Howdy fellas, I just got my order of arrows, gt 3555 from 3 rivers. The arrows were listed as 30" shafts but upon recieving they are actually 32". After shooting for the last several months I believe my draw length is around 26.5 to 27" not the 28" i was measured at when I bought my bow (45# bear montana). My question is this.....should I be trying to shoot these at full length? There will be a whole lotta arrow hanging out there if I do, or should I trim these arrows back before I even try shooting them? And advice on a starting point would be much appreciated.
I have the same arrows. Right now Im shooting them full length. Im 27" draw pulling a 50# recurve for 47#. I will begin testing different weight points and arrow length very soon. I will let you know what I find.
As long as they are spined correctly it won't hurt at all
Is there any advantage to leaving them full length? I know I'll keep a little weight, 7ish grains an inch. That doesn't seem all that significant to me. Maybe I'll put inserts in one and see how it shoots and I'll let my arrow performance be the deciding factor.
from what Im being told no advantage or disadvantage. I do know the more weight up front the weaker the spine. So what I have been told, if I add weight, I need to cut arrows. 1/4 " at a time.
Longer arrow makes for smaller gaps if you gap shoot. Other than that, no advantages that I can see. They're also a bit more unwieldily. If you use a bow quiver, the nock ends of the arrows are much more likely to stick in the dirt when you lean your bow against a tree. Because they're longer, any bow movement on stand is amplified. It also takes more movement to draw the arrow from the quiver and get it on the string, regardless of what kind of quiver you use.
I cut my arrows to one inch longer than my draw length and tune them to the bow with point, insert and adaptor weight, and sometimes side plate adjustment.
35-55s may be a bit stiff if you cut them to 28 inches. But, you may be able to load the front end enough to get good arrow flight and still have a modest weight arrow. Only way to know for sure is to try one out. Good luck.
Over the years I have shot Aluminum, woodies and carbons I always kept my arrows cut to an inch longer than my 27" draw. Then play around with the weight up front. 35/55 Gold Tips for a 45 to 50 pound bow I liked a 175 to 250 gn field point up front. No need for all that extra arrow IMHO. If you plan on doing the cutting yourself you should have a dremel tool and an abrasion saw.
The advantage to cutting your arrows the same length is that your point on reference will be the same. Most guys like about an inch past their riser..... The problem with doing that is that cutting your shafts shorter stiffens the spine and you'll need more point weight to get the same dynamic spine results.
Even if yo do not consciously use a gap aiming method. you'll find cutting 4" off your arrow is going to change your impact point of aim a lot. You are going to shoot higher with the same point on....
What ever you do... do it consistently. Nothing wrong with shooting full length arrows at all. but with a shorter draw length you have a choice.
Your arrows should shoot close to perfect for full length with 125 grain points, as far as dynamic spine goes... You do have the option to cut the arrows and increase the FOC.
I got the 50 grain inserts to beef up the front end, I figure with that I can probably get them flying right by playing with different size points
A longer arrow means you don't have to shoot as far! :bigsmyl:
My only comment is that it is a WHOLE LOT easier to cut them back a little at a time than it is to add a little back on to the length. If you have the ability to cut them yourself (and that doesn't take a lot of ability), definitely start out full length with the point weight you would prefer to shoot. Cut very slowly back to where they tune properly, or you get to the shortest length you can accept and then start taking off point weight if necessary.
With carbon arrows I let my tuning determine their final length,I don't really care about how long they are as long as they are tuned to my bow.With wood and aluminum you have a lot more spine choices to choose from.
QuoteOriginally posted by Bjorn:
A longer arrow means you don't have to shoot as far! :bigsmyl:
:clapper: :clapper: :clapper:
Best answer ever!!!!!!!!!
QuoteOriginally posted by Kirkll:
The advantage to cutting your arrows the same length is that your point on reference will be the same. Most guys like about an inch past their riser..... The problem with doing that is that cutting your shafts shorter stiffens the spine and you'll need more point weight to get the same dynamic spine results.
Even if yo do not consciously use a gap aiming method. you'll find cutting 4" off your arrow is going to change your impact point of aim a lot. You are going to shoot higher with the same point on....
Kirk.....with a longer arrow wouldnt I end up shooting lower by gap shooting with a longer arrow? I shoot 3 under and I do gap, with the 29.5" arrows I'm using now my zero gap yardage is around 18 yards....I would think having a longer arrow would cause me to drop my bow to get my arrow point where it is with a shorter arrow, which would result in a lower point of impact, am I wrong there?
What ever you do... do it consistently. Nothing wrong with shooting full length arrows at all. but with a shorter draw length you have a choice.
Kirk forget what I said....I misread your post
QuoteOriginally posted by Bjorn:
A longer arrow means you don't have to shoot as far! :bigsmyl:
This is one of the classics.
:bigsmyl:
QuoteKirk.....with a longer arrow wouldnt I end up shooting lower by gap shooting with a longer arrow? I shoot 3 under and I do gap, with the 29.5" arrows I'm using now my zero gap yardage is around 18 yards....I would think having a longer arrow would cause me to drop my bow to get my arrow point where it is with a shorter arrow, which would result in a lower point of impact, am I wrong there?
You are not wrong... you will shoot higher with shorter arrows, and lower with longer arrows using the same point on aiming system even if the arrows are the same weight. You can actually adjust where you want your point on by using your arrow length. Then adjust your point weight to get them bending right....You got it right...
In my 75 lb. recurve I shoot a full length (34") 2419 aluminum shaft. Why? Because that is what my bow, form, shooting style, likes. I draw close the 30 inches (approaching 80 lbs) with this bow.
I tune to shoot 160 snuffers so my arrow length is whatever it ends up being when flying the best......... theres more than one way to skin that cat so you have to decide which is a priority for your shooting, arrow length or point weight...............
Thanks for the help fellas. I think I'll start with one full length and shoot it a bit and make my decision from there.