I recently bought a cheap belt sander for sharpening broadheads, knives, kitchen knives, lawn mower blades, hatchets, etc.
I love it!!!! It makes super quick work of all my sharpening needs.
http://tbwpodcast.com/video-38-sharpening-on-a-belt-sander/
Great Video Jason.
I will have to give that a try.
Jason, I think I speak for a lot of the guys here. Thanks for sharing these great tips with us. Your time and efforts are very much appreciated! Craig
QuoteOriginally posted by mec lineman:
Jason, I think I speak for a lot of the guys here. Thanks for sharing these great tips with us. Your time and efforts are very much appreciated! Craig
Thank you!
Jason,I don't see the leather belt on their website? Thank you
QuoteOriginally posted by 3arrows:
Jason,I don't see the leather belt on their website? Thank you
I bought the belts from amazon. next time i get belts I will get 80 grit for setting edges, and a 240 grit or 300 grit for finishing the edge before stropping. the 120 belts i bought are not really worth anything except an extra step.
I bought the leather belt from prosharpening supplies online as they were cheaper on the leather than amazon.
I may have to invest in one in the future. Thanks for sharing it with us.
I may have to invest in one in the future. Thanks for sharing it with us.
(http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a571/GrimesvilleAssassin/_57_zps454326b5.jpg)
Jason.Try one of these guides on your platen,and the HF Belt Sander becomes a whole different animal.So easy with this attachment. Perfect,Repeatable angles,that only need the leather belt,to knock the burr off.
QuoteOriginally posted by T Mowery:
(http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a571/GrimesvilleAssassin/_57_zps454326b5.jpg)
Jason.Try one of these guides on your platen,and the HF Belt Sander becomes a whole different animal.So easy with this attachment. Perfect,Repeatable angles,that only need the leather belt,to knock the burr off.
That looks pretty impressive! simple and easy.
I will have to look it up. It does look like the angle is adjustable as well.
Great find! Thanks for sharing!
That looks simple enough that even I could do it.
I wonder if you have to take that universle angle guide apart to change belts. That would be a pain in the butt. Also it says not to use a leather belt. Probably because it will cut the belt because they are making you use it with the edge into the belt rather than away from the belt direction.
Very interesting and if some ones tryies one let me know how well it works.
Also not sure if it would work on broadheads with the ferrlue. 33 bucks not a bad price but may not be the best option if can't change belts fast and doesn't work well for heads.
I'm not nocking it, just have questions before id buy one so if someone does get one keep me in the loop.
Jason
Here is a better picture of the Jig.If you notice on the left side,it is left open,to facilitale easy removal from the platen and belt.It appears that the top thumb screw,tightens the jig to the platen,and the bottom thumb screw locks the angle adjustment. Looks like it will go on and off very quickly.I'll let you know,have one on it's way!
(http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a571/GrimesvilleAssassin/511qmMtHR-L_SX450__zpsdee63460.jpg)
Jason, I've sharpened quiet a few broadheads on the belt sander. Great way to go. If you're not real careful you will push the heat towards the tip by starting at the back. Starting at the tip will stop that.
looks good jason we have a similar product
QuoteOriginally posted by T Mowery:
Jason
Here is a better picture of the Jig.If you notice on the left side,it is left open,to facilitale easy removal from the platen and belt.It appears that the top thumb screw,tightens the jig to the platen,and the bottom thumb screw locks the angle adjustment. Looks like it will go on and off very quickly.I'll let you know,have one on it's way!
(http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a571/GrimesvilleAssassin/511qmMtHR-L_SX450__zpsdee63460.jpg)
Great! let me know how you like it when you get it! I have to admit the concept and design is pretty impressive, simple and effective as well as priced right. I excited to hear how you like it.
Butch,
Great suggestion on going tip to tail. I have only done it tail to tip but I have not noticed it even getting warm. Probably because im using coarse grit papers. I hear that the finer grit stuff gets warm fast. I will watch for any heat building and if I get it I will start going tip to tail. Thanks again for the great suggestion.
