Hey guys. Just had a few questions about the new 3555 GT Trads I received in the mail today.
I was going to do as I have seen and shoot one arrow bareshaft to see what length I need to cut the arrow to get to the right spine.
The arrow is 32" and I had a 125gr FP on the end. Total weight was 429 gr. When I shot it at a distance of about 10 yards I was getting good grouping where I was aiming, but the shaft was nock to the right quite a bit showing heavy spine.
I made a brass screw to insert from the back of the insert which weighs 71 gr to increase total weight to 500gr. Checked the FOC and it is about 19.5%. The arrow now flies pretty straight showing spine is pretty close with the extra weight up front.
So here Is my question. I would like the shaft closer to 30", but if I remove 2" wont that make me way over spined again? Technically that would put me around 483gr by removing 8.6gpi x 2".
I would rather not have a 32 inch arrow, but I am afraid that if I lop off the 2 inches that I am going to be overspined or have to go to a really heavy insert.
What do you guys think I should do? Can I make these work without going supper heavy for my 45# Grizzly? Should I have bought the 1535's?
Thanks a lot,
Dave
If you want them shorter you will need to up point weight with that shaft. 2" is a lot to cut off as carbon reacts quicker to length then point weight. Hopefully someone with experience with this bow weight and arrow spine will chime on. My thought is 1535's if you want to shorten it 2". Nothing wrong with a full length shaft though.
I agree with katman. I would not cut anything off those shafts----get some 200 grain field points and shoot away---fletch up a half dozen and as you gain experience and develop form periodically shoot the bareshaft and see if anything changes. Like katman said nothing wrong with a full length shaft. you may find you like it for your gaps. if not, next time you buy arrows go with the 1535s. I would be pleased with how your arrows are performing for you so early in the game---took me a couple of attempts to get it right--but I always was a little slow on the draw. Shoot a lot and don't worry so much--this is supposed to be fun.
I think you will need to go to to 1535 to get the arrow weight where you want at 30" length.
What is your actual draw length?
Thanks guys. Well I guess I can keep them at 32", that just feels overly long.
I shoot instinctively and try to avoid gapping as it messes me up when changing ranges. So the extra length really doesn't do anything for me there.
Actual draw length is 28-5/8"
Thanks,
Dave
Also something to note is that at ten yards the nock is fairly high barshafted as above. Not sure what that means as my nock point is set around 1/2" which seems a bit high, but is where I got it to shoot with GT 3555 XT Hunters.
That is something else I wanted to ask. I have GT 3555 XT Hunters at 30" Shaft and 30.5" to nock grove, and they seem ok. They don't seem as accurate as I would like but they fly ok with 3, 4" parabolics. Weight is 380 gr.
For kicks I just took the Hunters out and put the 71 grain weight in one and left two at the 380gr. I could not tell any difference other then that it sunk deeper in the target and that it seemed audibly slower to hit the target.
Yes, yes, I am over thinking this as has been suggested a few times :rolleyes: , but I just want to get this set up so that I can get the most out if it and be the best shot with it that I can. I guess this goes back to having shot competitively and tinkering with many different loads, i.e. different powder, bullet, primer, and case combinations to get the best rifle accuracy. :D
Thanks, and bear with me. Hehe.
Dave
there should be no difference in spine between the two different arrows you have, the only difference should be the actual arrow straightness, the trad arrows actually should be a little heavier because of the extra coating they put on them to make them wood grain. the truth be told the arrows will shoot exactly the same the difference is going to be in the fletching job and your release as for accuracy. I can take three different arrows and shoot them out of the same bow and they will all shoot the same. I have the std black XT hunters, and the trad wood grain, and some Nugent arrows they all shoot the same with the only difference being the total arrow weight.
I would leave them aloneand not cut them right away. Try a 200gr point on it like rifleman said. You can also buy a field point test kit which comes with 2of each weights rangeing from 100 to 250gr. Then find out what tunes well then order a dozen of that gr point. The good thing about test kit is you can always tinker around with different arrows lengths weights for different setups and bows.
