I am trying to tune some beeman ics hunter 400's. they are cut to 30 inches. with 190gr. feild tips. they are hitting the target tail high everytime. my set up is a hummingbird 56lb longbow. should i cut some off the nock end?
elkboy.
Nope , they are most likely too stiff for that bow, try 225-250 up front and you will get better results.Do not try and bareshaft like you are. With Trda bows it is very tough as ya need a great release and a real consistent material to shoot then in to. TRy to bareshaft by how they group compared to fletched shafts. If ya are left and a RH shooter they are stiff and vice versa, grouping up and down is a nock height issue. Go to the A+H arcery site for help with tuning by the planig method. Shawn
like Shawn said go to A&H in the sponsors list and use the tuning info there. IT WORKS !!
sounds like a low nocking point right now, tho
3 questions:
Does 3 rivers make brass inserts for beeman ics hunters? i do not see that arrow listed.
At what range should i be shooting at?
With my arrows hitting tail high. is my knock too low or two high? i have heard both answers
elkboy
3R does offer the brass inserts; they delivered mine yesterday. Any standard carbon expres/beman/easton carbon shaft will take the same brass inserts.
And my Beman 400's are 31" long out of a 53@30" BW PMAII, and they like 250 up front. Try to get about 225 on up and see what happens.
Shoot out a ways; I bareshaft out to 25 plus.
And tail high means nock is too high, unless you are severely off in nock point or spine.
Try a nock point 3/16 to 1/4 above center of the zero point on a bow square.
See ya,
Marc
The easiest way to find out if your on or off and what direction to move (spine or bh or np) is to start at an obvious extreme end. LIke say 1" high and creep your way down. This what there is no questioning you are to high or to low, you know, the question is how much.
If you can find it, Bill Matlocks tuning guide goes into this and is definatly a different way of looking at things. And not to mention it works quite well.
The biggest thing in tuning is finding a system and being patient enough to make it work.
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At what range should i be shooting at?
If I think I'm anywhere near the right setup I'll start at 15 yards. If I don't have a clue I'll start at 10. Once things look good at that range I start backing up. Distance magnifies errors. I'll normally finish up at 30 yards.
I tune like Shawn described, comparing bareshafts to fletched shafts. When I'm happy with how that all looks I switch to comparing how fieldpoints and broadheads group in relation to each other (fletched arrows only).
Once you understand what's really going on, it doesn't take much time to get things grouping and flying great.
are 4 inch feathers adequate for a 30 inch arrow out of a modern longbow or do i need to have 5 inch feathers?
um...im no expert but tail high as far as I know isnt a too stiff/too weak problem...thats a nocking point thing...lower it...if the arrow is flying straight but landing tail high then just lower the nocking point...then after your done try shooting it with some fletched shafts and see if they group together...thats what ive learned...I did 2 bows today...both now shoot a bareshaft straight and group with the fletched arrows too