First off just want to comment on what a great, positive site you all have going for you on here. It's nice to see a place where you can get information and bypass reading negative garbage like we see so much of on discussion boards.
I have been teetering on buying a longbow for the past couple years and finally am looking to pull the trigger on one this winter. From the test shoots I've had, im looking to keep my draw weight in the 40s but my question is based on whether or not to buy a used or new bow. Having a budget around the $200-300 mark, I want to make sure I get something nice and of quality. Those gorgeous custom bows catch my eye but I would be sleeping in the garage if I spent that much with a 6 month old at home.
Any input would be greatly appreciated on recommendations as to go used or new and what specific models to pursue. Thanks in advance
you can find some some decent bows at a reasonable price that are new. samick makes a decent recurve, I own one and like it a lot, I can't speak for their longbows but have read good reviews about them. if you buy used you need to check it out very closely to make sure that it has been taken care of, you don't want to buy a bow that someone else didn't care about.
Do you have any idea of which kind of LB you are wanting? Lots of different choices and styles; straight limb, reflex/deflex, hybrid, etc. Lengths, grip styles all vary but can fall under the general term of 'longbow'.
There are lots of great bargains on used bows right here on TG, so it might be worth it to invest $30 in a contributor membership so you can access the classifieds. You can get more bow for the money if you go used, and lots of bows on this site sell as used but perform like new. Also, if there is a way you can get your hands on different bows and shoot them, it might help your decision making.
Many variations, many choices, and if you are like most of us, one bow invariably leads to another, then another, ad nauseum.
I personally would use the classifieds here and start looking at used bows. You will get way more bow for your money buying used. If you buy them right you can try them out and sell them for what you paid if it doesn't fit you.
I also think we (at least me) are a little more fair in judging a bow that we aren't all that invested in. I've shot some very nice used bows that people just raved about that I don't like at all. I'm pretty sure that if I had paid 2x the money for them, and had a long wait time to get it, then it would have been harder for me to admit that I really didn't like them......and then what, sell them here for 50% of what I paid for them? Not me. It's a buyers market for sure right now, just scroll down and look at all the nice like new bows for sale right now.
I went through quite a bows a few years back and ended up with a used MOAB that I absolutely loved. The problem is that my wife also loved shooting that bow and we all know how that goes. LOL. So her old bow was sold and the search was on for another MOAB for me, and I did find one that was stunning! Problem was that something was different in that bow in the grip or shelf that I didn't like and I just couldn't shoot it as well as "her" MOAB and down the road it went. I ended up with a used double carbon centaur and my search for another MOAB was over.
I guess that all is just a long winded opinion saying I would try used bows until you find one that fits.
hey bob, if youre ever in syracuse you can shoot my montana LB and my forward handle HH wesley special.
both good bows, the montana being closer to your $$ range.
like its been said, youll have to shoot different styles of grip and limb designs to find whats right for you.
i fell in lust with my hill bow after the first shot.
These guys above me here are telling it straight, great advice! You definitely need to do your research and figure out what "kind" of longbow you want, as the term "longbow" nowadays is pretty danged broad. At its most basic it means a bow where the string does not touch the limbs when braced. That's about it. You can have longbows with highly reflexed, wide limbs and grips that are practically a recurve, or a purist Hill-style that has long narrow deep core limbs and a straight grip, or ANY combination of all those differences/traits. Figure out your desired poundage, figure out how you want your bow to look, figure out what type of grip is comfortable to you, and take it from there. A 68" Hill style and a 58" hybrid with a pistol grip are two different animals.
As a personal recommendation, to get a taste for longbows and a 'middle of the road' experience as far as characteristics, I would look for a 62-64" mild r/d style bow with a low to medium low-wrist locator grip. This should prep you for going to either extreme when concerning longbows- short radical hybrids VS long classic Hill type bows. Some possibilities new or used would be a Bear Montana, Samick Verna, Sky Longhorn or Trophy Pro, Toelke Whip or Super D, Wes Wallace Royal, the various r/d bows by JD Berry, New Wood Vanguard or other models, Martin Savanna, Kustom King Black Forest longbow, and many others.
ya know bob, i was thinking if youre in buffalo you should swing by TT archery club in amherst.
they host a cabin fever traditional shoot in mid february, i go every yr. i'd be glad to hook up with you and help you if i can.
great place to see several different bows, folks will be more than happy to let you shoot their bows and pick their brains.
good food too.....
Lots of good advice from above.
Hook up with some folks in NY and go to that shoot in Feb.
And try every bow you can get your hands on....
The search and anticipation is part of fun....
Good luck and welcome to your new home....
The Trad Gang classifieds are my "buy and try" resource. I can buy a much nicer bow for the same price by buying used and if it doesn't ring my bell, it goes back up for sale, making for a very low cost long-term trial.
As Kevin mentioned, Double T Archery shoot in Feb. would be a good place to start. You can go there just as a visitor if you do not care to shoot.
www.doubletarchery.com (http://www.doubletarchery.com)
Of course trying before you buy is a great option - but if that's not a possibility for you - the classifieds are a great place to get some good deals on used bows.