Does the jig require you to move the edge of the knife/broadhead into the rotation of the belt??
That's what appeared to be going on in some YouTube videos I watched (they were sharpening chisels) One guy mentioned installing a reversing switch on the motor so it spun the opposite direction. Seems dangerous if the jig required going into the rotation of the belt? Can the jig be installed upside down?
That's what I was thinking also Burnsie. Seems the belt would be cut.
I called them. They have been making this jig for 25 years with no apparent incidents. Still seems counter intuitive. I am more concerned of the knife catching and flipping back on me... ??
Like the guide concept but would like to see it turned upside down. will be watching to see if anyone tries that.
Terry if you figure out how to flip it please post.
Should be here today,or tomorrow.I will do a follow up,when I have used it enough to make a decision. I'm not worried about not being able to use the leather belt with the platen.I would never run leather with a forward running belt.That's just asking for stitches.Sand paper wont grab the steel like leather will. Till later!
By the time you've spent $75 on the HF unit and the guide, you can get the Worksharp for $69.
IMO a better unit since using the leather belt on the HF unit is not a good idea.
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/81SyzNgsB7L._SL1500_.jpg)
QuoteOriginally posted by NC BowBender:
By the time you've spent $75 on the HF unit and the guide, you can get the Worksharp for $69.
IMO a better unit since using the leather belt on the HF unit is not a good idea.
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/81SyzNgsB7L._SL1500_.jpg)
I bought one of these for my Dad this past Christmas, haven't had a chance to get an update from him on how it works. I sharpened a few kitchen knifes with it right when he took it out of the box and it seemed to work pretty good. But they were in decent shape before I started - would like to see it work on something real dull.
Some good online videos for it.
FYI- Talked to the die/technician at Wheatland/Surgi-sharp today. He said they have heard of no real problems in their 25 years. The only issue would be turning the knife on the jig so as to catch the edge of the paper, cutting the paper in a "New York Second" as he called it. :)But even that he has heard little about.
One reason he likes the belt coming "into" the blade is you can see as the edge rolls evenly.
He said most of the guys he knows use the jig with a 150 grit to just get the edge set. From there they freehand with finer grit and the leather belt just as Jason showed in his podcast.
Hope that helps. 5 minutes from the horse's mouth.
Dan in KS
Nc bowbender,
The work sharp only does convex sharpening where as the harbor freight unit does both convex or can do flat grind sharpening. That is a huge advantage if the sharpening methods are important to you.
The harbor freight unit is 40 bucks and you do not need the jig. So far I have done about 100 knives and a dozen heads on the sander with out a jig and it works perfect and makes everything wicked sharp.
The work sharp unit is a good unit and has made many people be able to sharpen knives. But it is more limited than the cheaper harbor freight model.
Like I said the jig is not needed as you see I don't use one in the video. But for someone struggling with correct angles the jig would be a benefit in the beginning.
The work sharp does a great job on knives. I am sharpening impaired ( probably a genetic safety mechanism to address my clumsiness) and I can easily get knives very sharp quickly with it. Have not figured out how to do broadheads w it, but would like to see a guide or modification to use it for them.
That's pretty good stuff Jason. I've listened to your podcasts many times making long drives to/from the lease.
Anybody who has any interaction with HF probably knows about their routine 20% off coupons. I got them coming via texts, email, mail, back of magazines, etc! Always have that coupon at the ready!
I would like to find a way to be able to sharpen knives and heads easily. I seem to be able to screw it up fairly quickly.
There are a couple systems I've seen that look like they would work great for people like me.
You could use that belt sander for other stuff too. You could even use it to start making your own knives if you were so inclined. I'd like to have one to make a few tabs with.
Nalajr
I have a belt sander I have used. I used a 220 or 240 grit and then went straight to a hard felt wheel on. A buffer to polish.
