I was shooting some Easton Axis 500 arrows yesterday. They have traditional fletching and a wood grain appearance,,,good Lord they fly straight, silent and fast....I may invest in 6 ore of these...
I'm always torn about how far to go with traditional...accuracy and speed count for something...
I love the Axis Trads, love the Beman Centershots even more, same look with a traditional insert and a little cheaper.
hey buddy if they shoot good and ya hit the spot thats all ya need. me i love river cane arrows when i can get em as they do it for me.
I love wood arrows. I love making them and shooting them.
I don't let myself be tempted by look a likes.
I love wood arrows too,really miss that Cedar smell when tapering them or picking up two pieces that use to be one.
No arguing the longevity of carbon though,or the penetration,when compared to woods.
See you later Cedars,it's all about carbon for me.
Good Shooting,
Craig
I love the smell of cedar, but I love the taste of tenderloin better. Since my Beman/Axis arrows fly better and out-penetrate my P.O. cedars, I'll be found using carbon...the original organic material. ;)
I have tried both. For me I need all the help I can get ..... So i shoot carbon.
Is anyone up for a dumb question? I bought these arrows from a shop that was going out of business....my arrows are marked "500 8.9 gr GPI", I know the "8.9" is grains per inch, but what is the "500"?
These shoot very well out of my Samick Sage 45 LB recurve.
I was looking on various sites at arrows offered there and I see some as 250, 350, 400 etc, but no explanation of what it means.
No such thing as a dumb question. The 500 is arrow spine
Purely by chance, according to some the charts out there, I happened on the right arrows for my bow...Cool beans as we used to say in our long haired days..
dont do it
Same topic but I just bought two dozen cedar shafts from 3Rivers which were marked 55-60#. After staining and coating the 30" shafts and applying a wrap with nocks and a 125 gr point I went to shoot one unfletched shaft to see how it might fly. It broke in half as soon as it hit the target.
I thought this was rather strange so I tried another one. Same thing happened. This is just a cardboard box stuffed with cellophane wrap so it isn't hitting a hard surface. Just as strange is that the shafts were showing very weak out of a 45# bow so I cut another shaft to 28.5" and replaced the 125 gr point with a top hat adapter (40gr) and a 75gr field point for a total of 115gr and it still showed weak (bending to the right for a right handed shooter) and again it splintered in half at about 6" back from the point.
Is it possible that these shafts are defective or mismarked? I have been shooting carbons exclusively and now experimenting with woodies but this isn't very encouraging.
Doug
I never bare shaft wooden shafts cause they will break every time they hit the target unless they are pretty well straight on.
It is possible that they could have been spined wrong. If it were me I would fletch up 3 and just see how they shoot. I would suggest if you are serious about shooting wood is to by or make you a spine tester. You can make one for $50.00 or less.
I would gladly give up shooting wooden arrows, but I with my light draw weight and short draw length I cannot find an arrow which bareshafts well with a reasonable pile weight of 125 grn. Also, the woods seem to fly better...
So now, i have taken up making arrows and fixing them... There is a certain amount of satisfaction in that, but i would rather be out shooting...
ALex
I think what you shoot is a very individual decision. For me I found that just like learning to shoot a stick bow well, the crafting of wood arrows that leave little to be desired to other materials can be accomplished for hunting proposes.
QuoteOriginally posted by dougedwards:
Same topic but I just bought two dozen cedar shafts from 3Rivers which were marked 55-60#. After staining and coating the 30" shafts and applying a wrap with nocks and a 125 gr point I went to shoot one unfletched shaft to see how it might fly. It broke in half as soon as it hit the target.
I thought this was rather strange so I tried another one. Same thing happened. This is just a cardboard box stuffed with cellophane wrap so it isn't hitting a hard surface. Just as strange is that the shafts were showing very weak out of a 45# bow so I cut another shaft to 28.5" and replaced the 125 gr point with a top hat adapter (40gr) and a 75gr field point for a total of 115gr and it still showed weak (bending to the right for a right handed shooter) and again it splintered in half at about 6" back from the point.
