Guys, the help I have received here has been unreal. As I continue to learn I will have questions and some may seem, well, stupid, but I have to know these things. So, I had a couple of arrows cut to 30". .500 GT 3555 trads. I have a 50 gr brass insert with a 125 gr head. with 5" feathers. total My questions is, sometimes Im seeing cork screwing with arrow flight. Sometimes I don't. I notice that if I hit my anchor correctly, there is no cork screwing. Could my release and anchor cause this? Or do I have other issues?
It could be your release. It could also be that if you aren't hitting anchor you are releasing before the bow is fully drawn, thus shortening your draw length resulting in a lower draw weight, and your arrows are showing stiff on that particular shot. It is important that your draw length be identical on each shot and a solid anchor is the key to achieving that.
Am not an expert like some on here... but there are so many things that can effect arrow flight of my arrows. Plucking the string, a tiny bit off nocking point, a little bit of feather contact, spine maybe a little off, ect. Too many causes for me to guess. Sorry not much help, Roy
It has been my experience that if you have good arrow flight sometimes, and bad arrow flight at others that the problem is your form/release.
You don't get good arrow flight from a bad release or form. Yes. form and or release is the problem. IMO.
Try to concentrate on what you do when you get good arrow flight. It doesn't take much to have things go bad. More practice will cure a lot of ills, IF you are working on form or release. Just shooting a lot of arrows will do nothing for you.
Im working hard to duplicate a solid anchor. My form still needs some work I think. If I can figure out how to post a vid I will.
Try blind baling, I never thought much of it but it helped my form and release a ton.
If you do get a video, post it in the Shooters Form forum. There are guys on there who have helped a lot of us recognize faults and mistakes we didn't even realize we had, let alone how to correct them.
Again, dont worry too much about your flight now. Your bow and arrows aren't tuned. The arrow isn't going to fly perfect everytime yet. Once your string stops stretching then you can begin the tuning process.
At this point you do however need to be concentrating on a perfectly consistant anchor and release.
Im trying to, but how will I know if I have the proper form and anchor? Will the arrow flight be the tell all? Even when trying to tune the arrow?
Here's what I'd suggest. JUST shoot what you have for now. WHEN your arrows start to group well is the time to start to tune or try to tune. Until you get acceptable groups(for you)it really won't matter much if you are tuned OR if the arrows fly badly -- they will still group. As said above, for beginners, the BIGGEST reason for poor arrow flight is NOT the equipment, it IS the shooter and shot execution.
Arne
Arne, Im not sure what is considered good. I can group 5-6 arrows in the vitals of a deer at 15 yds. Then the next 5 or 6 arrows will only have two arrows in the vitals. Then the next may 3 or 4. Then back to 6. It is all anchor and release for me. When I hit the right anchor and release, boom, my arrows group, if i don't they don't. Right now i have several arrows uncut. I have a couple cut to 30". with 175 gr up front. they fly pretty good from what I can see. But Im just starting so Im not the best one to be looking.
Listen to Arnie, keep shooting what you have. Since you came from shooting a compound you are expecting to shoot good groups quickly. Traditional shooting will take time.
Sounds like working on getting to the 'right anchor' consistently from close range is in order, ie form work.
yes, Katman, That's what I have been working anchor and form. I think it's coming together, I know that I will have more bad shots than good shots right now, so i don't get mad or frustrated. It just keeps me motivated to shoot more. Some days, it clicks well, and I am very consistent and others, not so much. Either way, im having lots of fun.
Go with hat Arne is suggesting. Would not hurt to look up his handle moebow on youtube.
My focus right now is getting the right anchor and release. From what I can tell, this has been my most flawed part of shooting. I also have to figure the follow through with the release. I think Im plucking.
Number your arrows to be sure it's not their fault.
Nock crooked,,point awry,etc,nock tight..loose.
Can get frustrating but keep at it.
Mike
VA, I'm seconding pretty much all that's been said. Many here are far more experienced, I'm just five or so years into the learning curve. Along with all the stuff mentioned - and it's all good - I'll chime in again that I find it best at this point to not get too hung up on paper or bareshaft tuning... too frustrating tip we get our form solid and consistent.
Doesn't mean not getting good flight- I just do better working with arrow flight as I watch 'em fly. I struggled with corkscrewing
for a while too, so I can relate. Kinda frustrating. For me, I think it was a combination of brace height, nock height, and less than optimal match of the arrows. Also any misalignment in point, nock, or fletching.What poundage and bow are you shooting? Might be kind of marginal for correct spine, when we get some good and some bad flight.
And about the arrows - personally, I've ended up doing better with woods than carbons; other than just liking 'em better I find I'm better able to tweak the arrows, with more predictable results - and I don't need a cut off saw or shop to cut 'em for me. I KNOW others prefer carbons or aluminum - with good reasons- just a thought for 'ya.
Oh and one more thing you may want to check out about tuning - I've gotten a whole lot out of reading the tuning tips on arrowskp.com. No paper or bareshafts involved, and some good reasoning about why.
I know this, I used to look at shooting my compound like a chore, I hated to go and shoot. This recurve, has changed that, I can't stand it not to fling some arrows daily.
There are lots of things that can change slightly. How your hand is positioned (left and right) on the bow,(wrist high, not as high), squeezing, dropping arm; how you hold your head while aiming ( tilted, canted, straight up and down), all can affect where the arrow goes. As can your release.
The release itself can include several forms of changes.
Where is your arrow hand ending up at / after the release ?
ChuckC
Im not sure, I need to find out.
What Moebow said. You can only tune as well as you can shoot.
Good grouping is more than a good group here and there. It's consistent. Work on one thing at a time, starting at the bottom. Accuracy is at the top.
If you don't already have it, a great investment would be Masters of the Barebow, Volume III. Better than that would be attending one of Rod's clinics. You will be money ahead in the long run.
Could be release issue and/or torquing the string, borderline spine...
I am moving this to the Shooters Forum.... :campfire: