I am shooting Gold Tip 5570's full link, 200 gr points and 100 gr brass inserts from a R/D Longbow 58 lbs at 30 inches. Shelf is cut to center. The arrows are showing weak when bare shafting. I built out the shelf quit a bit with no change. Would my next step be to begin shortening the shaft by 1/4 inch?
Correction 5575's
I'm gonna guess you arrow is real weak. I'd try to drop the point weight alot and see how much better it is. Just what i'd try first.
x2
Yep, if you want to keep 300 up front start shortening. Go slow carbons react quick to change in length.
I hate to build out the strike plate on a center cut bow, they're supposed to be spine tolerant and usually are depending on the rest of the equation. I would change my arrow, brace height, and nock point as much as possible before messing with the bow shelf.
Play with your point weight, brace height, nock point, and lastly cutting of the arrow.
Arrow flex, which is affected by spine, point weight, string material/ brace height, works together with nock height and centercut measurement to act like windage and elevation on a gun. It's pretty cool when your tuning demonstrates it and when you figure out how to change things its so neat.
Do you cant your bow? Just like nock point can affect the vertical axis point of impact on a bow held straight up and down nock height can affect the left/right axis of arrow travel to some extent if you cant your bow. For a right hand shooter canting bow raising nock point can send arrows left and a little down and lowering nock point can send arrows right and a little up.
I tried reducing point weight, adjusting brace height and even removed the 100 grain insert with no real results. I began shortening the shaft 1/4 inch at a time and after removing
1 1/4 inch, the arrow are flying well.
I tried reducing point weight, adjusting brace height and even removed the 100 grain insert with no real results. I began shortening the shaft 1/4 inch at a time and after removing
1 1/4 inch, the arrow are flying well.
Cool! That's great news, carbons can be tricky sometimes.
I had to go to the 31.25" 7595's with my RER longbow at the exact same specs...using 225grains up front...couldn't get 5575's to bareshaft.
Try this link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_Ff9n9UV3s
I too have a 30 inch plus draw and like to shoot my arrows full length because of it...I know you believe you can get those 55/75 arrows to tune with that bow because you read somewhere or someone told you they ought to be the right spine...well from my experience you cannot, they will be remain too weak even if you cut them back to 30.5 inches, about as short as you can go...now here is where the next step gets a bit trickier...Gold Tip makes arrows labelled 75/95 that are 300 spine but they also make arrows labelled 75/95 that are 340 spine...I believe what you need are the 340 spine version if you are somehow committed to shooting only Gold Tip arrows...if not there are other 340 spine choices...I really like the Easton Full Metal Jacket version
DDave
Okay I stand corrected...I often say a bow will prefer what it will prefer as long as you are happy with the arrow you ended up with...if you had to both drop the 100 grain insert and shorten them you are making a very radical change in your front of centre number which may or may not be where you wanted to end up...saving money and getting just the arrow set up you want are usually not compatible concepts...I prefer to bareshaft at a friends house in the basement...he has an arrow making business and he does not believe in test kits for arrow spine, he believes in test dozens including carbon and aluminum arrows with a huge selection of points...makes bare shaft tuning surprisingly simple and yet I still have to buy some more arrows to get the last bow I tuned there right for what I want to shoot out of it since he did not have any 340 spine Full Metal Jackets
DDave