I'm currently using a 66" longbow and am having trouble in tree stands. What length do you tree stand hunters have good luck with?
74"...
56" Super Shrew Classic Hunter works great for me. I've used my 68" Howard Hill longbow before, but it's only good in certain trees for me.
I've hunted from tree stand with a 72" long bow with no trouble. You just have to check the clearances all around you.
Any bow will be easier to manuver on flat ground opposed to a tree. Try to build your treestand around your bow instead of vice versa. I use a 60 inch bow in trees.
QuoteI've hunted from tree stand with a 72" long bow with no trouble. You just have to check the clearances all around you.
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"Seen any deer yet?"
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:biglaugh:
I use a 64" longbow with no problem.
toby it depends on the tree but first thing you do after getting your safety strap tight get your bow and do a whole bunch of practice draws in every direction so you can get an idea what shot to wait for if a deer comes through,,,, I already know I have a few angles I can't really make so I just avoid that shot and wait for a better shot if something shows up.
but its not a bad idea to have the shortest bow you can shoot on the rack with the others for those times when the 66's bottom limb is just too long for that stand.
I think it's a very personal thing, it depends a lot on your height, arm/draw length etc. and your ability to be aware of where your bow is during the shot, not to mention whether you shoot out of an open stand or a stand with a rail. I know I could probably shoot out of a stand with a 68" bow no problem as long as there weren't any interfering tree limbs around. However, I'd much rather have something more like 56-60".
My prescription for you is a 56" Java Man Elkheart! :D :D :D
This is the bow that was designed to go where Long bows won't go.
http://shrewbows.com/shrewclassic.htm
(http://shrewbows.com/2007_images/Classic1_opt.jpg)
I have almost all 64" longbows with a couple 66". I dont have any trouble shooting from a tree stand with these any more than a 58 or 60". It's all about mindset and preparation and by preparation i dont mean trimming every branch around you. Its about planning how you position the stand
It definitely depends a lot on the stand you hunt out of. My 60" Shrew is a bit hard to shoot out of a hang on, but in my bigger ladder stand it's not too bad.
60" and under works, but I think 56" and under works the best. I've got a Kodiak Magnum that is short and sweet in stands.
I like a shorter now out of tree stands. I think I'm going to stay at 60" or less from now on
Short bow is an advantage in a stand, if you can shoot it well. It depends on whether you cant or like to shoot it straight up, too.
I have hunted bows from 66" down to 56" from tree stands and the 56" er is the way to go if you can shoot that length effectively, just so much easier to get clearance for a shot especially when sitting.
I occasionally do guided hunts and have to settle for something other than my Chippewa Wedge Lock. Ladder stands for me are especially challenging if you want to shoot sitting, and the 56" bow really worked well. I shot a 56" Thunder Child, great from blinds too ! You can make just about any bow work just depends on how much trimming you want to do but for me in a tree shorter is better.
I don't know how this all works itself out, but I found that a 60" bow of a different make was only one inch shorter when strung than my 64" recurve. I suppose that the arc of the limbs upon release could be a factor, too. But given that I shoot that 64" recurve so much better, and since a "short bow" was only giving me 2 added inches of clearance on each end, I decided to stick with the longer one that I shoot well.
I mostly hunt out of ladder stands,and the rails on the sides are a problem, especially on close shots.
Its a matter of draw length, what bow and then throw in personal opinion.
With that said I dislike limbs stacking and I have a relatively short draw length so I prefer 58" bows. Our woods is also very thick in spots I tend to like to set up and a shorter bow also makes it easier to move around while on stand and allows me to cut away less of my cover.
Just so happens my favorite hunting bow is 56". but with the new summit elite I purchased last year I dont have to worry about lower limb contact like I did with the old stand. My fine tooth saw takes care of obstructions above. There is no reason to give up your longest bow after taking a few precautions.
I shoot 64" -68" recurves out of all my stands, some are in the nastiest stuff ever. But you have to set yourself up and take some shots to make sure all is working.
I'm not a ladder fan, so I have never shot out of one....might be more difficult than a hang on to shoot a longer bow out of?
The only issue I ever had with a bow being too long was in Newfoundland hunting woodland caribou. Bottom limb kept getting hung up in the low tundra growth.
56"-66" bows, just have to more aware with the longer bows.
64" but it's in a very open tree, I'm sure I have some limitations that I might not have with a shorter bow, but I knew that going in and I have too long of draw for much of anything shorter. Pick your poison and go with it!
