My draw length for a compound has always been 26.5" to 27" depending on brand. From the measurements I have taken or my buddy taken I come up with 27-27.5...I draw an arrow to my anchor and buddy marks it where the arrow meets the far end of the shelf away from me. Or I use a piece of square cardboard punched through an arrow and draw to my anchor and when the shelf hits the cardboard it stops when I anchor. reads 27". I just don't think my could be that long. Or could it?
Briefly. . It is a different ball game. Don't compare.
CHuckC
Sounds like you're measuring correctly and assuming that you should be a shorter draw length than the cpound... Lot's of wheel shooters shoot with a short draw and bent elbow so I'm not surprised. As you gain experience and develop your form you'll probably notice your draw length will increase a bit more.
I was assuming it would be way shorter.
It is what it is.
with the compound, were you drawing to the same anchor ? Were you using a loop on the string ? Were you using a release ? Similar yes, but Lots different.
ChuckC
It is what it is. Don't over think it and just move forward with what you have.
I know, I'm an overthinker at times too, but you've done the correct thing by figuring out your draw length for your bow, now move forward and forget about the compound dayz.
From what I have taken the draw length can determine arrow spine, but I don't know how much it affects it. I try not to over think it. Yes Chuck, I shot with a D loop, release and anchored with a kisser in the corner of my mouth. I just want to make sure that I can get all the variables that i can control in check as I start this tuning process. One thing I have learned, tuning is difficult because unlike the compound, it is very hard for me to repeat the exact same things every shot. But, that's what makes this so interesting and fun. I do not get discouraged, I embrace this.
The "is what it is" response is right on, assuming you are correctly drawing. As ChuckC points out the arrow length (not draw length) is impacted by the things between the nock and anchor (release, D-loop), etc) and how long past the back of the bow shelf you want the arrow to extend.
No matter LB, Curve, or Compound, full draw is full draw. The critical reference points are the position of your drawing arm elbow at full draw and THEN where the arrow intersects the "back" of the bow shelf (more precisely, 1.75" from the grip's pivot point).
I don't want to get into this much because the shooter's forum is the place for this but....
I've sent you a PM regarding an illustration I can e-mail you.
I always assumed mine would be shorter on a trad bow as well...but I draw 27" on both a compound and a longbow.
What difference does it make? ....It doesn't really... Now the one that will blow your mind is how much your draw length changes with different shooting styles...
With an open stance, snap shooting , or swing draw shooting style like Fred Asbell you'll have a shorter draw length than you will with a vertical bow target stance..... Using a target stance and good body alignment, you learn to use back tension and good follow though.... With this shooting style you will most likely increase your draw length even more......
What ever style you chose is up to you.... consistency and practice is the key.
QuoteOriginally posted by Mike Vines:
It is what it is. Don't over think it and just move forward with what you have
X2....What "was" is pretty much unrelated to your new path. Reminds me of my transition....or is it transformation?
Im fine with whatever it is. I was totally expecting it to be at least an 1" shorter than my compound draw. This has been a real learning time for the past 6 weeks. Each day I grow more and more. I set a goal, I commit, and i achieve. My goal? Is to be the most efficient recurve hunter that I can be come Oct. My range may only be 5-10 yards, but by God, I want to be the best 5-10 yd shot I can be when I hit the woods.
Your compounds riser was most likely much closer to you than your trad bows.
I sent you an e-mail with a diagram and explanation.
With the bow arm extended but unlocked the bow shelf will be the same distance from you no matter the geometry of the riser.
In fact, you can determine your draw length with a loop of string as long as you add 1.75" to the loop for the width of the bow shelf (from grip throat to back of bow shelf).
I did not get an email or PM.
Here you go landon.
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u301/kirkll/Drawings/Drawlength.gif) (http://s171.photobucket.com/user/kirkll/media/Drawings/Drawlength.gif.html)
gotcha! thanks!
Kirk sent you the bow part of the equation, I sent email for the archer part.
QuoteOriginally posted by Kirkll:
With an open stance, snap shooting , or swing draw shooting style like Fred Asbell you'll have a shorter draw length than you will with a vertical bow target stance.....
FALSE !!!!
Kirk doesn't need me to interpret him but I think what he might have meant; if the archer modifies the waist up part of his form to do the things he talks about (stance, snap, and swing), one might shorten their draw length.
If one considers the archer as two parts, sort of like a camera tripod. If the top half maintains the archer's full draw (arm positions) then the draw length won't change if one varies his footing, releases immediately upon reaching anchor (snap), or moves both arms while coming to full draw.
However, it is difficult for many to do any of those things without impacting arm/shoulder positions.
I guess certain style grips could alter draw length as well? Depth of a grip, or thickness?
Could it be that the compound riser had over draw whereas most likely your trad bow doesn't?
It had a QAD rest which is sort of like an over draw...my arrows were only 26 inches!
QuoteOriginally posted by VA Elite:
I guess certain style grips could alter draw length as well? Depth of a grip, or thickness?
I suppose an extreme high wrist grip could extend your draw length a bit over a medium wrist angle, and even a bit more from a straight grip heeling down to a high wrist....
I think i better reword my last post a bit. Thanks Roy... You picked up my meaning, but i didn't word it very well..
This whole learning process we go though to establish consistency in archery takes a bit of time.... There are different philosophies out there on which technique or shooting style is most proficient.... But proper alignment is critical in all of them. Terry's Form clock is a perfect example....... Once you've had time to get your upper body alignment dialed in with a good solid anchor.... Your stance or feet placement doesn't make a bit of difference in draw length.
Shooting up or down hill from a tree bending at the waist.... or even on the ground in a crouch, or on your knees won't effect your draw length either if your alignment is good.
But.... it ain't easy to do just starting out. Most beginners will short draw with an open stance. I've been shooting for a lot of years and I still catch myself short drawing when shooting areal targets, or moving targets....
Any of us, even those of us who have been shooting a long time, could change our draw length by an inch (+ or -) by changing our alignment, the extension of our bow arm, or the rotation of our string arm elbow. The goal is to establish a repeatable draw length that will accurately put an arrow in the same spot time after time, which is different from the maximum draw length you could possibly achieve by stretching everything to the max. OTOH, as you progress, you will probably find ways to extend a little more without sacrificing the accuracy of your shot.
As a beginning traditional archer, you should expect that your draw length will change over time, and not worry about it.
This thread really got me thinking...
So much good information shared here. I shot fingers on compounds for a long time... then slowly migrated to a release, which changed my arrow length if not my draw length.
When I came "back" to trad (was all there was when I started in my late teens) I found a solid anchor and it seemed to work for years...then all the fuss over "back tension" came about and I started working toward that...walla... draw "grew"(?)an inch!
I tend to get excited in the presence of game and "over-draw" a bit, then settle into my true anchor point...so I leave my arrows the way old timers suggested back in Neanderthal times of an INCH longer than draw so I don't slip a BH up over the shelf when I get jazzed and before I settle into my anchor...
Thing that seems to stick out here, is that you will likely NOT Have one draw length throughout your life... but change as you modify and develop better form as you become more advanced.
Relax. You'll need/want new arrows along the way so if your length changes, only your wallet will know! :)
I leave my arrows at least 2 " past the riser!!