Hey guys! I recently got my first bow, it's a Hoyt Dorado. I had it set up by the local shop and they also provided me with arrows. My question is about the arrow rest they installed (came with the bow so stock Hoyt rest). It's been about 5 days since I picked it up and I made it a goal to shoot 50-100 arrows a day depending on how I'm feeling. The issue is the stock rest started to get torn up but I kept shooting as I thought it was normal wear and tear. After about the 3rd day I knew something was wrong and ordered a NAP Centerest flipper based off the many recommendations I read online and decided to keep shooting with the stock rest until the Centerest arrived a couple of days later (amazon prime kicks ass). As you can see from the pictures below the rest got pretty chewed up from the arrows bouncing off of it after release (I think this is what was happening could be wrong though since I just started about a week ago). I jumped online and started trouble shooting based off the info I found online. The first issue was that the brace height was way off. It was set at 6 1/2" at the shop. Per Hoyt the Dorado brace height is to be at 7-8". After I learned how to adjust the brace height I set it where it currently sits at 7 1/4". After that I looked into setting the nock point. I tied on a nocking point using serving thread at 1/2" above centerline on the centerest flipper. The bow seems to be shooting fine now and the thing is I was shooting decent groups with it how it was set up before (rest getting chewed up, brace and nock height off). My questions is how do I ensure everything is ok now and what could be some of things that would cause my rest to get chewed up like it did? Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
Details of my setup
Hoyt Dorado 40lb
7 1/4" brace height
1/2" high nocking point
30" Gold tip trad arrow 3355/500
My draw is 28 1/2"
Shooting fingers 3 under
FYI all of my shooting thus far has been very short ranged, one side of my garage to the other(about 7 yards). I've been focusing on form shooting at 2" targets.
Pics of the rest right before I took it off to install the centerest.
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af349/Juice5610/20150119_150043_zpsawjg0au5.jpg) (http://s1022.photobucket.com/user/Juice5610/media/20150119_150043_zpsawjg0au5.jpg.html)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af349/Juice5610/20150119_203014_zpsmujt05rw.jpg) (http://s1022.photobucket.com/user/Juice5610/media/20150119_203014_zpsmujt05rw.jpg.html)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af349/Juice5610/20150119_150032_zpslnbeduuz.jpg) (http://s1022.photobucket.com/user/Juice5610/media/20150119_150032_zpslnbeduuz.jpg.html)
I am guessing your arrows are too stiff. What point weight do you have?
QuoteOriginally posted by Cyclic-Rivers:
I am guessing your arrows are too stiff. What point weight do you have?
X2
The shop put on 100gr bullet field tips.
Try some heavier points or weaker spined shafts. Or both.
X3 Try heavier points--maybe 150-175 grains?
Yep, 100 g on the 35/55's for a 40# bow would be too little. I shoot the same arrows out of my 53# bow and I am on the low end of weight at 125g.
I bought some inserts, nocks and different weight tips yesterday after reading about bare shaft/paper tuning. I have some 125gr's at home now. I'll throw those on and keep shooting while I wait for the 150gr/175gr. I'll post again once the heavier tips come in. Thanks!
Arrows have vanes or feathers?
just wondering if your feathers are showing a lot of wear too...shelf looks pretty deep with no radius ...the new rest should help a bunch...don't forget to raise your nocking point when you install it....
QuoteOriginally posted by JB:
Arrows have vanes or feathers?
Feathers
QuoteOriginally posted by pumatrax:
just wondering if your feathers are showing a lot of wear too...shelf looks pretty deep with no radius ...the new rest should help a bunch...don't forget to raise your nocking point when you install it....
I raised it to 1/2" and the feathers do show some wear but most of the wear is on the shaft right between the index and low fletchings.
Are,you shooting split or 3 under. If shooting 3 under raise you nock point to 5/8 or 3/4. If shooting split 1/2 to 5/8 should be about right. I agree with what everyone else said about being on the stiff side.
You should have been trouble shooting based on the advice of a competent mentor watching what was going on...as soon as I read the term "jumped online" I got a bit worried about how things might be going for you...right under the Little Crow Custom Bows ad at the top of this page you will see some great information with the title hilited in yellow that you really ought to read
DDave
Raise your nock point. Looks like the outer edge of the rest is getting chewed... Spine might be ok, try raising your nockpoint first.
Gotta agree with Damascus Dave... the Internet is a wonderful place, but ten minutes with another competent archer (not one of those from that shop) to critique you will be worth more than ten hours of data mining and fumbling along by yourself. Go find a club with non-wheelie-bow archers
Its funny you both mention that I'm actually in the middle of joining the required organizations in order to join one of the local clubs 30 mins from my house.
www.orancobowmen.org (http://www.orancobowmen.org)
I agree with trying the nock point at 5/8th to 3/4er since your shooting 3 under.
I would also play with the brace hieght.I would try everything in the recommended range of the bow all the way up to the max of 8 inches.Thier should be a spot where the bow shoots the best.Where it feels the best and has the least vibration and noise.You might also get cleaner arrow flight at a certain brace hieght.
I have alot of field point wieghts from 100 grains up to 300.You can get a test kit with a variety of point weights for tuning the arrows you have and see which point weight works the best.you also have the option of using 50 grain or 100 grain brass inserts that can be glued in with hot melt and swapped out.
Your arrows are wayyy to stiff for 40lbs.You need 15/35.I'm not sure that you could ever get those shafts to work,even with a heavy point.
I shoot a Dorado also, i have found that mine likes a 9/16 nocking point, i know it's high but thats what she likes... and like others have said, 100 grain points for those arrows and 40# are just to light. either get weaker spine arrows or heavier points, if you plan to hunt go with the heavier points.
I think you can make those 3555s work. 1535s might be a better choice, but since you already have the 3555s and they're 30" long, I'd load them up until they do fly right. Next time, I'd buy some 1535s and compare them, but for now, try some 175 and 200 gr points and see if that doesn't improve things a lot!
My 3555s are cut 29.5 and I'm only drawing 28" to your 28.5, but my bows are a couple of pounds heaver so I believe we are close. I think if you raise the brace height a bit, possibly raise the nock height a hair and try the heavier points, you will see quite an improvement.
I like to have a variety of points on hand, but I understand you may not want to buy 3 or 4 packs of different weights. If you'd like to try some different weights, let me know and I'l send you one or two each of 145 - 225 gr field points. Once you get one that flies well, I'd just shoot that combination until you start getting nice tight groups. Then find a place where you can shoot at 20 yds and see what adjustments you have to make.