Okay guys I want to get some cedar shafts what spine would you recommend for a 50# bow..some say I need to go up at least 10# pound in spine....?
Need more info.
Draw length?
What kind of bow?
Pound at your draw length?
What weight heads you looking to use?
Dacron or FF?
Okay bud, I have a 26 inch draw,
bow weight is 50 pound @ 26
it is a palmer recurve
it has fast flight string
I want to shoot 125 grain heads
Prolly 60-65 depending on how the shelf is cut.
I'd guess like Prairie Drifter so far. As Bud is wondering, is there a point weight, weight range, and/or arrow length you have in mind?
I'm thinking (and many others here know much more), that 60/65's at 27.5 or 28", with a 125 or so point, would be close, but that's guessing at center cut or very close to it.
I'd say get a test kit from one of our reputable sponsors (they all are) and start the group at 45 working up to 64.
2 in the 45-49 range
2 in the 50-54 range
2 in the 55-59 range
2 in the 60-64 range
each cut to 27" bop with 125gr heads.
My guess would be, depending on the bow make/model, you'd be in the 50-55 range due to the shorter draw. Especially if you shot arrows at the 27" bop length.
Arrows cut to 28" 55-60 and you should be close. I would leave them long to start and work your way down.
And ask the bowyer about his recommendation. He'll know exactly how close to center the shelf is cut.
Stu's spine calculator! For me, dead on every time.
Would you bare shaft test them or just shoot with feathers and look at point of impact....
Another vote for 55-60
I go without the bare shafting on woodies, Iv'e broken too many doing that :) .
Denny
If you called me and told me your set up I would suggest 60-65. Most recurves will shoot 10 to 15# over their bow weight. I have never bare shafted, but I know a lot of people do. My feeling is I would never get on an air plane without wings.
Okay guy,s I contacted mr. Palmer my bow is cut 3/16 past center.. he told me to get 70 or 75 spine arrows he said my bow puts out a lot of energy and it needed 15 to 20 spine over to shoot well...what you guys think now
He knows his bows. A test kit would still be the best option.
That's what I am thinking too..bud
Order 55-60 spine, there will be enough variation in that dozen. Find which ones shoot best and put them on your home made spine tester.
Seriously, 55-60 spine from a reputable place will be just right for you.
Thank,s gusup I will give it a whirl and see....
If it's cut past center, 70-75
Drifter it is 3/16ths past center
OK, I would buy a testkit with several spinevalues. Write on the shaft which spinevalue it is.I would buy three shafts for every spinevalue.
Then start shooting and find out what spine works the best for YOU and YOUR set-up and particular form.
Don't forget to shoot at big distances, like 50 yards. A big distance will tell you everything how well the arrow flies.
Keep the test-kit for future tuning, every archer should have such a kit and it is only a small investment.
My 5 cents...
Thanks Dutchman yea I am in the process of buying the test kit
Mr Palmer has been building that bow for how long? I think I would stick to his suggestion.
Please go with Dutchmans suggestion,also make sure of your shooting form and back tension,I think that's one reason WY you hear of people shooting arrows 30 and 40 pounds over spine for there set up.
Okay if I get a test kit, they come in 11/32... question is when I find the right spine, I then want to make some in a tapered shaft, is there any difference in 11/32 and tapered shafts also the test kit comes with 3 5inch feathers...I shoot 4 4 inch feathers is any of this gonna change things once I find the right spine, and the make my own from tapered shafts....?
Okay if I get a test kit, they come in 11/32... question is when I find the right spine, I then want to make some in a tapered shaft, is there any difference in 11/32 and tapered shafts also the test kit comes with 3 5inch feathers...I shoot 4 4 inch feathers is any of this gonna change things once I find the right spine, and the make my own from tapered shafts....?
The spine difference with the tail taper is quite minimal... a pound or two, as I understand. I don't think the fletching difference will have any visible affect on the spine, maybe just a hair different in flight, maybe for the better with the 4 fletch.
Times two :)
Yah stick to someone on the web suggestion instead of the bowyer that's been building your bow for what, near 40 years. That's sound advise in my book.
Nope taking mr. Palmer into consideration, gonna get..55-60 65-70 and 70-75 and see what shoots best for my setup. ..
Might as well get 60-65 also......cover all the bases.
You are right Ron better to cover all bases the first time...
That's the way to go! No matter how experienced a bowyer is, he can't judge your form without seeing you shooting. And I respect Mr. Palmer highly!
Give 10 skilled archers the same bow with the same poundage and I wouldn't be surprised if they all came out with a different set-up.
My friend Hubi and me are experienced archers and we both have a high ranking in the 3D tournaments.
Nevertheless we both have a total different set-up for exactly the same bows. While we shooth them equally good. There is just no general rule.
Tuning a bow to perfection is a personal matter, because no form or shooting style is the same.
And a tuning set is a must-have in my opinion.