I got back my aluminum shafts from being fletched today and the first thing I obviously did was shoot them. I was really pleased with the fletch job and how well these shoot from my longbow. I had shot these bare shaft and as some may know I got very good results. They are like darts fletched! I've never shot aluminum before and I don't know why because I love the way they shoot and how hard they hit. I do need to get more glue on nocks tho I split one off today during my best group of 3. Here's some pics I snapped of the fletch job.
(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j30/sheepdogreno/Mobile%20Uploads/20150203_154604_resized_zps568c5af3.jpg) (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/sheepdogreno/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150203_154604_resized_zps568c5af3.jpg.html)
(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j30/sheepdogreno/Mobile%20Uploads/20150203_154610_resized_zpsc401380e.jpg) (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/sheepdogreno/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150203_154610_resized_zpsc401380e.jpg.html) (http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j30/sheepdogreno/Mobile%20Uploads/20150203_154703_resized_zps663dbf8f.jpg) (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/sheepdogreno/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150203_154703_resized_zps663dbf8f.jpg.html)
I like aluminums myself....very consistent and easy to work with and tune with a simple pipe cutter. Plus they're heavy and cheap.
Only shoot aluminum. Very easy to tune. Different spines seam to work over a wide range of bow weights.
I tried the carbon thing for a year, didn't care for them. I like my 1918's, 2018's & 2020's. Especially the old Autumn Orange shafts.
I know aluminum is more likely to be bent up and such but I got these on clearance at a local sporting goods story for next to nothing. No one shoots aluminum out of compound anymore and def not this light spine. I'm now bummed there was only a half dozen
Do you guys have the glue on nocks or the push in type? Looking for good suggestions for glue on nocks
QuoteOriginally posted by sheepdogreno:
Do you guys have the glue on nocks or the push in type? Looking for good suggestions for glue on nocks
If you hit it with another arrow, no glue out there will stop a nock from getting destroyed. I used Fletchtite for all my nocks back when I used to shoot aluminum.
Bisch
Bisch-i guess I didn't clarify I was curious what glue on nocks others used so I could stock up. I know there no help for a small piece of plastic when a tip smashes it! Lol I replace my push ins on my carbons a lot because I get nervous whenever I clip one.
I use 5/16 Legend nocks which are glue on. I use Fletchtite or Fletchtite Platinum to glue them on with. No issues.
Thanks Denny!
You are quite welcome! :)
I love aluminum arrows.... I dont care for the glue on nocks though. Much prefer the unibushings and push in nocks.
Nice looking arrows! Not much to dislike about aluminums except for stumpin'. I use 2018 Legacy shafts for 90% of my hunting. The arrows are easy to work with and have enough weight for good penetration.
Bernie
The reason those arrows were on clearance is that they are the old style Gamegetters, or maybe the Camo Hunters...the newer version of both those arrows has come with the Uni bushing system for quite some time...we shot those old swaged aluminum arrows for a long time very effectively...next time you break a nock remember that it is much easier to Robin Hood a Uni bushing arrow which costs you two good arrows with one shot
DDave
Nock are inexpensive...buy some Eastons and some Bohnings at the very least and see which ones work best for you...the throat size is somewhat different
DDave
Marco nocks also appear to still be available
DDave
I like the Bohning nocks.
Thanks Dave...I agree nocks are cheap arrows are not.
One question I do have is ordering glue ons require to know a diameter size. Would a 1916 be about a 1\\4 in shaft?
We old aluminum shooters kind of take for granted that people understand the numbers...a 1916 means the arrow has an outside diameter of 19/64 and a wall thickness of 0.016...any seller worth buying from will simply tell you what nock size you need...give Kustom King a call and they will fix you up...the only 1916's I have are the Uni bushing ones...the only swaged arrows I have are 22, 23, 24 diameter
DDave
You'll want to get 9/32" glue-on nocks for your 1916s.
The 1918 shafts are my favorite same outside diameter as 1916 . A 9/32 nock will fit the best.
