What size O rings do some of you use to align your broadheads. I know it has been mentioned on here before about using tiny O rings to align broadheads. I was hoping to give it a try.
Thanks!
Kevin
Not really sure the size. The last time I got some I took a broadhead adapter to the hardware store and tried several out.
So do you put the o ring on the threads of the broadhead? when you screw it into the insert?
Just slide it over tbe threads and tighten it up to where you want. I dont use them. I put my broadhead on the shaft without feathers then noc it onthe string and turn the nocon the arrow to align the broadhead how I want, then I fletch the arrow up. Then normally number the arrow and broadhead so if I change to field point I know what broadhead goes to what arrow.
Turning the shaft only works on aluminums and carbons with concentric spine. If you are using a carbon shaft from any company other than Easton or Carbon Tech there could be as much as a 10 # difference in spine weight in a quarter turn of the shaft. It is a much better idea to dry fit and mark all of your components indexed as desired prior to gluing the insert.
Jeez...I've never noticed that much spine difference in a carbon bowhunter from Beman...just by turning the shaft a bit.
I understand what you're saying though.
I've always been able to trim them to the same length with same results.
Sorry. Beman does have concentric spine and are made by Easton. Running a carbon arrow on a spine tester is eye opening. A lot of trad shooters shoot a group the size of a pie plate and are safisfied when a simple turn of the nock could shrink their group to the size of a baseball. Of course my advice only helps if one is testing his arrows.
I didn't realize they were made by easton..no wonder they work..lol
Thanks for the post Jon.
Certainly could be the key to a puzzle that could be easily overlooked when pulling your hair out trying to figure why some of your carbons shoot well and others don't.
:thumbsup:
I don't like using O rings....any gap between the base of the insert and the base of the adapter/bhead has be come and even weaker link. I like a strong seated bhead with no room to start to bend for any reason.
QuoteOriginally posted by Terry Green:
I don't like using O rings....any gap between the base of the insert and the base of the adapter/bhead has be come and even weaker link. I like a strong seated bhead with no room to start to bend for any reason.
Yeah I agree, that makes sense. I was just going to see if it made a difference in shooting/groups etc...
Thanks for the advice fellas!
I never understood exactly how an O-ring was supposed to correct braodhead alignment...either the threads are cut straight and centered in the insert ot they're not. What am I missing? I do see how it might help keep the threads tight, but I put string wax on them and it does a fine job.
Olddog, the O rings don't can't help if the broadhead is off center but they can help align the blades to the way you like to shoot. For example, I like to shoot my two blade heads with the blades horizontal. With an O ring I can tighten them up and still have the blades horizontal.
I do like the idea of putting on the blades and adjusting the nock before fletching and then index the feathers accordingly. Makes sense if you are doing new shafts like I am this week.
QuoteOriginally posted by Terry Green:
I don't like using O rings....any gap between the base of the insert and the base of the adapter/bhead has be come and even weaker link. I like a strong seated bhead with no room to start to bend for any reason.
I was thinking the same thing.When I want to orient broadhead blades a certain way,I either do that when I install the insert in the shaft or if that was done previously,I do it when I mount the glue-on broadhead on the adapter.This screws the broadhead down tight-metal on metal.
QuoteOriginally posted by olddogrib:
I never understood exactly how an O-ring was supposed to correct braodhead alignment...either the threads are cut straight and centered in the insert ot they're not. What am I missing? I do see how it might help keep the threads tight, but I put string wax on them and it does a fine job.
Not alignment....but blade orientation.
Saw a post on another site. Guy cut o ring size slivers from pastic tubing. Like aquarium hose. Find the right size and you get lifetime supply for under a buck. I use floss to get broadheads all horizontal (a mental sight picture thing) but will try hose soon.
QuoteOriginally posted by shed hunter:
Just slide it over tbe threads and tighten it up to where you want. I dont use them. I put my broadhead on the shaft without feathers then noc it onthe string and turn the nocon the arrow to align the broadhead how I want, then I fletch the arrow up. Then normally number the arrow and broadhead so if I change to field point I know what broadhead goes to what arrow.
I go one better than this. Glue up a broadhead then align the nock to place the head in your desired position. Then screw that head onto your other shafts and align all your nocks the same as the 1st one. Then glue up your remaining heads using the nocks as the alignment reference. If you do this any head will go on any shaft and be aligned the same.
QuoteOriginally posted by shed hunter:
Just slide it over tbe threads and tighten it up to where you want. I dont use them. I put my broadhead on the shaft without feathers then noc it onthe string and turn the nocon the arrow to align the broadhead how I want, then I fletch the arrow up. Then normally number the arrow and broadhead so if I change to field point I know what broadhead goes to what arrow.
I go one better than this. Glue up a broadhead then align the nock to place the head in your desired position. Then screw that head onto your other shafts and align all your nocks the same as the 1st one. Then glue up your remaining heads using the nocks as the alignment reference. If you do this any head will go on any shaft and be aligned the same.
