Any you old school guys out their have any tips to pass on for tuning bear razor heads. I have a pile of them laying around and would like to put them to use but I can't seem to get them to compile with me. Thanks in advance
The old bear razor-heads that I use to use and still occasionally do use were installed on my cedar shafts with hot-melt glue. With the glue still pliable, I would spin the broadhead on a piece of plate glass watching for any slight wobble of the shaft just behind the broadhead. If the shaft wobbled, I used a pair of slip-joint pliers to rotate the head while the glue was still pliable (sometimes I had to reheat the glue) then spin the shaft again while checking for wobble. I repeated this process until the shaft spun perfectly true.
I have a pile of them that are threaded they seem to me to be straight on the shaft but no consistency when set down range
Send them my way
sorry buddy no can do if I cant get them to tune I'll just through them in my vintage broadhead collection
I know someone on here still hunts with razor heads that have threads or have had thread adapter installed in them.
Try shooting them cock feather in.....see what happens.
Mount them so that the blades are horizontal AND spin true. That way they won't act like a rudder on the front of the arrow as the arrow goes through its initial paradox. Then if they don't shoot well you will know that the problem is your shaft spine and not the head.
A small o-ring will make it possible to screw the broadhead in or out bit so that you can get it horizontal. Of course the horizontal mount is easier to do with hot melt glue, but if your adapters are set in epoxy the o ring works OK.
I agree, apply hot melt on wood shaft taper, heat head a little (Warm to hot), put head on with pliers, turn a full turn to spread glue and align by sight or roll across a flat cutting board (12" wide) and watch for wobble.
Hint: some heads have a point the may not align perfectly with the ferrule, touch it up with a file. You can also push the head into a board and hold until the glue sets. You might use a damp towel to cool head and get glue to setup. Clean out slot for insert. Since inserts are hard to find, I don't practice with them installed. Sharpen with a file, or wheel sharpener (Rada).
I just love those heads and they seem to fly great for me. Make sure your arrows are tuned to the bow any discrepancy there will show up with a broadhead on the end.
K thanks guys I'm getting on this as soon as I pick some o rings up tomorrow. Thanks again guys
I just get within fifteen yards, they seem to fly though the animal just fine.
I've hunted them a lot and found them to be one of the easier broadheads to tune out of my rigs. As stated above, when you glue them up with adapters make sure they are spinning true and adjust as needed prior to whatever glue you're using sets up. Did you glue the adapters in yourself or did you pick them up with adapters already glued in them? Do you know if they all have the same adapters in them, long or short? I've always used the short adapters and have always shot them without bleeders. Just threw 6 of them on my scale and they weighed up anywhere between 140 and 145 gr with the adapters glued in. Great heads, easy to sharpen with nothing but a file and penetrate deep. Put down many critters with them over the years.
On the Bear Razorhead, the factory used epoxy to install the inserts and it is not uncommon for these to be mounted crooked. You'll need to heat the head up (I use a propane torch) until the epoxy softens enough to remove the insert from the ferrule. This is a stinky job!
Also, it is not uncommon for the indentions in the ferrule for the bleeder blade (at the back of the head) to be inset a little too deep. When this is the case, it is nearly impossible to get an insert glued in properly so that the arrow will spin true.
I bought a ream (5° taper) and only have to make a few turns in the ferrule, by hand, in order to knock the high spots off of the indentions.
After a "dry run" to make sure the head spins true, I then use hot melt glue to install the insert permanently.
Once straight, I have never had any flight problems (no matter the blade alignment, horizontal, vertical or even caddy whompus).
I'd suspect a spine issue. I've never had a problem getting Razorheads to fly cleanly once I get them spinning true.
I use them, they're great as stated above. I have used them horizontal, vertical, and everything in between, I have never checked their straightness, if the arrow is tuned you shouldn't have any problem, check your arrows.
QuoteOriginally posted by knobby:
I'd suspect a spine issue. I've never had a problem getting Razorheads to fly cleanly once I get them spinning true.
I agree.
Never had a problem with them,did you spin test them on the shafts to see if they are in alignment,are you using them on wooden shafts if so you may need to retaper the arrows but what ever arrows you are using spin test them to see about alignment.
I would also suspect a spine issue. Razorheads are the easiest broadhead I've ever found to tune. I'd suggest bare-shafting whatever arrow you are going to use to make sure they are flying well with a 125 - 145gr field point, fletch one up, add broadhead , and see how it flies.
Could be as simple as adjusting the nock on your string up or down. But only make a slight adjustment each time. I am shooting them out of my 45# Super Grizzly on 1916's and they fly awesome.