I used to shoot woodies exclusively and did my tapering work (nock and broadhead) on a Woodchuck power unit. I sold it and the ordered my shafts cut-to-length and pre-tapered. Now as I ponder shooting some woods again I have a question or two:
Is there a simple twist-style taper cutter on the market which produces smooth and accurate tapers reliably?
Has anyone tested the finished tapers to verify they are as accurate as a grinder can produce?
This is the best I have used. It does really well on the soft woods i.e. cedar and spruce - http://www.kustomkingarchery.com/Bearpaw-Deluxe-Taper-Tool/productinfo/4737/
The guys at Surewood grind the safts to order and I do think it produces a more "true" taper.
I have started sorting my tapered shafts and color code them based on the amount and direction of offset. I have a set that I can shoot a bit to the left or right, as needed and a few that I can shoot around corners now !
ChuckC
Chuck! :p
Keven: Haven't tried any of the most recent cutters, but I could never get as reliably accurate a cut out of the older ones as I could with a sanding disc and jig, particularly with woods like Doug fir where the summer and winter growth varies so much in hardness. Might just need to pony up for another Woodchuck. Of course, can make your own jigs if you have a table saw or some other type of power sander.
I recently got the tru taper V2 tool and find it to be excellent. Prior to that I was using an angle jig on a Rigid oscillating belt. Both work good, but the V2 is much quicker and convenient.
That bear paw unit looks good too.
The V2 from 3RA looked good, plus I know they would back it up.
I don't want to buy a Woodchuck, simply because it will sit for 360+ days every year. I've thought about one of the table-top belt/disc combo sanders and just create my own jig. That way I'd still have the functionality of the sander for other work and projects.
I used the Woodchuck for years, but also got more crooked tapers from it than I could explain. Someone suggested that perhaps the shafts where I was getting crooked tapers were out of round to start with. That's a novel idea.
Finally, I went the opposite direction that you want to go and bought a Tim's taper tool combined with a Ryobi combination disk and belt sander. It will probably sit for long periods of time in between uses too, but what the heck, I've got a big garage and it is fun to do my own shaft tapers as well as nock and point tapers. Once I figured out the settings, all the tapers I've done on it seem to be true. The only problem with it is that I went through a lot of wood and time getting it set up to do 11/32" shafts, so my inclination is to leave it on that setting rather than fool around changing it to work on 5/16" and 23/64" shafts too.
Unless you particularly enjoy experimenting around with such things, Tim's tool might be a better answer than trying to invent your own, since you might end up with higher cost, and certainly a lot more time invested in the project, than you would if you just bought his. It is fairly easy to take Tim's tool off the sander if you want to use it for other purposes.
Out of round shafts (i.e. oval) do make for some bad tapers on a woodchuck. Also, shafts must be straightened before tapering. Having said that, I have a woodchuck and am finally getting used to it. The disc needs to be attached firmly and completely. After going to double sided carpet tape on the sanding discs I have had much better tapers.
I also have a Tru-center V2. It also does great tapers on most woods. Douglas fir, not the best.
I have a couple of the old Tru-Center tools. I did not have some of the issues others have had with them. Yes, setting the blade just right is a pain but I have mine set to undercut a little. It makes for a flush fit with the point. I also have the rig from the Renfroes that allows me to use a drill motor. Makes cutting the tapers in cedar and fir easy and leaves a smooth cut.
I also have the Woodchuck but it is sitting not being used except once in great while. I last used it to taper some bamboo shafts. Tru-Center would not work for me on bamboo.
I have a woodchuck, probably 20 years old, if your shafts are not straight or out of round the tapers are not perfect, but they are not going to be on any other system either.
All I have done to mine is replace the sanding discs, still working fine and I have done literally more than a thousand + shafts.
I have a disk sander in the shop that I made jigs for. Works perfect. The next best thing may be Gary Renfros's new taper jig. He had it at K zoo. It chucked up in a drill and gave a really nice taper in about half a second.
I use the newer V2 taper tool, it works great for me. A improvement over the older model by a long shot. I shoot surewood shafts and make 2 - 3 dozen a year sometimes more. I keep spare blades on hand also.
I too use the V2 taper tool from 3 Rivers. It is the best hand held taper tool I have ever used. I use it on Douglas Fir and it has done a good job. The point taper isn't as smooth as you would get with cedar shafts but it's better than OK.
I use the V2 with great results. The only thing I'd change (actually add) is knurling. It has a smooth body that is hard to grip. I guess I could wear nitrile gloves to get that extra grip.
I used to use the Tru taper tool also and had good luck with it, but since I got my woodchuck that's all I use. I do a few dozen arrows a year so it is worth it.
I honestly cannot remember where I got mine but I have one of the following jigs for use on a disc sander or table saw.
homebru
(http://www.archers-review.com/images/88.jpg)
Great info guys...appreciated. I intend to do some experimentation with wood shafting in terms of spine. I want to cut and taper repeatedly as I shoot and evaluate a range of shafts for best flight. Since I'm not (yet) convinced I'll return to woodies, I'm going the easy route on taper tools at first. The V2 will do the job it seems. If I decide to continue on and build many more wood arrows I might well end up with a taper jig (like a Tim's) and use my table saw.
I made something similar to that block Homebru shows. It is a little bigger.
I cut the groove in it and then marked the board so that I achieved 5 (or 11) degrees taper.
I then cut a shim board that fit into the groove of the disk sander platform, and glued it to the above using wood glue and several thin pieces of shim to set a distance from the sanding surface.
I coulda done it like HB and had both on one, but that woulda taken brains and planning, so I made two... one for each taper, and they work well.
Try gluing on a piece, like a popsicle stick, across the end to act as a stop for the shaft, so you get the same length each time.
ChuckC
QuoteOriginally posted by Homebru:
I honestly cannot remember where I got mine but I have one of the following jigs for use on a disc sander or table saw.
homebru
(http://www.archers-review.com/images/88.jpg)
I have that same one and it works well on the rigid. Just too much trouble to carry the sander out to the shop (driveway :) ). Got it at RMSG. think 3Rivers has them too.
Do you have to adjust the blades in the V2 or the Bearpaw and is there blades and setting on both ends?
Tru Center is double ended. One does nocks, one does point tapers
I use a Tru-Center V2 Taper Tool. Works really well. I also use the jig that 3River sells with my belt sander when I have a bunch of arrows to build. Brian
(http://i899.photobucket.com/albums/ac194/stiknstringer/DSC02159.jpg) (http://s899.photobucket.com/user/stiknstringer/media/DSC02159.jpg.html) I use the old Horizon which does a great job but I don't think they're made anymore.