As the title suggests, I'd like to try to make a few broadheads on my own. I would be mounting them to some home-made river cane shafts, that I have harvested myself. I'm figuring that making some out of metal would require a little less guidance/expertise than trying to knap some stone or glass (although I will eventually try to do this too).
So do y'all have some suggestions for me?
I have only basic hand tools to accomplish this endeavor. A friend has given me a few old files and a few saws-all blades to try to use and I'd like to be able to give him a couple as reward for his generosity. I've also heard of people using spoons to make them.
What are some suggestions for material, technique, reference material, etc.?
Thanks in advance for any and all help y'all are able to give me.
-Tony
Old circular saw blades. Once you mess around with a couple and figure out their weight:size ratio. You can get about 12 from one blade. Good luck!!
If you want to hunt with them , don't use spoons . I have I made some from 1/16" spring steel . The saw blade would be good as well .
X2 on the circular saw blades. I've made a few dozen now.
I've used grade 5 bolts. Heat and beat, then grind to shape. They end up right around 125 grains and 1 1/4 wide and strong and take a heck of an edge. No tempering or hardening is necessary.
They look cool too... with that hand forged look.
X3 old saw blades. New blades have carbide tips and cheap steel. If using new blades get plywood blade small teeth more blade. You can also get steel from janz for knife making in blanks that make several points, I have used their high carbine and O2 tool steel with great effect. I cut out my blades using a dremmel, it takes a couple of cutting blades but works well. Then I clean up on grinder. I use a single bevel and on this site was a how to on sharpening a grizzly bh. I use a like jig on my grinder to get my single bevel. Not a lot of money in my set up.
Use the saw blade, buy a Dremel tool with their cut off blade and go for it. Wear gloves / safety glasses and be careful !
ChuckC
I get the saw blade but what do you use for a ferrule/ attachment to the arrow? If anyone has photos that would be great?
QuoteOriginally posted by beendare:
I get the saw blade but what do you use for a ferrule/ attachment to the arrow? If anyone has photos that would be great?
Trade points don't have a ferrule, but are fitted into a slot in the shaft and then glued and wrapped into place. If you want a ferrule, some guys grind down a field point.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v450/Fletcher610/Arrows/PB280118.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Fletcher610/media/Arrows/PB280118.jpg.html)
I have some photos of my process but limited internet. Will post pictures tomorrow if you like. You can make tange for attachment or slot each to his own, I use slot. Pictures tomorrow
Thanks very much to all who have replied. Pics are welcomed and encouraged!!!
I think the saws-all blades he gave me are probably too flimsy to make very good points, but will definitely be on the lookout for the types of saw blades mentioned above.
You guys rock! :thumbsup:
Hello Tony. If you are wanting to make quite a few, I would try to find some annealed 1075 or 1095 spring steel. 50 thousands thickness would be about right although I prefer 40 thousands. Everyone says 40 is too thin but I have good luck with it. It is pretty soft to work with before being heat treated. After the points are shaped, you will need to heat to a bright orange and quench in light oil or water and then reheat to a straw color and quench again. They will work great. A lot of broadheads are made out of 1075/1085 steel.
Fletcher that's a incredible homemade broadhead!
I agree LC, but I can't take credit for it. It was made by a friend of Dean Torges and Dean gave me a few of them several years ago. They look to me to be punched with a die. I made up a couple arrows with them and that one took a nice deer a few years ago. FWIW, Abowyer makes a similar trade type head that I think will work beautifully.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v450/Fletcher610/Hunts%202011/PB040365.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Fletcher610/media/Hunts%202011/PB040365.jpg.html)
Tony,
I have had my best luck using old hand saw blades. I found that the circular saw blades had hard and soft spots depending on if they were overheated during their use. Yard sales and flea markets can yield dozens of trade points for just a few dollars. The buck in my avatar was taken with a saw blade trade point on a cane arrow, they do work :)
go to you tube. Plenty of video help there.
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Tradgang/13023b41.jpg) (http://s846.photobucket.com/user/miklvines/media/Tradgang/13023b41.jpg.html)
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Tradgang/028a2b4a.jpg) (http://s846.photobucket.com/user/miklvines/media/Tradgang/028a2b4a.jpg.html)
As usual, you guys are awesome! Giving me lots of ideas! Definitely digging the hand saw blade idea!
Mike V.- Those pix are very helpful! Who knows what goofy assed way I'd have tried to cut the shapes from a round blade. Lol. The pie shape just makes too much sense for me to have thought of it. :knothead:
Hi Gordon! Thanks for your input as well. I'm really not sure how much heat treating I'll be able to do, though. Right now, I just have a plumber's propane bottle torch. Would that work for these purposes, or would I be better off trying to make a "forge" of some kind?
Some Photos that I promised to upload yesterday.
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/JackSkinner/broadheads/DSCN1089.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/JackSkinner/media/broadheads/DSCN1089.jpg.html)
The jig I use on the grinder to get my 25 degree single bevel. The bracket holds the blank in place at a 25 degree angle. Then I quench a lot to keep the metal somewhat cool.
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/JackSkinner/broadheads/DSCN1088.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/JackSkinner/media/broadheads/DSCN1088.jpg.html)
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/JackSkinner/broadheads/JACKSPICTURES156.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/JackSkinner/media/broadheads/JACKSPICTURES156.jpg.html)
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/JackSkinner/broadheads/JACKSPICTURES179.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/JackSkinner/media/broadheads/JACKSPICTURES179.jpg.html)
And yes they work great
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/JackSkinner/Antelope%202012/Antelope2012008-1.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/JackSkinner/media/Antelope%202012/Antelope2012008-1.jpg.html)
The first couple I made I used a cold chisel to score the circular saw blade and broke out the rough points. Then used a file to shape, clean up and sharpen.
A 2 1/2"x1" triangle with a slot on either side or holes drilled on either side for securing with a wrap works well.
Do some more searches. From what I have read, you can do heat treating of the broadheads using first your torch and then your oven.
Good luck
ChuckC
I am not knocking what others are saying but dont over think the whole tempering thing. If you run your file down the blade and metal comes off really easy then the steel may be a little soft and wont hold a good edge, and may bend easliy. If you run your file down the point to sharpen and no filings come off well its to hard you cant sharpen in the field. I have soften too hard a point by heating and then just sticking in sand to cool and after completely cooling I then could get shavings off with file. Not very scientific but effective. The 02 tool steel I have used comes pretty hard, after cutting out with dremmel which heats up the steel, and grinding in my bevels which heats up the steel, I still find them a good hard steel that I can sharpen with file and hold a good edge. Old saw blades are softer but still hold a pretty good edge and are durable. I have only bent one so far on a miss that struck some very rocky ground. No head that I have shot into an animal has bent on bone.