I never liked broadheads on it as the ferrule on some heads wouldn't let me get the right angle. I have since bought a Razors Edge Sharpening System
I feel it is the best sharpening system I have ever used. Knifes broadheads or other tools . It is all freehand but. Not. To tough to figure out and the whole system is under $50
How well would it work for a,3 blade like a woodsman?
Tim.
Tim I have tried a hand held belt sander mounted in a vice--(like a horizontal belt sander would be) and ran the woodmans on it with the belt going from tip to back--broadhead pointed right down the belt or parallel with it. It did help me get them sharper than with a file alone, but still not "hair popping" sharp. I don't know if running it perpendicular to the belt would cause it to grab. I have difficulty getting my three blades as sharp as two blades and am certainly interested in some pointers. Have watched a lot of the youtube videos on woodsman sharpening.
QuoteOriginally posted by Mr. fingers:
How well would it work for a,3 blade like a woodsman?
Tim.
works great on everything from small broadheads to huge boradheads, and little knives to big kitchen knives.
If you watch the video you will see how you drag the knife across the belt.
If you google knife sharpening services you will see that most companies that sharpen knives use the same belt sander as I show to do every size knife from paring knives to 10 inch butcher knives.
When you read about us going tip to back that means going perpendicular to the belt in a right to left or left to right motion starting with the tip first and ending at the back of the head. It works great but I find it easier to go back to tip as I can roll out the tip at the end.
The bst thing about the belt sander is the speed. I can take a broadhead from super dull to shaving sharp in about 1 minute. I still take it farther than that by hand stropping after the belt sander. But what used to take 10-15 mins a head now takes 3 to 4 mins and gets the same results.
on my knives what used to take 10 mins now takes 2 mins.
my kitchen knives were the one thing that was going to get me divorced. my wife was always yelling at me to sharpen kitchen knives. I hate sharpening kitchen knives! now my wife has the sharpest kitchen knives in the state!
I used to hate it when I would chip a knife blade or bend or break a tip. now 3 mins later and its back to perfect.
I also hate buying a new knive and having to reset the angle to the angle I like as it would take me 30-40 mins to change the angle. now it takes about a minute on the belt sander.
I used to take my mower blades in to be sharpend at the hardware store and pay money 2 times a year. now my mower blades are super sharp and ready to go in a few mins on the belt sander.
When I make my kydex knive sheaths and holsters I used to do all the detail work on a grinder, now its fast and easy and cleaner on the belt sander. I used to sharpen my machetes hatchets and axes with a file that took about 15 mins a tool to do. Now with the belt sander they are as sharp as I want and all nicks and dings removed in about 2 mins a tool.
So the belt sander is a great tool for many things and I love having it for all my sharpening needs.
There are some amazing sharpeners out there. The KME is amazing, Edge Pro is great, Sandpaper is my favorite for free hand, etc. But this belt sander is one tool I will not be without again now that I have one. It takes 5 or 6 knives sharpened to get the hang of it but then its smooth sailing with everything and your new best friend.
Thanks for the response :thumbsup:
So why do you think you get better result stropping by hand over the leather belt. When I stop my WW I find the longer i strop them the keener the edge just about hair poppin sharp but I usually get tired and stop where they seem sharp enough. I would think with the belt by lightening up on the pressure you could get them shavin sharp faster?
Tim.
Tim I actually made a mistake and didn't read your post about the 3 blade heads right and jumped the gun.
I have not done 3 blade heads on the belt sander and I'm not sure how well it would work if you wanted to keep the angle steep enough that the other blade would touch the belt.
I'm not saying it couldn't be done and if I shot 3 blade I would find a way to make it work just to be able to use the belt sander. But I've not tried it with 3 blade heads.
Sorry for not noticing that earlier.
As for the stropping you are probably right that I could get better results stropping in the sander but I have not found that to be the case yet. Probably to much pressure and not enough practice yet. But I think I will eventually be able to strop fast and just as sharp after more practice on the belt sander.