Thanks everyone
Yeah, I love my 2016's They do fly great from a few of my bows. I have shot carbon for years now but killed my last deer this year with a 2016.
I can't believe they killed the 2020, I always felt it was the perfect aluminum shaft. I converted a bunch with 2413 uni-bushings to use push in nocks for quick field replacement. IMHO it made them even better (although I understand some folks consider it blasphemy.)
Now I'm sitting on 8 dozen bushings and 0 dozen shafts... Easton, arg!
Thom
(http://thomjorgensen.com/bows/arrows/2020and2413.jpg)
I like my 2016 Legacy's with Bohning nocks.
I use the cheaper Black 500 Gamegetter's for Beaver Hunting, Since the arrow is usually a one way trip....
My archery shop tried telling me easton was going to be done making aluminum after this year. I told him I hadn't heard that... He said it could be possible just their rep won't be carrying them anymore. Anyone heard anything about easton being done with aluminum?
Back in the day with all of the many sizes of aluminum arrow shafts it was easy to get just the right spine to match any bow or broadhead. Most broadheads were lighter then and it was common to find that if a 2020 would be too stiff for a bow and broadhead combination, the 1920 would be just right. The same for those that found 2016s to be slightly too stiff, simply go to 1918s. No need to play the guessing game with an extra long shaft and keep whittling it down until it flew. 3/4" clearance was a standard idea, as were Zwicky, Bear and Ben Pearson broadheads. Today, we still have that option with matching the shaft to the draw/broadhead/bow situation in wood shafts. We hear a lot about how the days of great wood arrows like Acme are gone forever, but there are three suppliers of wood shafts that I believe have surpassed Acme. My standard arrow is a 1918 for most of my bows, one bow I shoot 1920s and on one bow I shoot 1818s. I do switch to woods at times when I start thinking about how I will not ever be able to replace my aluminum shafts. My stash of aluminum shafts are not for sale.
QuoteOriginally posted by pavan:
Back in the day with all of the many sizes of aluminum arrow shafts it was easy to get just the right spine to match any bow or broadhead. Most broadheads were lighter then and it was common to find that if a 2020 would be too stiff for a bow and broadhead combination, the 1920 would be just right. The same for those that found 2016s to be slightly too stiff, simply go to 1918s. No need to play the guessing game with an extra long shaft and keep whittling it down until it flew. 3/4" clearance was a standard idea, as were Zwicky, Bear and Ben Pearson broadheads. Today, we still have that option with matching the shaft to the draw/broadhead/bow situation in wood shafts. We hear a lot about how the days of great wood arrows like Acme are gone forever, but there are three suppliers of wood shafts that I believe have surpassed Acme. My standard arrow is a 1918 for most of my bows, one bow I shoot 1920s and on one bow I shoot 1818s. I do switch to woods at times when I start thinking about how I will not ever be able to replace my aluminum shafts. My stash of aluminum shafts are not for sale.
I think I'm going to start keeping my eyes open for deals on aluminum shafts to start my own stash. Seems like everyone that has been deer hunting a long time either stick and string or wheel bow has a stash of xx75 shafts lying around somewhere. A family friend of mine who has been hunting longer than I've been alive saw a post of mine on social media and told me he has a lot of xx75s lying around he will never use again. Hopefully they are something I can use I'll probably take them off his hands!
5/16" nocks are easier to find and will also work fine. 1916 is 19/64" dia. Only 1/64" less than 5/16".
QuoteOriginally posted by mahantango:
5/16" nocks are easier to find and will also work fine. 1916 is 19/64" dia. Only 1/64" less than 5/16".
Thanks this helps!
I would suspect Easton will be done making aluminum shafts right around the same time they are done making aluminum bats...Easton is primarily an aluminum sporting good manufacturer
DDave
All shooters of aluminum should own a dial straightener. I was fortunate to find mine years ago on the trade blanket at ETAR for $5. It's worth its weight in gold (or aluminum). I straighten all of our club's youth class arrows.
