needs to be done close, like six feet, but gives a clear picture of what the arrow is doing after it leaves the bow but before the fletch has had a chance to try to straighten flight. Arrows that looked to be flying perfectly I learned weren't as good as I thought and shooting tuned arrows definitely helped my shooting, esp with broadheads.
One reason I like to bare shaft test my setups is because I hunt in the rain. If the arrow shoots fine without feathers, wet ones won't deviate.
I agree that you can't go by just watching the arrow flight. Found that out the hard way.
I like using the same steps as Mr.fingers, works great. The only thing I'll add, if your tuning outdoors it must be dead calm to get true bare shaft or paper results.
QuoteOriginally posted by RLA:
I like using the same steps as Mr.fingers, works great. The only thing I'll add, if your tuning outdoors it must be dead calm to get true bare shaft or paper results.
Yup I do all my paper tuning in the basement. Start at about 3 feet. From my tuning rack and step back to about 30 feet.
Tim
I have found that bare shaft tuning (I've never used paper tuning) is more important when you are shooting 3 blade heads - especially big ones like snuffers. They do not fly well if tuning is deficient. Two blade heads are not near as finicky.
Paper tuning with a bare shaft or at close range really won't tell you much as the arrow hasn't stabilized. It is more accurate if you shoot a bit further away so the arrow has stabilized.
I shoot tree sharks and they have always flown exactly the same as my field points. I don't know about any others.
QuoteI have a question about the value or need to bare shaft tune. If, with fletching in place,the arrow flies perfectly due to the stabilization of the feathers what is the gain of the perfection of bare shafting?
It is my experience that bare shaft tuned arrows that fly perfectly, are much less sensitive to flaws in form (bad release, string/bow torque). As others have mentioned feathers will hide a great deal of flight issues. Just my two cents.
Jake
I really believe in bareshaft tuning for a few reasons---not looking for an argument here--this is just my experience.
If your bareshaft flies and hits near perfect you will likely have good performance with broadheads--even if your feathers get wet.
I've seen guys shoot a fletched shaft with field points that had a very obvious kick indicating that it was too stiff or maybe too weak---they still flew where the guy was looking, but I'm not sure they would do the same with a broadhead.
Getting an arrow well in tune will greatly enhance your performance on game---if the arrow is flying straight energy will be maximized and you should have much better penetration. If your arrow strikes the target at an angle you have lost energy where you need it and would have less penetration.
Finally---I just enjoy tinkering and want to eliminate equipment performance issues so that all that is left to mess up (and I do my share of it) is me.
I have papertuned afterwards and it did show me that my bow liked cock feather in better than other orientations. I am not really sure though how papertuning longbows with shallow shelves tells you much other than what oriention the shaft is at a certain distance when shooting very close (i.e. 6 feet as some guys recommend). The arrow is still going through paradox at that distance and the fletching has not yet corrected. It may show one way at 6 feet and another at 10 feet until you get a little further away. When I posted on this issue on another site I was corrected by a poster claiming that there was no such thing as paradox...High speed video shows the paradox very well as pretty significant at closer distances. Guess I am really trying to say I'm not sure how much papertuning will tell me at very close ranges and that bareshafting has been of more use to me---I'm still learning and that may change.
I always bare shaft tune my setup. I have found that a well tuned arrow that has been bare shaft tuned will usually leave bullet holes when paper tuning.
Sometimes you can get lucky with your broadheads, and they will hit like your field points. Always verify that they shoot the same no matter which method of tuning that you end up trying. True broadhead flight is what most of us are after anyways. Remember a perfect tuned arrows is way more forgiving. :archer:
Thank you guys for all the replies
Mike
So a question on the tuning process, I've seen all the little diagrams related to paper tuning and what info each kind of tear gives you. With bare shaft tuning what am I looking for? Am I just trying my best to see what my arrow is doing upon release? What are the indicators for weak spine? Stiff spine? Nock placement?
I go for a "bullet hole" with ragged edges caused by the feathers. I know some say slightly up left or right.
I do the nock locator first (vertical deviations from the bullet hole). Then I do the side tears. I have to admit it is more difficult to tune a recurve off a shelf than my experience with highly adjustable arrow rests.
It pays to start with an arrow, fletch, & point set up that is well-matched to begin with.
I have adjusted shaft length some and it is quite effective but I don't like it. I want my arrows (due to my sight picture) to be the same length from bow to bow which is 27" (draw length of 26").
To fix right and left tears I experiment with point weights. If that doesn't get it done I go for side plate thickness adjustments.
By the way, I get the brace ht set and silencers for quiet shooting before I do any of this. So, I don't adjust brace ht for fine tuning (I know some do and I have no doubt it is useful but I have little use for a perfectly tuned, noisy bow.)
On a couple of bows I had trouble with, I tried different strand count strings (skinny 8's and heavier 12-16's).
Better have consistent form before interpreting the hole.
Paper tuning has worked flawlessly for me. I have yet to find a 150gr BH that will not fly great on my arrow.
Bisch