I've started this post many times over the past year. Always ended up deleting it before actually posting it...lol
Have you ever come across an arrow setup that shoots unbelievably well out of a variety of different bows? Its the one that you grab 3 or 4 and take them to try out a new bow. Something that just works in a bunch of different setups?
Well I have. Its a 30" AD Trad Lite with standard insert and 200 gr up front.
This arrow has astonishd me time and time again as shooting well from bows it really shouldn't.
I know the reverse taper concept is not without its nay-sayers, however, for me its hard to argue with what I'm seeing.
My question is: Is there a similar setup for you that just works (even when it shouldn't)?
I suppose it could if you shot the same draw weights and bow designs in all of your bows?
For me personally no. I have to use new setups.
Yes. I shoot the same arrow with 100 gr brass insert. Although I shoot it mostly from 1 bow I can shoot anywhere from 125 to 200 gr head and can't tell any difference. Very versatile and forgiving arrow in my experience.
Yes I agree for me it's a 2018 aluminum. It is the most versatile and strongest arrow I have ever used. Same length just vary the point weight and they fly great out of any bow I shoot.
For me it's been the GT3555. Granted my bows fall in a fairly small range - 43# - 48#, but I shoot the same arrows from all of them.
I also shoot a GT 3555 with 100 grain insert and 125 grain head (field tip or BH) from the bows listed in my sig line below.
I've seen that with tapered 75-80 Douglas fir. Even when they aren't quite right they still seem to look good off most everything I shoot in the 50-55 lbs. range.
I have shot CE 250's with 250gr. upfront with my last three bows. All within a few pounds but very different bows and center cuts. I always retune but end up in the same spot.
I use to sell AD shafts...never shot them. One day I decided to make up a 1/2 dz but no way was I going to leave them 30" with my 27" draw. It would screw up my split vision method of aiming.
So, I experimented. I cut them the same length as my 2117's and Woodies. I have 255 grains up front, used the adapter so I glued on a nock, put on 125 grain Zwickey. Total arrow weight 599-600 grains. I should point out these were AD Trad Lites.
They fly perfectly from my 55# Longbow, and perfect flight from my 52/57/58# Recurves. This with a crown dip and 5" parabolic feathers. I was impressed how easy it was to get these AD's to fly.
I shoot the same arrow for my hunting bows . 47-60lb bows They work real good in all of them but are great out of a couple of them. Fir shafts.
I shoot a 50# bow with two identical backups, same length same # same string. Same wood shaft flies perfect out of all three setups. :bigsmyl:
For me its a GT3555 with 50 grain insert and 29" long. Vary tip weight and it seems to shoot out of just about any longbow in the 47-53# range
2219's, cut 29.5 in in length, 200 grain point, will fly out of 9 of my bows, from 63# to 75#.
For me the Goldtip traditional 1535, 30.5 inch, 100 grains fieldtip, 12 grains insert and nock, three 5 inch shielded wild turkey feathers and a 9 inch hand painted cresting which adds another 15 grains to the back.
I putted one wheat eater line in which adds 55 grains.
Total arrow weight is around the 440 grains and a FOC of 10%.
Flies just about perfect from all my bows which are in the 45-50 lb range.
your going to find its almost always going to be a carbon arrow when it comes to "versatillity" for me its the heritage 150 with a 100gr insert,,,,, by changing the point I can shoot this arrow out of several bows I have from 44# recurve to 65# selfbow.
sometimes I'd have to turn the shaft so it shoots cock feather in sometimes I'll go from a 100gr point to a 300gr point but it will always be broadhead ready for many bows.
For me 55/60 spine wood arrows cut 28" shoot well out of my bows from 50 to 58 lbs. I do have to change the weight of the head sometimes. I don't like having to stock several different spine arrows if I don't have to.
I think a 2219 would do about the same thing for me at maybe 32 inches...however there is a more modern alternative that works even better and that is the 340 spine Full Metal Jacket left full length for a 600 grain arrow with 200 grains up front...even have the option of using the 50-75 grain break off HIT insert to use different weight broadheads for the same FOC...I have bows that will not shoot that arrow but they are relegated to play bow status and never hunted...I really do feel that the combination of aluminum and carbon gives the best of both worlds
DDave
Ken,
I've always had a similar experience with shooting Beman MFX or Centershot shafts. I keep full length 400's with a 50g insert and 125 and 225g tips and I usually get them to fly out of just about anything 45-55# as long as its center or close to centershot with just brace height and nock adjustment. For me this arrow is optimized for anything right around 50# so the range makes sense. Love me some 400 spine carbons.
I have found with cedar arrows that, if they are on the high side of spine for a given bow, the feather contact can mess up the arrow flight a little. With those, I can often get the flight I want by turning the cock feather in, which of course puts the vane of the nock in, which messes with my head, so I put on reversed nocks. I am guilty like many others of tending to set up arrows with too high a spine, the problem is then that only the strongest shots get the proper arrow flight. I often target 135 or 145 grain heads, just to find that I need to go to 160s in the end. Even Howard Hill did not always get full power out of his bows when shooting at game. I, at times do not either, so I always check to make sure that my arrow flight is good with a bit of a shorter draw when shooting with odd positions, like the bow on its side. For me, an overly stiff arrow shows up real quick when I shoot from my knees with the bow laid on its side. I know that I lose about 3/4" draw in that position, but it is all I have in me and I have had to shoot a number of deer doing just that. My go to arrow is a 27" bop 1918, I adjust by either using glue on or screw in inserts, that 25 grains makes or breaks the set up for any given bow that I have, but one or the other has always been right. My last dozen of Acme cedars and my first dozen of Surewoods are really messing with me, I just love it when wood arrows work as good as my go to shafts. I will probably save the 1918s for another day.
The beauty of center-shot bows. The greater the paradox, the more critical the spine.
Absolutely correct, my recurve has no trouble with 15 pound spine variances. The sighting difference between my longbows and center shot recurves causes trouble for me, but it is all what one gets used in a way and the style of shooting that works best for the individual. With Hill style shooting and Hill style bows it seems like the arrow likes to have something to fly around.
Dick Robertson said the same thing concerning his longbows. Perhaps that is why the recovery rate and forgiveness of a good wood arrow works so nice in a longbow.
I shoot the exact same arrows form all my bows - GT 55/75s - 29 inches long withe 215 grain up front. I do use various shelf and side plate materials to get them to shoot where I naturally look. I have paper tested them and they all are flying stright within 6-7 feet