Folks,
I shoot GT Trads and in the past have not paid attention to my broadhead alignment. By BH alignment, mean I never had the 2 blade broadhead perpendicular to the string. As you can imagine doesn't make for a consistent sight picture.
I have been making some new arrows and have had a tough time making this alignment happen. Any tips? Is it as simple as adjusting the nock position and disregarding the feather position?
Thanks!
it may not make any diff. if it's tuned to the bow but, I try to keep every thing lined up consistant.
as long as they are tuned to the bow.
I'd think if the alignment is reasonably close, a thin washer between the point and the insert would help, or file just a hair off the front of the insert to allow the BH to turn in a little more.
I've done it two ways: if the arrows are already fletched, screw the broadhead into the insert before installing. Then glue the insert in with the broadhead in the correct position. Once installed, screw the broadhead back out before the glue dries to make sure it isn't permanently glued in there.
If the shafts aren't fletched, install the insert and broadhead. Then fletch them up accordingly.
That's the way I do it. But I'm sure others will have better suggestions.
(Edited spelling errors....I think)
If the inserts are put in with hot melt, just heat the broadhead and turn. If the inserts are put in with something more permanent, I find the little rubber washers help a lot. Try each broadhead on each shaft too. The way the threads line up may be different from arrow to arrow.
If you're able to you might try turning your insert. If you used a cooler hot melt glue you should be able to heat up a field point enough to melt the glue and turn the insert until your broadhead lines up the way you want.
If you did what I did and used epoxy you're on your own. lol
I use tiny little rubber O rings. Slip one on the thread of the broadhead. They allow you to turn the broadhead to whatever alignment and keeps them very tight in the insert. Once screwed in you can't hardly see them.
Sure am sorry I posted my reply above. Talk about doing things the hard way :(
where ever it spins true on the shaft is where it stays,,,,,, if I do get a preference and its a 2-blade I mount them at 10 & 4 O'clock so when I can't the bow I cannot see some big broadhead it just looks like a field point at that angle.
I like to orient mine horizontally,not for flight but more of a sight thing.I use glue on broadheads and either orient the head when I glue it on an adapter or when I glue in the insert.Each broadhead is numbered as is the aluminum footing right behind it.That way if I remove the broadhead,I can get it back on the arrow it is aligned to.
Thanks! Very helpful!
With carbons I use 3 feathers of the same color. This way I can rotate the nock and I have 3 chances to get the broad head how I like it.
I line mine up so that when at full draw with the bow canted, my broadhead is horizontal. I do not do this when I install my insert. I always keep one feather in the corner of the shelf. A lot of times I have to turn my arrow to make the BH align correctly, so it could be any of my three feathers that end up in the corner on any given arrow.
Doing it this way, I do not have to worry about having a certain BH for a certain arrow. I just screw them on and align and go get in a blind!
Bisch
Indexing the broadhead to the shaft needs to be done prior to gluing the insert. Not all carbon shafts have a uniform spine around the entire shaft so if you are aligning the broadhead by turning the nock you may be mismatching the spine of your arrows. My advice only works if you are spine matching your arrows of course. It is also generally a non issue with aluminum shafts.
Where it ends up is where it stays. :archer:
I have always aligned blades. For three blades I align with fletching. With two blades, I align to lay perpendicular to the string.
If the arrow is tuned well (enough fletching as well)I have not found any difference in arrow flight. However, alignment makes it easier to have the arrows in a quiver so that the blades and the fletchings do not touch.
I have been using the Ferr-L-Tite low temp (blue stick) insert glue for a while now. It holds as well as anything else I have ever tried and it is easy to turn or remove an insert by heating a field point and then screwing it into the insert and allowing the heat to transfer from tip to insert. You do not need much heat so it is safe for carbons as well.
I used it on some woods for a friend and he has yet to loose a point even in compressed cellotex.
On some of by setups it matters so for those arrows I use the small "O" rings that 3 Rivers sells for that purpose. They work well for me.