Who is using 340's and how much weight do you have up front? my bare shaft tuning is showing stiff with a 75gr insert and 165 Simmons/170fieldpoints. I'm using Easton Axis Traditionals cut to 30" with 3, 4or 5 inch feathers. Thanks for your input, I'd really like to hunt with this bow one day when it's all tuned up nicely.
what # bow are you shooting, and what brand bow? The reason I ask is some are cut closer to center or even past center. All of these play into factor here.
Wes Wallace Mentor, 56lbs@28" His wesite says it's cut 3/16ths past center with a 7 1/2" brace height. Right now I have the brace set at about 7 and 3/4"
I shoot Beman ICS hunter 340s out of my Fedora 560.
61@30
31 1/2" 100g insert, 200 broadhead, 3-5" feathers
Right at 620 grains.
Sticken. did you bare shaft them ? I have a very similar set up 62@30 ( i pull to 30.5") RER LXR
using Beeman ICS Hunters 340's, full length, with 50 grain insert and 175 grain head. They act as if weak to me.
ChuckC
It should be stiff; my WW bows generally are on the lower side of the curve when it comes to spine, especially if you have a strap-on quiver on the bow. That bow is probably going to need a .400 spine arrow that length. Even a .500 spine might work if you are barely drawing 28" and if you cut them 29".
I shoot Axis Traditional 340's cut to 30 1/2 with roughly 275 grain tip/insert/adapter combo. I'm using a 62@29 recurve. Did not bareshaft, but paper tuned at 5 steps and appear to fly great! Used this setup to kill 2 whitetails this year.
Based on my experience/results I'd agree that your arrows are slightly stiff. Maybe you could slap a 225 grain tuffhead on there or a similar heavier broadhead.
I'd like to avoid having to chop my arrows, I'd like to bump up my point weight but I don't know how much to bump too. I've spent way too much on these arrows to just scrap them all and buy all new 400 spines. I'm not so far off the mark that hopefully a point increase will fix it. Now I'll have 4 brand new Simmons 165's to get rid of. I should probably just order the field points and go from there, so I won't waste money and too heavy or too light of broadheads
Try some 100 grain inserts and a 200 grain head on them, or even a 250. I'm sure you can get them to tune, though they might be heavier than you like. I don't like fence post arrows, myself, and like to stay at 10gpp or a bit less.
What is a fence post arrow, I've never heard that before ?
QuoteOriginally posted by ChuckC:
Sticken. did you bare shaft them ? I have a very similar set up 62@30 ( i pull to 30.5") RER LXR
using Beeman ICS Hunters 340's, full length, with 50 grain insert and 175 grain head. They act as if weak to me.
ChuckC
Chuck, I have an XR and LXR and very similar draw and pounds w/ total of 220-225 grains up front. I had to go to 7595 Gold Tips to get them to bare shaft. I am surprised stringpuller's 340's are showing stiff.
What is your actual draw length and the string type including the number of stramds?
Are you using wraps? If so, then what do they way?
I shoot 340s full length with 425 up front. My bow is 60@28 shoots very well. I think by cutting them your making them to stiff for your bow. I would try full length 340 with more upfront weight. With your bow shooting 56lbs you might have to go with 400s. Good Luck
Gilbert
mfx classic 340, 29.75", 75 grain insert, 175 grain tip. Silvertip recurve, ff string, approximately 62# @29", elevated rest.
I am shooting Axis 340s 29.75 200 up front out of a 57@28 pronghorn ferret drawn to 28
JD. Mine fly fine with feathers, but as I said, they act weak bare shafted as full length unless I back off to only around, say, 175 total grains up front or a little less even.
I thought I was weird but if you get that too then I am not weird, ( or not weird alone !).
Thanks
ChuckC
I shoot GT 75/95 black arrows, full length, with a 100grn insert and 300grn heads. I use 2 x 5" parabolic fletching out of the bow listed below. I get great flight from this setup.
"Fence post arrows;" as in, heavy as a fence post.
It seems I need to up my point weight. Where would a good starting point be, 200? 250?
I am shooting a 60 pound at 29 recurve, and had to go up to 300 spine shafts cut at 30 1/2 inches with 225 grainsup front. The bow is cut to center and my drawl is right at 29 inches. Look at the back third of your arrow behind the markings and if you're getting contact there, yourArrow is too weak. I noticed this on the gold tip woodgrain shaftseven shooting the 300 spine at full links and had to cut them down accordingly. The 340 gold tip 7595's were very terrible at this even cut down to 29 inches. Once I got the shaft cut downto the proper length on the .300's I get zero contact great bareshaft and great Broadhead flight. Plus they hit like a hammer. I know people try to say you're shooting too stiff a spine in general shooting a trad bow and anything stiffer than a 400 shaft, but the reality is cut past center equals much stiffer arrow need
QuoteOriginally posted by ChuckC:
Sticken. did you bare shaft them ? I have a very similar set up 62@30 ( i pull to 30.5") RER LXR
using Beeman ICS Hunters 340's, full length, with 50 grain insert and 175 grain head. They act as if weak to me.
ChuckC
ChuckC, I did bare shaft them. The bow is cut just to center with a fairly thick velcro sideplate. Kinda surprised me too.
Going to a fast flight skinny string could be an option in lieu of scrapping the arose. Assuming you couldn't get them tuned with point weight adjustments.
I love spell check!!
I am in same boat with a silver tip curve, 400 axis and seem to be weak. Got some 340s on order to try though for right now and rest of season I just backed down in point weight.
Have you tried a 400 out of yours?
Thanks for all your input. This is my 3rd attempt at buying a recurve and all the stuff to go with it, getting frustrated and selling it all off online. I feel like there's so many more variables and tweeks needed between string bows -vs- my compound bows. Everytime I sell my string bows I say I'm never buying another one and just sticking to my wheel bow......but the string bows are just so much more rewarding to shoot, I'm sure you ALL know what I'm talking about. I'll keep at it, I really like this Wallace bow and it's shoots accurately enough now for hunting, but I'm looking for that perfect match up between bow and arrow. Right now it's like trying to play music on a piano with all they keys working but they're not in tune......the song just sucks
I just calculated my arrow FOC at 18.8
Bumping up my point weight will also bump that up, I see many people on here shooting set ups with FOC's in the 20's so its probably a good thing.
I am with you in your frustration not having a perfect flight arrow but it is fun playing around a little. For me I must acknowledge that my release/form is still not perfect so that will influence my shots. I am shooting similar: A WW partner, 56# @ 29, 16 strand ff string. 7595 trad gt, 30 " 275 grain with insert up front. Pretty good flight for now with 5" feathers.
Stringpuller: I'll just say again what I've come to experience after having perhaps a half dozen of his recurves over the years. His bows shoot great, but they don't seem to be on the upper end of the performance scale. He builds them for shootability and durability, but they always seem to take a bit weaker spine at similar weight than the bows of my buddies, who shoot Widows, Welch bows, etc. I don't think his windows are cut really far past center compared to some, and so need somewhat lighter spined arrows. The stock strings that come with them are a bit heavy, and as many have said an aftermarket string might be the ticket. Get some 200, 250, and even 300 grain field points and play with them, and also play with brace height. I usually end up around 8" on mine; my current 60" Mentor is at exactly 8" now. Good luck.
I shoot 340 Aftermath full length (I think 32") with 250 up front from a 55@30 Tall Tines Recurve.