When said your bare shaft was flying nock high it could be your nock point needs to be lowered I think. If not raise it.
I shoot half a dozen different bows all in the 45 to 50 pound range. I only shoot 15/35's and they are all cut 29" BOP.
It is not my preference to tune my shafts by length as I want every arrow I pick up to be the same length. I want the view of the arrow tip to always remain constant.
There are so many other ways to tune the shaft, point weight, brace height, side plate thickness, and nock height.
Just do what works best for you.
Please read this
http://veraxservice.net/arch/tuning.htm
http://www.bestrecurvebowguide.com/tuning-your-recurve-bow-part-3/
and or watch this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BSJ6-HjPMTM
These explain in very simple terms how to tune you bow and arrows
I shoot 3555s out of 45# bows that are 30.5" L with 125 gr points. They fly beautiful. My old arrows cut to 29" needed 50 gr inserts to make them shoot out of the same bows. Make sure the arrow is pushed out far enough past center so the right side of the arrow is just touching the left side of the string.
reddogge, now you lost me. The right side of the arrow just touches the left side of the string?
At the point, or just behind the point?
I've been shooting the wrong spine for a while. I had 5575s. I got a bareshaft and it kicked to the right wildly. I got a bare and fletched 3555 and it is an amazing difference. I shoot a 44# @ 28" Browning Stalker and draw to 29.5" I tuned it decent last night and have a little nock high to take care of now. I will be keeping a bareshaft handy from now on. I got one because someone suggested shooting one occasionally to keep you honest on your form. Once you get the bareshaft flying straight, if nothing on your setup has changed, then your bareshafts should always fly straight. If not, examine where in your form you are going wrong. I guess it is akin to pistol shooting, and loading snap caps.
Look at your original posted question about what spine to get ? Many said 1535's, the good news is, you won't have any trouble getting rid of the 3555's. If you want to keep them, just go heavier on the point weight.
Bladepeek, especially with ILF you can set center shot, basically hold bow in front belly facing you, line up string down middle of riser and limbs, the arrow when nocked will point a little left of true center, most set up ILF so the end of arrow, the right side of it, is just left of string line as a starting point. Hope that helps.
I shoot 500 spine out of my 43# recurve cut to 28.5" with 215grains up front and they fly like darts. Try more foc and you will be happy. Rich pyle
DO NOT CUT the 3555(500) shafts get several different weight field points and 100-125-150-175-200-225-250-300 and or inserts 50-100 and find a combo that weakens the shaft (thinning the strike plate can help also) to get good flight. If all else fails trade for some 600 spine shafts with another trad ganger
Thanks everyone. The place I ordered these shafts from said they would swap them out for 1535's if I wanted to, all I would have to do is pay shipping, which is only $5.
I would really like to have a shorter arrow, 29.5" to 30.5" would be preferred.
What approximate weight range could I get with the 1535 Trads? It would be nice to stay in the 9-10 gpp range for my 45# Grizzly.
That was my biggest concern with these 3555 Trads that I currently have is that they are longer then I want at 32", that I already had the total weight up to 500gr without any fletching, and they were still flying with the nock a little to the right. I would rather not have to go even heavier to use these.
What do you guys think? Should I send the 3555's back and exchange them for the 1535's? Would the 1535's work in the 380-470gr range at this length?
Thanks a lot,
Dave
You answered your own question I think, since you do not want to go heavier on the 3555, only option is to drop spine.
With a 30 to 31 inch draw length I shoot most arrows full length from necessity...I too am an instinctive/intuitive shooter...I cannot ever remember using the end of the arrow for anything when I am shooting...if you decide to make it a non issue it will be...there are no style points in Traditonal bowhunting
DDave
Well, I myself would cut one shaft to the length you want and see what it takes to make it fly well. If it is suitable for you, go with it.
Also. . when all else fails. Put 5.5" feathers on the dang thing and it will fly pretty darn well even it it is way over or under spined.
We have been driving toward perfection, but perfection is not always (or even usually) necessary.
CHuckC