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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: the rifleman on December 24, 2014, 04:40:00 PM
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I've been shooting full length beman mfx 600s and gold tip 1535s out of my Toelke Whip which is 50@28. I draw 26 inches. I have had decent results bare shafting these arrows and they do hit where I look when I do my part. When I paper tune them I consistently get tears showing that he arrows are too weak---I am shooting 200 grains up front and have even gone up o 275 grains up front on the bemans and still show alittle stiff on paper. I have been thinking about trying the Heritage 75 shafts which are rated at .670 spine. Looks like they come with alum inserts. Any thoughts or guidance would be appreciated.
Thanks, John
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Sorry---my error---the tears show the arrows are too STIFF not too weak. tip right fletching left and I shoot left handed.
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Wish I had an explanation as to why they are reading stiff. Full length with that much weight up front if anything seems would show weak providing you are hitting an assumed weight of 44#. Perhaps someone else will help you through it. Best wishes and merry Christmas.
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The first thing I always look to when getting unexpected bareshafting results is my form...shoot the arrow through paper each day for a week and see if your results are consistent before making any change...you have nothing to lose that way
DDave
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My first guess would be to weak and they are bouncing off shelf and giving a false stiff reading. I would start lowering tip weight and see what happens. I am shooting 3555 with 225 up front full length from a 47 pound longbow. If the lighter tip works you can then cut shafts and go back up in tip weight. Just my guess good luck.
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I agree with Fast. Out of my thunderchild I'm shooting 47lbs at my draw which is 24 7/8" and im shooting 1535 gt traditionals cut to 25 3/4" with a 50gr brass insert and 250gr point. Thats tuned with broadheads perfect.
I would start back with 100gr point and se where your at then work your way up in weight.
I you dont have a field point test kit, I would invest in one. They have 2 or each weight from 100 gr up to 300gr. It will save you alot of time and money. I believe BigJim sells them.
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I have tried shorter mfx 600s and 1535s---down to around 28 inches and experimented with various point weights. Anything lighter up front or shorter arrows and the paper shows stiffer. I thought of something today---I tried a wood arrow spined 50/55 cut to 29 w 125 point and they showed proper bullet holes (just alittle nock high). I tried my carbons today---I had been orienting them in an inverted Y, but changed them to shoot cock feather in---what a difference---they shot bullet holes w 125 and 145 gr points---also just a little nock high. I shoot left handed and use right wing feathers---4 3/8" low profile shields. I think this business of changing how the feather contacts the strike plate has solved my problem. Anyone else ever find this makes a difference with their bows? Most of what I've read says it doesn't matter how the feathers are oriented, but it seems to make a big difference on paper for me. Thanks for everyone's advice.
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My bow is 49 @ 28 and I draw 26. It is an RER Retro. I shoot CE 90's cut 29 with 145 grain tips. Shoot perfect for me. I can also screw in a 175 and still get good results. My bow does like a high nock at 5/8.
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Rifleman, yes, feather placement can make a substantial difference. However, one can usually get proper clearance by adjusting the brace height and nock point.
I suspect your brace height might be a little low causing the arrow to bounce off the side plate and give you a false stiff reading. It's likely that only the feathers are hitting the side plate, but they're hitting hard enough to throw the arrow off. Turning cock feather in reduces this possibility. So does raising the brace height. Good luck.
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Orion, thanks for the information. I will definitely try some brace height adjustment in the future. I think I have about a 1/4 inch I could increase by and still stay in the bowyers recommended range.