Olddog, the O rings don't can't help if the broadhead is off center but they can help align the blades to the way you like to shoot. For example, I like to shoot my two blade heads with the blades horizontal. With an O ring I can tighten them up and still have the blades horizontal.
I do like the idea of putting on the blades and adjusting the nock before fletching and then index the feathers accordingly. Makes sense if you are doing new shafts like I am this week.
I've tried what Clint described before.
..Didn't work for me.
Each of my b-heads had a different alignment when screwed down.
is a good idea though..your b-heads must be more uniform than mine..lol
I bought the black o-rings from 3-rivers. I like them and they allow me screw down tight and then orient my abowyer brown bears straight vertical. For me, that helps me line up my shot. Slip them over the threads and the base of the ferrule and snug them up against the base of the blades. But BE CAREFUL! One slip and you could loose a fingertip.
For 3 blade screw ons I use a nail stuck straight up in a board "method"
Lay your fairly thin piece of wood with the nail in it on a table.
Screw in a field point almost all the way.
Heat the point till the insert glue is soft ( I use hot melt)
Unscrew the point (pliers are nice for this)
Screw in the b-head.
Place the nock around the nail.
While on the nail, lay the b-head on the table.
It will align the head for you.
Nock one way for a 'Y" orientation.
Nock the other way for a " ∆ " orientation.
If you like your heads canted differently you can just bend the nail over a bit.
You can do it for glue ons too...just gotta be sure you re straighten the head.
Picked this idea up from Kirk.
I quit using the black O-rings for bh alignment years ago when I bent two adapters in the broadhead after they passed through the deer. In both cases the arrow struck the shoulder blade of the deer. I contacted the manufacturer and told them exactly what I was using. He told me that he has seen this before from others who had used the O-rings. Something to do with the bh not seating securely behind the inserts and allowing for a little bit of movement when it hits a hard object like bone. I do think they are great for keeping field point secure on shaft though. This of course is just my experiences, and I have not had any problems since.
QuoteOriginally posted by Zradix:
I've tried what Clint described before.
..Didn't work for me.
Each of my b-heads had a different alignment when screwed down.
is a good idea though..your b-heads must be more uniform than mine..lol
Did you screw all your adapters onto the nock indexed arrows then glue and align the heads? You need to screw the adapters. on with the same torque too. Done correctly, this method can't not work.
OH ...I'm hearing ya now Clint.
You're talking adapters..
I was just orienting the INSERT in the same method I described above....no adapter.
Even after doing that, changing head from one arrow to the next can be hit or miss.
There must be some slight variation in the base "length" between the heads so some of them need to be turned a hair farther to seat.
I can see how your idea should certainly work with the adapters.
Since everything is screwed down ..THEN glued. So all the base irregularities are taken out of the equation.
Now I get it!
Just takes me a little while to understand good ideas..lol
:thumbsup:
Thanks,gotcha. I'm a little slow in the my old age. Blade orientation I understand, but that wan't where my mind went. I do the same thing, but generally get them close at insert installation and then pick out the best when I install the heads.
I heat up the ferrel on the broad head and spin it until it is where i want it. I use the low heat hot melt (blue stick) on my carbons it works very well and makes things easy
kelley- yes, it won't work with factory screw in heads since the thread/blade alignment could be any where. For them you would be stuck with a certain head with a certain shaft. It works great with heads glued onto adapters since all those alignment variables can be eliminated.
I don't like using o rings I seemed to bend heaps more adapters and striped the threads of inserts when useing them so I swapped to diffrent thickness fiber washers Even used diffrent thickness of paper to get them perfict but now I dont worry about broad head orientation and find no real difference in my resaults
Jim
"If you are using a carbon shaft from any company other than Easton or Carbon Tech there could be as much as a 10 # difference in spine weight in a quarter turn of the shaft."
I find that hard to believe... I gotta break out my spine tester and check my Gold Tips...
QuoteOriginally posted by ozy clint:
kelley- yes, it won't work with factory screw in heads since the thread/blade alignment could be any where. For them you would be stuck with a certain head with a certain shaft. It works great with heads glued onto adapters since all those alignment variables can be eliminated.
:readit: :thumbsup:
Zbone. I just spine checked a 1/2 dozen Victory V1s in .400. There is an 8# difference in spine in a quarter turn on the worst shaft and 3# on the best. Victory and Gold Tip are made in the same factory in Mexico. You can expect the same result. You can get good flight with them but you must spine check every shaft, mark the shafts at the point they all spine the same, and index all of your components before you install them. Easton, Beman, and Carbon Tech are the only shafts on the market that you can index after gluing the inserts and guarantee the spine will match.
bigbadjon - Yeah, guess I'm gonna have to check.... thanx
The only common arrow shafts I have no experience with is PSE Carbon Force and Arrow Dynamics. If anybody has some they would run on a tester it would certainly be helpful.