LB hntr: thanks for the post, I have a dozen Grizzly BHs that I decided to try out this coming hunting season and I own the KME BH sharpener and I will tell you I was so frustrated that I had made up my mind to get rid of the Grizzlies, they do shoot awesome out of my bows I will be buying this setup and keep the grizzly BHs now. BTW do you have a website for the leather belt that you could share as well? again thanks Richard
That's pretty cool.
You need to invest in a heater in your shop!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Bisch
Watching your videos I think Bisch might be on to something.
Richard you can order the leather belt at pro sharpening supplies and other places. But pro sharpening was half the price as amazon.
Bisch,
I have a huge salamander heater that works great right now but its loud and heat leaves fast as its in insulated.
Insulating and a good heater is on the to-do list. But my wife is in control of the order things get done on that list. Seems that things like redoing bathroom, new carpet, new kitchen floor, new deck, etc keeps getting ahead of the garage on that list!
I was just razzing you a bit! It looked cold in there and you just had on a couple shirts. I would have looked like the Michelin Man if it got that cold down here. I don't see how y'all hunt in the frigid north!
Bisch
Thats great stuff, I liked some of your other videos as well.
Thanks Josh!
Bisch this week is insanely cold! I went out to the garage on sunday night to cut a piece of wood for trim (redoing bathroom). It was minus 18! I walked in the garage, put the board on the table saw, got it all set and ready, put on my safety glasses and they instantly fogged and then froze. I thru the glasses on the bench and said "think I will wait until tomorrow when it warms up to zero!
Spring cant get here fast enough!
Like any tool, you have to learn how to use and get good with it. I would not start with new expensive broadheads. Practice with something old and cheap first.
A belt sander will take off metal very quickly and get red hot so you need to pay attention.
Gilbert
Got the jig and the leather belt this past week. It all works sweet.
Really KSdan? No problems with the belt turning into the blade that's great. Where did you buy the jig?
I got the jig from Amazon- though I did call the manufacturer- Wheatland Construction Corp. in Okla. to ask questions. They have been making it for 25 years- American! No reported problems with the jig as it is.
For what it does, it is the best tool since sliced bread! It can adjust angle easily. It goes on/off the sander in seconds w/o tools. You can change out a belt while it is on. Blades never get heated, it is just too fine and quick to even allow that. You can easily observe the edge for metal removal and burring as you sand it. NOTE: You do not use it with the leather strop however- as that does have to be used with the blade pointed down.
I sharpened 10 dull kitchen knives in 15 minutes! For basic knives the best grits seem to be 120, 320, 400, 600- though 120, 320/or 400, with the strop would work for most of my everyday/kitchen knives.
You can change and keep consistent angles. I used 10 degrees on the thin kitchen and filet knives- scary paper shaving sharp in under a minute! You can go as high as 35 degrees if you like.
I am going to make a wood jig/block/spacer for my broad-heads to accommodate the ferrule. Should be easy enough. I plan to set all my bevels with it. For my best knives I will still use my KME for the final edge, but in most around home apps I bet a guy could just use the sander/jig/belt set-up.
The time savings alone- while having sharp knives/edges around my home was well worth the $100 investment (HF sander + jig + leather belt + sanding belts = $100).
Hope that helps
Dan in KS
Thanks Dan.
Great review of the jig Dan!
Glad the system works great for you!
Just got done doing 2 dozen heads for my kids for the pig hunt in Florida next month with true south adventures. I actually timed it. It took me 9 mins on the sander and 10 mins on a hand strop (leather and my blue jeans). So in 19 mins I had 24 new magnus 2 blade heads done. Started with 180 grit and ran all 24 to set new angles, then switched to 400 grit and ran all 24, the the leather belt and ran all 24, the finished by hand on the leather hand strop and my jeans.
That would of normally took me hours to do.
Love this sander!
For anyone that is not comfortable yet with holing the right angl s by hand that jig sounds like a great addition!