Arrows came in with the string. I'm getting ready to go to the archery shop and see what I can come up with. Update later today!
:thumbsup: :campfire:
Have fun :archer2:
Have fun! Johnny
Ok I'm back. So far I left the arrows at full length. I shot them with a 100 gr head. I shot about 100 shots. About 40 at first. Then set the brace at 8 1/4. Moved the nock point up just a bit. Shot about 50 or so more shots from 10 to 20 yds. At 20 yds the tech said the arrow was flying darn near perfect. No Noticeable fishtailing or porposing. I was suprise at how well I shot for my first time. So was he. He said usually it's a train wreck when guys come in to shoot for the first several times. At 10 yds I was doing very well. 15 was not bad but could be better. 20 yds was tough but I did manage to hit dead center of the ring once and the kill zone on the deer target about 5 times. Overall it was fun and I had to make myself stop! My total arrow weight is 420 gr. I know that is too light. So now I need to figure out what to do. Or is there a need to do something?
Sounds like you had fun! Great news!
Your arrows are 420 Grains. Remind me of the weight of your bow. Perhaps nothing but practice needs to be done???
(Perfect) practice makes perfect.. and lots of it, over time.
Have fun.
Joe :archer2:
It's a 50# bow at 28" but I'm pulling it to 27" if I went to say 150gr head what would that do? Make my spine weaker?
Yes, a heavier point will weaken spine. But, cutting the shaft will stiffen it and compensate for the added weight up front. If it were me, I'd pick a broad head/point weight.....say 175gr-225gr (not only will you have a large assortment of BH's to choose from, it will also add weight to your finished arrow). Then cut your shaft down until you're getting good flight.
Are 175s hard to find? BH and field point?
Nope thats a standard point weight.
Standard for Trad. Likely won't find them at Gander Mt or Cabela's, but yup, they are standard.
ChuckC
You could also use a 100gr insert with a 100gr or 125gr point/BH. Either way, don't worry about adding that kind of weight to the end of the arrow. You'll find it to be beneficial in the long run.
So do you guys recommend me getting some 175s and start shooting and cut as need? I wouldn't think that I would have to cut much. The. again I don't know how long the arrow is right now.
If you're getting good flight, don't worry too much about arrow tuning right now. You have good arrow weight at the weight you're drawing. Right now, you should just be shooting and having fun.
As long as it's not stressing the limbs with that light of an arrow I'm good with shooting it this way.
I'm glad you got to go shoot! Sounds like you're having a blast. At your 27" draw you're probably shooting about 47#. This has your arrow weighing about 8.9 grains per pound, which is just fine for what your doing. All you need to do right now is shoot, and have fun! My Dad's hunting arrow is about the same gpp as you're shooting, and works fine on our Texas whitetail. My arrows are about 10.5 gpp. As far as your bow is concerned, I would never shoot an arrow lighter than 8 gpp. I've read a fair amount on the matter, and any lighter than that could be stressful on the bow. When you start thinking about a hunting arrow using 10 grains per pound is widely accepted. In the meantime, enjoy shooting!
Thanks chase. It looks like I'm at 8.9 gr per pound like it is. It looks a little funny with the arrow being that long but I guess it makes no difference to a deer!
Glad you finally got to shoot a few arrows, as chase said just have fun. If I never got to hunt again I would still shoot a trad bow, just something about watching a arrow fly. Most ( not all )compound hunters hang their bows up after season and forget about till next season. Most trad hunters seem to shoot theirs every chance they get! Johnny
If you are getting good arrow flight there is not any reason to change anything. You will kill plenty of deer with a 420 grain arrow. I would concentrate on the shooting part at this point in time and worry about optimum arrow weight down the road.
Yep, just work on your form, anchor and release for three months. Then you can start fine tuning your arrows. You need to build your muscles for better accuracy and consistency.
Direct your will to learn online and study good shooting form and habits.
Ok, well when I shot it the first 50 shots it was porposing badly. Then we moved the nock point up and it flew very well. Now, this was all with a fletched arrow of course. I never had any left or right issues that we could see. Im fine with shooting them just as they are.
Yes, I'd do just that:) select the broadhead weight you would like to shoot. I'd say 175-200 will leave you with the most options.
Then just bareshaft using the field point (never BH) and cut from the nock end 1" at a time. You should end up cutting those shafts down to about 28"