What xx75 size do you all like for a 42-45#.
The 1916s at 30in with 125g field points and standard inserts are like lasers out of my 45# r/d lomgbow
or 2014 x7s at 29 to 30 inches........ one of my jigs set up for 20xx shafts so dont have to change for 2014,2016,2018 and 2020.........
I shoot 2114's from my Howard Hill bow. Fly great!
I contacted Easton Archery by phone after reading the post about them discontinuing aluminum arrow production. The Easton rep I spoke to told me Easton has not and will never stop production of all aluminum arrows. I asked him if I could quote him on that online in the Trad Gang forum. He told me to please do that and all it is is a rumor. So everyone breath a sigh of releif, aluminum arrows will be available long into the future.
1916, 2016, 2018 cover 90% of the arrow spines needed for most adult men.
QuoteOriginally posted by CoastalHunter:
I contacted Easton Archery by phone after reading the post about them discontinuing aluminum arrow production. The Easton rep I spoke to told me Easton has not and will never stop production of all aluminum arrows. I asked him if I could quote him on that online in the Trad Gang forum. He told me to please do that and all it is is a rumor. So everyone breath a sigh of releif, aluminum arrows will be available long into the future.
Thanks for checking up on this! I didn't think it was possible. I may not have shot aluminum until now but I've always known there was a serious following with aluminum shafts so I figured no way!
No problem Sheepdogreno glad to help. I started out shooting Easton XX75's back in 85 then tried some carbons when I bought my selfbow. I couldn't get the carbons to fly right no matter what I did. I tried 600 shafts 500 shafts and point weights from 100gr to 145gr arrow flight and my accuracy was horrible with them.. Then I bought a dozen 1916 Gamegetters full length with a 125gr field points. It was like night and day those arrows shot a whole lot better and I was much more accurate with them. Mind you that was with zero paper tuning or brace height adjustments. The only thing I don't like about Easton aluminum arrows is they don't offer them in autumn orange anymore. My first arrows ever where that color and I thought they looked great much better than the black or camo options they offer today. Hopefully Easton will bring them back someday I would snap them up in second.
I've had great luck with Legacy shaft's,they're tough and I can use glue on nocks.Over the years I've acquired a lifetime supply of 1916's,they fly great out of most of my setups.
QuoteOriginally posted by CoastalHunter:
No problem Sheepdogreno glad to help. I started out shooting Easton XX75's back in 85 then tried some carbons when I bought my selfbow. I couldn't get the carbons to fly right no matter what I did. I tried 600 shafts 500 shafts and point weights from 100gr to 145gr arrow flight and my accuracy was horrible with them.. Then I bought a dozen 1916 Gamegetters full length with a 125gr field points. It was like night and day those arrows shot a whole lot better and I was much more accurate with them. Mind you that was with zero paper tuning or brace height adjustments. The only thing I don't like about Easton aluminum arrows is they don't offer them in autumn orange anymore. My first arrows ever where that color and I thought they looked great much better than the black or camo options they offer today. Hopefully Easton will bring them back someday I would snap them up in second.
In case your wondering there is several people selling the autumn orange shafts on a certain big auction site. Several looked to be new old stock
Hey--what model arrows are those in the original post? Kinda like Camo Hunters, but I've never seen them in the two tone...?
I kinda like them...
Alums...easiest to tune, most consistent shafts made. Tune one shaft and the rest will fly! I've yet to see a doz carbons do it as well!
QuoteOriginally posted by HOOSIERGRIZZ:
Hey--what model arrows are those in the original post? Kinda like Camo Hunters, but I've never seen them in the two tone...?
I kinda like them...
Easton fall stalkers. Same specs as the xx75 just different color scheme. My local big time sporting goods store evidently couldn't sell these or any aluminum so I got a heck of a deal on them. Just had to strip the plastic vanes. Dull knife,acetone,and a rag and the shafts were ready to fletch