I really don't know if there is a rule about this or not. I really don's see much videos on here so if I am doing something wrong feel free to delete.
The first arrow you can see the bad flight. Then there is another third or fourth you can see bad flight and finally the last one bare shaft you can really tell. All the arrows are doing this now while I am shooting the look like they are doing a barrel role (clockwise). Knock point is kicking right. Feathers straiten the flight out right before impact.
Same story on what I am shooting:
Bear Super Kodiak at 50# It should be at 28" but I measured the weight on a rig I made for my bathroom scale so its really close to 50# at 26 3/4"
Arrows Gold Tip cut at 30" with 125 grains riding up front.
Why is it reading to stiff of a spine?
/Sigh
here's the link to the video
http://vid980.photobucket.com/albums/ae289/rlb220/Bow%20hunting%20and%20shooting/20141016_151652_zpszofyvhlf.mp4
Where's the video? and what size Gold Tips are you shooting?
So sorry I didn't put that in there. I must be tired they are .600
Yeah, they look too heavy to me. If I understand the chart correctly, they should actually be a little too week in spine, interesting. Do you have any heavier points you can try?
If not, It should be less than $20 to order a field point test pack and find out what weight head you need, then just replace your points...
Yeah, something is going on because even if I put a 250 grain field point up front they read heavy. All calculators say I should be shooting 500 spine. I am so lost.
the point is going left as soon as they leave the bow. they are stiff. try more point weight or build you strike plate out.
start here: http://www.acsbows.com/bareshaftplaning.html
then go to this:http://www.acsbows.com/finetuningbroadheads.html
it works!
So, you've tried a 250 grain head and they still shot as if they were too heavily spined?
Blaino, wouldn't building the strike plate out, do the opposite? From what I understand the farther from center you are, the weaker your shaft needs to be.
yes the 250 is giving him a false reading. something like 175 would be close....
building up the strike plat was if he wants to shoot 250g.... sorry for not being clear.
Sir,
It would help if we had a little more info such as your draw length, brace height and nock location height above parallel. The thing that I might point out would be "slow down" your shooting.
Regards,
Grouse
Seems like quite a snap when putting nock on the string, maybe too tight?
I will try all of the above, I just finished shooting 2 bare shafts and 2 fletched. The fletched are shooting really good with a few wobbles in flight, but that might be me. The bare shafts though are hitting low at 20 yards with the knock kicking to the right still. The link above says it should be knock point to high.
I added a 50 grain insert in the arrow tips which puts me at 175 up front. I will try lowering the knock point and also sanding some of the knocks as they maybe to tight.
My draw is 26 3/4" which on my scales jumps between 50 and 52# at that draw.
My brace height from the deepest point in the grip to the string is 7 3/4"
and the last one I have no clue lol
Sir,
A bow square is used to set your nocking point height. I would start with 1/2" and go from there for shooting three under. Your brace height should be around 8 1/2 " and depending on the sound and arrow flight you can go up or down roughly a 1/4". Hope this helps.
Regards,
Grouse
I agree with the above that you might try a 175 to 200 grain head...and then increase your brace height to at least 8 inches..maybe more. Increasing your brace height will weaken the spine of your arrow and should start to straighten out your flight. A 1/4 inch will make a significant difference.
I agree with the above that you might try a 175 to 200 grain head...and then increase your brace height to at least 8 inches..maybe more. Increasing your brace height will weaken the spine of your arrow and should start to straighten out your flight. A 1/4 inch will make a significant difference.
How many twist can I put in this string? I have already done a bunch last season. Is it possible this string is no good?
Could be a form issue... I watched your vid twice and it seems to me you are moving your bow-arm when releasing or moving to soon after release.
Try not to move till the arrow is in the target.
A too tight nockfit can cause false readings too.
All this seems to be excellent advice, but I would address the nock tightness before doing anything else.
Murray
Yes, I posted an update with all issues address. Everything is flying great with adjusting brace height, loosing the nocks, and adjusting the nock height. After all of that my arrows were shooting weak. With a little adjustment to the weight ends they are flying great. The 3 issues above all played a part but the nock height was giving me a false stiff spine reading and that is something I don't understand. You all were great help and I could not have done it with out you guys. I ordered some arrows cut at 27 1/2 so I can add some more weight forward and I am talking to a member here that has been helping me. Looking at buying a new string from him. Thanks again everyone.
If you think about it, the string is going straight forward...or mostly yet the arrow (because of the cut of the site window) is being driven to the left for a RH shooter. A tight nock is going to give a jerk at the release of the string kicking the nock end to the right or in to the bow.
I hate to say this now that you ordered some new arrows, but you should go with the 3555 or 500 spine. Your current set up with 175 is borderline and very light. YOu will be hard pressed to get her quiet.
BigJim