I am wondering what you fellas do to get those concave heads hunting sharp? I know there is a link in the "how to" forum, but I do not have all the tools(grinder, KME, not all the different rocks) to sharpen the way Chris does it.
Does anyone do anything different?
OR,
If there is something I should invest in that is on the lower price side, let me know. I can't see paying $100 for a sharpening system, whether it is worth it or not.
Too many kettles in the fire as it is.
I use the diamond stick that looks like a pen that goes on your pocket (or quiver, lol). I will follow the burr until I get the BH sharp. Once I get the BH sharp I will strop it on a leather strap, they will be plenty sharp. I had a lot of success with the Sharks last year, I hope to again this year, if there's any problems they won't be because of a dull Shark. Good Luck!!!
Rada and a chainsaw file are all I use.
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob W.:
Rada and a chainsaw file are all I use.
I use the RaDa and a ceramic rod... I find it good enough for my centaur big gameheads...
Three sided Jewel Stick
THe three sided jewel stick and the razors edge will get you shaving sharp. It will run you around 50 to 75. You really need a rounded file to sharpen them. I have heard of people using a chainsaw file also.
My Gatco Sharpening Kit has a triangle shaped stone for use on serrations. I use it on concave or convex broadheads.
I use the Simmons Steelmaster with good results. It comes with a file, two ceramic sticks and a jig to maintain angle. I can't remember how much I paid but pretty sure it wasn't near $100.
I use a 6in. mill bastard file. The kind without any teeth on the sides (you can get these from The Nocking Point). No teeth on the sides allows it to go around the curve easier. I've sharpened Tree Sharks and Safari for myself and Land Sharks for Mudd. Not much different than sharpening any other head with a file. Strop on a steel, leather or ceramic if you like. Gets them razor sharp & runs about $10 plus shipping.
I clamp them in the Arrow Head Guide then start with double cut file to cut down on some strokes and get the angle I want. Then readjust Guide and use a short, 2 sided, oval shaped, Jewel type stick. Fine on both sides I think. Then finish with light strokes with piece of broken ceramic I've got glued to an antler tip. Shaving sharp.
(http://www.tradgang.com/upload/charlie/RADASharpener.jpg)
Less than ten bucks.
QuoteOriginally posted by Charlie Lamb:
(http://www.tradgang.com/upload/charlie/RADASharpener.jpg)
Less than ten bucks.
Charlie,
I just ordered one. Is there anything else I should use with it?
do you happen to have a video of you sharpening yours?
thank you for all the replies fellas!
I have two of the Rada and I can never get a razors edge on them. I have followed all the instructions and still only a semi-sharp edge at best.
QuoteOriginally posted by DaveT1963:
I have two of the Rada and I can never get a razors edge on them. I have followed all the instructions and still only a semi-sharp edge at best.
Dave,
I am hoping thats not my case.
Have you tried finishing up with some type of ceramic or something like that?
I have a Steel Master and I have modified my Lansky. I think with the carbide draw through type sharpeners you have to use light strokes. If you put too much pressure on them it will ruin the edge.
I use the Rada on my Simmons heads...super quick and shaving sharp. Its not the longest lasting edge - but I only need it to last for one pass through. Then I can sharpen it again if I need to. I've started using it on my knives and Zwickeys as well.
I use very light pressure and I also angle the head - I still cannot get a razor's edge. I have used the archer's edge in the past and was able to get a sufficient edge with it - much better than with the RADA wheels - although I prefer a more polished edge then you can get with pull through sharpeners.
I think you're supposed to keep the head or knife straight up and down Dave when you draw it through.
I use the Rada on my Simmons heads...super quick and shaving sharp. Its not the longest lasting edge - but I only need it to last for one pass through. Then I can sharpen it again if I need to. I've started using it on my knives and Zwickeys as well.
Try this with the wheelie. Once you get the heads reasonably sharp, push them through from the front, angles upwards (opposite angle than pulling them through). This is with very light pressure. That is a tip I got from ChuckC, it works. I have used the wheelie on a bunch of simmons heads and it is quick and easy, though I have switched to Chris Spikes method. I know you don't want to buy more stuff, but the jewelstick and edge guide are for and away the best method, in my opinion. I have also used it to sharpen all my knives as well. Good luck, and let us know of you need more help.
Jake
So can we decide on the proper way to pull the heads through?
:dunno:
I am not necessarily trying to get them razor sharp and I don't think that is for the best, just thinking about why doctors use razor sharp knives, so they heal up quicker and leave minimal scarring. I want it sharp, but not crazy sharp.
I now have a round file that I file from back to front going away from the ferrule. Prior to that and often still do, I used the narrow flat of a ten inch file, pulling it while holding the file backwards and using the ferrule as a guide. I have found that the RADA wheel can be a weak edge on some heads, after killing a deer the filed edge holds up better on softer metal heads. You can tell when it is getting close the broadhead will have a soapy feel under the file. That is when you want to go with lighter pressure. I finish with a jewel stick and an old belt. I get a hair cutting edge that I would not want to shave with.
With some heads I use a Grizzly file only. The Grizzly files had the round narrow edge that can be used like a steel, but the cutting teeth end sharply and are very good for putting a fine saw toothed edge on a broadhead. That fine sawtooth edge, no matter how much better scalpel sharp is forensically shown to be, will cut arteries very nicely and leave good blood trails. I have never had masses of hair and fat get pulled along with the serrated edged broadheads and I have never lost a deer that I hit with one. Dr. Ashby wrote of how he lost two out of over 40 animals sharpening Hills with a file. A mule deer that got stolen before he got to it and a bear that dove into some boggy stuff and disappeared. On some heads like Deadheads and Grizzlies, I go with razor sharp and use different methods.