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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: 9 Shocks on January 31, 2015, 12:31:00 PM
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(http://i60.tinypic.com/210afbd.jpg)
I am in the process of tuning some new arrows to my thunderchild. I have straight left and right bareshaft flight but nock height seems to be an issue...Maybe I am not quite sure how to measure with this square. What mark on the square indicates 5/8s??? I have been moving my nock up and down all morning and feel as though i have gotten no where but maybe I am not going high enough?
Im a little frustrated.
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Well, if in doubt, compare to another ruler with clearer mark designations.
I would guess (only a guess) that those are 1/16" hash marks. That would make the 0 at the top 5/8" above the 0 at the bottom. In actuality, just don't lose that gauge and mark where the proper height is on it. Whatever it turns out to be is the right place, whatever you call it.
Where you set it is totally dependant on your own needs. I have seen some 3 under shooters go well above that (5/8").
CHuckC
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Looks like you are at 9/16, 5/8 would be at the upper 0 0n your square. It is not unusual to go as high as 3/4. An arrow coming off the bow a little nock high is usually ok, I think it actually helps the feathers clear the shelf in some cases.
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Sorry I can't help you on this question. But we need to go shooting soon.
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The previous replies answered your question. You didn't mention your release but 5/8ths is a very common set for 3U. I've never quite figured out why people fret over nock height like they do spine. Shooting nock heights up to 1" (intentionally higher than needed) is a common technique gap shooters use to minimize gaps. I can get acceptable bare shaft flight up to about 3/4" before I reach a point of diminishing returns. Feathers will stabilize it well past that though, and many tournament archers aren't worried about bare shaft as long as fletched is repeatable. Check out Dewayne Martin's youtube videos.
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Perfect! Thanks for the replies.
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I shoot 3 under and my nock is way high...almost looks weird...that's how every bow tunes for me though so don't be afraid to bump it up...you can always move it back
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Each bow could be different, depending on how the bow was originally tillered. For 3 under I like to tiller my longbows at zero.
James
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Mine tuned well at 3/4 .... Ide start at 7/8 and lower it slowly from there till you get it right.
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The top zero on that square is 5/8 just like others mentioned. 3\\4 is where my 58in longbow shoots with 3under
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Most of my bows at my 3-under draw hand set are 5/8". I have had a couple that were 3/4".
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I shoot 3 under...and my longbow tunes best at a touch over 3/8".
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I'm going to show my newbieness here...but what is the best way to loosen those brass nocking points to move them up and down? Or do you simply grab it and move it???
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Another dimension to this is how you draw the bow. I used to draw with more or less equal pressure on all 3 fingers, and had typical nock heights of 3/4" or more. Now I put most of the pressure on my index finger and my nock heights have dropped down to 1/2 - 5/8". I'm not sure most of the finger pressure is really on my index finger at full draw; it just starts off that way. But it sure makes a difference in my bare shaft tuning.
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All nock tools have a way of opening the nocks as well as clamping them down. The secret, though, is to clamp down just enough to hold the nock in place while you're tuning, so you can slide it under friction. Then clamp it down very little more when you want to fix it in place, so it doesn't damage the serving or string.
Many of us prefer to use tied on nocks rather than clamped brass nocks.
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10 of those little marks is 10/16= 5/8". You'd be much better off tying on your nocks than using the brass too.
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oooops! dbl post
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X2 on what Kirkll said. There are a few how toos on tying on an adjustable nock that are very easy to do.
Denny