Always been a big fan of a 60" bow. Just seems to work the best for me.
Bill
I like 56" recurves and 58" longbows from a tree.
Ladder stands are not so bad but my Viper is a different story. The shortness of the KMag is definitely nice from it but I find if I keep the top and bottom halves of the stand closer together I can stand and shoot my 58" Grizzly from it from most directions.
My 68" longbows cause no trouble in tree stands, but you do have to remember to be careful to provide lower limb clearance. It is just a matter of adjusting the way you prepare for the shot. However, until you get used to it, I admit it can be annoying. Tree stand design is a factor, and I use the most simple ladder stands available. To be honest, I have never considered bow length to be crucial, but using longer length bows in the trees does require some practice.
Tree stand are a challenge, we have to use the wind direction and stand set up to be in position to shoot out the front side of the stand. I have a hard time shooting towards the tree I'm in anyway.
I have a Lone Wolf tree stand and a Summit Viper both are great stands and good for all day sits. I use my Wolf most of the time because its open in the front. I have a 58" Schafer Silvertip.
60" hybrid longbow 0r 58"-60" recurve. Anything less gives stack,finger pinch or both. In treestands some shot angles I cant and some I hold verticle. Be prepared for your tolerances before a shot opportunity arises. Bring some blunt tips to your stand and try some shots. Now if I could figure out a way to deploy some doe in heat with my blunts I could kill two birds with one stone lol.
QuoteOriginally posted by toby:
I'm currently using a 66" longbow and am having trouble in tree stands. What length do you tree stand hunters have good luck with?
toby, when i first started i was in the same scenario/predicament. I was hunting with a 66" longbow from a climbing stand that had the bar around the top and my first deer I saw in the stand, I didn't even get a shot at him due to my bow not having clearance. Some tips i would give you.
1. have the top of the stand lower than usual. I have mine where my knees were about 90*.
2. learn to shoot your bow on a slight cant(angle).
3. don't climb as high as you used to with a compound.
4. be sure you check the limbs ABOVE you, that is what got me.
the best advice I can give you is to practice with it. I know that it is frustrating learning, but it can be done.
I now have a 60" recurve that i primarily hunt with and it is a lot more convenient than the 66" longbow.
QuoteOriginally posted by DanielB89:
QuoteOriginally posted by toby:
I'm currently using a 66" longbow and am having trouble in tree stands. What length do you tree stand hunters have good luck with?
toby, when i first started i was in the same scenario/predicament. I was hunting with a 66" longbow from a climbing stand that had the bar around the top and my first deer I saw in the stand, I didn't even get a shot at him due to my bow not having clearance. Some tips i would give you.
1. have the top of the stand lower than usual. I have mine where my knees were about 90*.
2. learn to shoot your bow on a slight cant(angle).
3. don't climb as high as you used to with a compound.
4. be sure you check the limbs ABOVE you, that is what got me.
the best advice I can give you is to practice with it. I know that it is frustrating learning, but it can be done.
I now have a 60" recurve that i primarily hunt with and it is a lot more convenient than the 66" longbow. [/b]
Great response; for my Viper I ended up with these specifics:
Item 1. I go even a little more severe than 90Deg
Item 2. I ended up do that as well. Also find I need to hold for a spot about 6" lower than normal for the form I use in that Viper
Items 3 & 4: Yep!
Practicing out of the stand was definitely necessary. (having a second person on the ground to get your arrows is a very good thing too!)
When using my viper, I keep the top and bottom close together and I do not use the seat back against the tree. I have the lower seat straps adjusted tight where the seat is level with the bar it is attached to. Then I fold the back of the seat on top of the part you sit on, this allows you to keep the two parts of the stand close together and still be able to stand easy when the time comes. It also gives pretty good clearance for your lower limb when standing.
I favor the 54" Black Widow KB.... Treestand mobility issues are a thing of the past. Focus on the spot you want to hit and do it, no more mental churn and tree stand gyrations.... My 60" recurve can have clearance issues with my leg & chest on short range or higher stand heights...
QuoteOriginally posted by bruinman:
When using my viper, I keep the top and bottom close together and I do not use the seat back against the tree. I have the lower seat straps adjusted tight where the seat is level with the bar it is attached to. Then I fold the back of the seat on top of the part you sit on, this allows you to keep the two parts of the stand close together and still be able to stand easy when the time comes. It also gives pretty good clearance for your lower limb when standing.
I like it.