The Flemish jig from 3 rivers has numbers in the middle of the board.
Are these numbers the length of the bow or the length of the string.
Correct me if I am wrong but if these numbers represent the length of bow then I must subtract the corresponding amounts from the length of the bow to come up with the correct string length depending if it is a recurve or longbow. I believe you subtract 3 in for longbow and 4 in for recurve.
If these numbers represent the length of the string then I just leave the peg in this hole for the correct length of string. So if my string is 58 in then I put the peg on 58 in.
Best thing to do is call 3 Rivers and ask.
If it's marked by bow length, re-mark it for string length.
The old "rule of thumb" is 4" shorter for recurves, 3" shorter for longbows.
ATA specs state 3" shorter, longbow or recurve (the bow is to be marked 3" shorter than the string master that puts it at proper brace regardless of what the bow physically measures).
Reality is either one is hit or miss. Although there is a standard, a lot of bowyers and manufacturers don't follow it. Even when they do, you may like your bow tuned outside the range you can twist up or let out a string.
Going by actual string length will save you a lot of time and frustration.
Also, even when going by string length, it can vary some depending on the material. For me, I go 1/2" shorter when I'm using BCY-X vs. Dynaflight '97 because the X has practically no stretch or creep once the twist is settled in.
Chad
I didn't get my Flemish jig from 3Rivers, but it looks very similar to mine. When I build my string I take the bow length and then usually subtract 3" for my longbow or 4" for my recurve. To that number I usually add 17" for making the loops. This is the number I set my peg to in the center of the board if I do not subtract any for stretch. Example: 60" recurve bow minus 4" equals 56" (desired actual string length) plus 17" (for loops) equals 73" which is the peg number without any adjustments. Over the years, I've learned to tweak these numbers for different string materials/strand count and bow limb width design.
Hope this makes any sense.
On my jig, the pegs are actual string length...60" recurve I put the peg in the 56 hole. My jig is also in 1/2" increments
Here's a jpeg of the plans for the string jigs I make. The center numbers are for the actual length of the strands you are cutting like yeager said.
Darren
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q240/dhaverstick/StringBoardAssembly_zpsb004ea3e.jpg)
Similar to the one I use, except mine is marked in 1" increments. Mine also starts with 41" (finished string length) and goes through 70".
Once you figure it out, you can adapt most any jig. My main point is using a jig marked for bow length vs. string length can cause a lot of aggravation and headaches, especially if you are making strings for lots of different bows.
Thanks for all the input