If you're looking for something brand spanking new, Maddog Archery builds pretty darn nice custom longbows and are priced right in your price range (and they're a sponsor).
I have heard nothing but excellent things about Mike's bows, sounds like you get one heck of a bow for your money.
Guys thanks for all of the good information and recommendations. Will definitely make plans to attend the shoot and pick your brains. I have hunted with a compound the last five years and love the shooting aspect of archery (similar to fly-fishing; I enjoy the casting as much as the catching). Traditional archery appeals to me in the sense of its simplicity with gear (at least less bells and whistles- the arrows and grain weights will require some studying) and requirement of practice. Looking forward to the work ahead
Look at Maddog archery website. I just ordered and received a 60" Prairie Predator custom longbow to my door for 275.00. Mike Mecredy is a great guy and will treat you right. By the way, the bow shoots awesome !
Hawkeye bowman club on clinton st in Alden has quite a few shoots each year. A lot of people shooting traditional there. Very nice place and great people. I'll drop you a pm when the next one will be if you like.
I would definitely buy used because you can get a lot more bow for your money. And if you don't like it you can resell it without taking too much of a hit.
As far as wich specific model or type of longbow to get that is very personal.
Basically you have three different types:
Hill Bows: straight limbs, create a classic D shape when strung, lower performance and can have some hand shock.
Mild Reflex/Deflex: when the bow is unstrung there will be a slight curve in the limbs. When strung up it will take a classic D shape. Good performance, mild if any hand shock, and a good compromise between a hill bow and a hybrid.
Hybrid: heavy reflex deflex, usually a shorter bow, keeps it's reflex deflex shape when strung. Highest performance of the three, easy to maneuver in the woods because of its shorter length.
You will see reflex deflex abbreviated as R/D
There's a lot of different variations on those three types but that should get you started.
to the op ...
assess your wants, needs and practicalities first.
- what is your traditional archery experience?
- do you know your traditional archery draw length?
- at your trad draw length, what trad bow holding weight is reasonably comfortable for 2 seconds without a lot of shaking ("tremors" are no problem)?
- if this longbow is for hunting, targeting what kinda game?
- if hunting - stalking, ground blind or tree stand?
lastly, but most important, the arrow is functionally far more important than the bow - get the right arrows and what's left in yer piggy bank goes for the bow, NOT the other way around. if yer thinking about wood arrows for yer first trad go'round, that is NOT recommended. better to go with carbons or alums, in that order of priority.
what bow? most any modern material glass/wood longbow will be far better than you, the archer. it would be nice to get one custom built but if yer on a budget then reality sez go for an offshore bow to get into the game. there are practical considerations for the bow length (with concern for both your draw length and how you will hunt), holding weight, manoeuvrability, portability, stability, speed and overall performance - much of those factors will be predicated by the answers to the questions listed above. as an aside, a 3-pc t/d longbow has an advantage in changing holding weights, which is not only cheaper than having two bows, but you get to use the same familiar grip.
good luck and above all have fun.
Traditionalarcherysales.com
Talk to Len Busby about a used bow. He has some great deals and honestly represents the condition fo his bows. I have bought a few from him and all were great deals.
Chuck
The guys above have given you some great advice. I want to welcome you to Tradgang!
Thank you all for taking the time to steer me in the right direction. Looking at carbon vs aluminum arrows now. What do you recommend in terms of maker? Thanks
if you want ready to shoot arrows, just about any sponsor on here will supply you with a great arrow.
three rivers, kustom king come to mind.
for me,i like to get raw shafts , Gold Tip trad blems from big jims, and crest and fletch them myself. just more personal to me that way.
i shot aluminums for yrs and yrs but thet cant compare to a good carbon arrow.
read all you can about building and tuning arrows and have at it.
2x for carbons and Big Jim blems . Great arrows and a great price . Hold up better than aluminums in my opinion.
there were four basic arrow shaft materials - wood, glass, aluminium, carbon/graphite - there are hybrids of these materials, too.
wood is absolutely the most aesthetically pleasing for a stick bow hunter - and the least consistent in far too many ways. easily affected by the weather. not recommended for newbies and very casual bowhunters. but we all love 'em and we all shoot 'em.
dunno of any glass arrows available, but i had dozens of micro-flytes back in the 60's. a heavy shaft, reasonably durable, far more consistent than woodies in terms of static/dynamic spine.
aluminium's are easiest to get to fly well, the static and dynamic spine numbers are extremely consistent, can be purty light, easy on the piggy bank, but too easily prone to denting, kinking, snapping.
carbon/graphite shafting pretty much has it all except the aesthetics. they have very Very VERY diverse static and dynamic spine ranges, as noted by how they're spined in 15# groups - that alone sez something. their dynamic spine (flying out of the bow) is Much stiffer than their static spine (sitting on the bow). loading up the front end may not make the shaft as weak as you'd like, either. iow, if you go by a shaft maker's spine chart (even those for "recurves" or "trad bows") you may find those static spine range numbers are waaay too stiff for yer bow and you'll need to drop back one spine number, or maybe two.