Been shooting since the 80's. Shot mostly Wes Wallace bows, 60-65#'s. Have always shot 2213, 2117, 2216's with ease. Have read all the tuning articles, ACS, Easton, Ken Beck's short video, etc.
Got a 64" Silvertip, 60# @ 32", some years ago. Put on a Bear weather rest, tuned some 32" Beman 400's with 100gr inserts (or 50gr, shoots em both), 145gr points/heads. Shot these since I've had it and they fly good.
I draw a full 31 3/4 to 32" (blessed with monkey arms). Lately I have wanted to go back to shooting off the shelf. Well that poses a problem with my arrow length needing to be 33". Picked up some 2117's, cut em to 33", 3 big 5" feathers. Bear rug rest, velcro side plate.
Fletched shafts kick up coming out and the straighten out. Bare shafts nock high no matter what I try. Bare shafts group with fletched out to 20yds., but nock high....like 30 deg or more. I have moved brace height, nock point, built out side plate, lighter/heavier points, shoot 3 under, split finger, changed strings, etc. Been so long since I've had problems, maybe I'm forgetting something?? Any suggestions appreciated.
With that set up,I think I would try the lightest point I could. You might be under spine?
QuoteOriginally posted by Alexander Traditional:
With that set up,I think I would try the lightest point I could. You might be under spine?
I was thinking these are too weak also, but are grouping with the fletched shafts, so has me confused. Usually shoot a 145gr head/point, tried some 100gr point with same result.
That's odd David. I'm no expert by any means. I'm shooting mostly 54@28 now,and I'm drawing a little over that,so I'm probably around 60 pounds. I just recently bought some 2117 Legacy arrows,and I'm wanting to try them out. Mine were cut to 31" when I got them off the classifieds. I'll get some going and try some different stuff,and let you know. Mine will be stiffer and I'll be shooting somewhere around the same poundage as you. I'll shoot some and let you know.
Rewatch Ken Beck's video he discusses some can not eliminate nock high.
How do fletched field points and broadheads group?
QuoteOriginally posted by katman:
Rewatch Ken Beck's video he discusses some can not eliminate nock high.
How do fletched field points and broadheads group?
Will watch the video again, I remember him saying that. Field points and broadheads group together.
Thanks for the responses.
If I swing draw, I will lapse into poor form and get this result. Just for experimenting, I tried raising my bow arm up towards the target before beginning draw. This helped me to regain good finishing form.
I draw over 30 inches but not as long as you do and I would be seriously underspined in your situation...I recently tried some 2117's with a bow that is a measured 46 pounds at 31 inches and they were weak even with 125 grains up front...betting you will find you need 300 spine arrows (2317 in aluminum) to tune properly depending on what you are using for a string (which my stringmaker and I have proven over and over is the biggest single factor in dynamic spine selection)...when you draw over 30 inches you need to politely ignore advice from people who do not
DDave
QuoteOriginally posted by Alexander Traditional:
That's odd David. I'm no expert by any means. I'm shooting mostly 54@28 now,and I'm drawing a little over that,so I'm probably around 60 pounds. I just recently bought some 2117 Legacy arrows,and I'm wanting to try them out. Mine were cut to 31" when I got them off the classifieds. I'll get some going and try some different stuff,and let you know. Mine will be stiffer and I'll be shooting somewhere around the same poundage as you. I'll shoot some and let you know.
I have done a lot of scaling of bows drawing over 28 inches and the one thing I know it that until you put the bow on a scale you have no real idea what draw weight you are shooting...like you I had a custom bow that was marked 54 pounds at 28 inches and it did draw 60 pounds at 30 inches gaining about 3 pounds per inch...I have four Bear Kodiaks built in 1960 and those bows gain no more than 2 pounds per inch...if you really want to get an education about a bow drawn past 28 inches take a look a Pete Ward's test of the Border Covert Hunter...try less than a pound per inch at that length
DDave
QuoteOriginally posted by damascusdave:
I draw over 30 inches but not as long as you do and I would be seriously underspined in your situation...I recently tried some 2117's with a bow that is a measured 46 pounds at 31 inches and they were weak even with 125 grains up front...betting you will find you need 300 spine arrows (2317 in aluminum) to tune properly depending on what you are using for a string (which my stringmaker and I have proven over and over is the biggest single factor in dynamic spine selection)...when you draw over 30 inches you need to politely ignore advice from people who do not
DDave
Tried some 32" ICS 400's and the nock was not as bad. Shot a 31 1/2" 250 spine Black Eagle carbon...no nock high, just too stiff. Looks like I will need 340 or 300 as you suggested. Thanks for the response.
I'll give that a look David. I know this bow puts them out there. I'm going to give the 2117's a try,but like you said I might have to try something else. I have some Heritage 250's that are already doing very well,but I just started tuning it. I'll check that book out,sounds interesting.