Is it possible that these shafts are defective or mismarked? I have been shooting carbons exclusively and now experimenting with woodies but this isn't very encouraging.
Doug
Did you make sure the grain orientation was correct when you glued the nocks on?
Shoot what you like. You may find you like both. I have shot wood, aluminum, and fiberglass through the years and liked them all. Good wood arrows will shoot more accurately than you or anybody on this forum can hold, but still, some will like carbon. No problem - that's why they make different types of arrows.
QuoteOriginally posted by dougedwards:
Same topic but I just bought two dozen cedar shafts from 3Rivers which were marked 55-60#. After staining and coating the 30" shafts and applying a wrap with nocks and a 125 gr point I went to shoot one unfletched shaft to see how it might fly. It broke in half as soon as it hit the target.
I thought this was rather strange so I tried another one. Same thing happened. This is just a cardboard box stuffed with cellophane wrap so it isn't hitting a hard surface. Just as strange is that the shafts were showing very weak out of a 45# bow so I cut another shaft to 28.5" and replaced the 125 gr point with a top hat adapter (40gr) and a 75gr field point for a total of 115gr and it still showed weak (bending to the right for a right handed shooter) and again it splintered in half at about 6" back from the point.
Is it possible that these shafts are defective or mismarked? I have been shooting carbons exclusively and now experimenting with woodies but this isn't very encouraging.
Doug
This is pretty common when bareshafting woodies. I find that bareshafting usually gives me a shaft the is much stiffer than I really need. You might try fletching and comparing field points to BHs.
Ahh,the smell of cedar. Someone needs to invent a carbon shaft that smells like cedar. Hmmmm.
Good Shooting,
Craig
Monkeyball just cut up some of those cedar scent air conditioners for your car and shove one inside your carbons...smells like cedar and adds a little weight forward... :biglaugh:
Snag,
You are a genius......what percentage am I going to have to give you when I hit it big time???????
By the way,I hopped on your website,you make a beautiful arrow,great work!!!!!!!!
Good Shooting,
Craig
Ha I Killed over 100 deer with wood mostly some with aluminum the last 3 deer I killed were with carbon they work great. But so does a .270! Back to wood bows and arrows for me this year. Love the smell of cedar.
I agree you may want to verify the nock orientation is perpendicular to the grain
those carbons take a heck of a beating on the stump course too!! but I like woods from the longbows..
I remember trying a carbon on one of my selfbows and it shot so perfect I was hunting with a back quiver full of wood arrows except the arrow on the shelf was that carbon,,,, it shot so nice I had to bring it!! not soon after I went back to the woods it just felt better on the stand with a woodie on the stirng.
Nock orientation is perpendicular to the grain of the arrow? What does that mean??
Doug
Doug-Check out this thread:
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000119
It explains it better than I can typing.
Nothing wrong with what works!
I recently bought a dozen of douglas fir shafts and finished em.
I got em tuned Sunday and getting ready for broadheads.
Shoot what gives you pleasure and don't worry about it. I just shoot wood and I love every phase of wood from selecting the shafts to bareshafting to building the arrows and shooting them.
A few years ago I made a serious attempt at carbons; spent 6 weeks wanting the project to work out. But in the end it just was not for me. To each their own. :archer2:
QuoteOriginally posted by Hermon:
Doug-Check out this thread:
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000119
It explains it better than I can typing.
Wow.....excellent information there. Thanks
Doug
I love carbons. Feathers wear out but the shafts just keep going.
I spray this on them every week :)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v496/joevt/cedarpowerspray_zpsad9ad3fc.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/joevt/media/cedarpowerspray_zpsad9ad3fc.jpg.html)
Same experience and opinion here as Bjorn.
I was out last year with my carbons, I jumped a pheasant, perfect set up, I did not shoot. I cannot stand the idea of throwing away a perfectly good tapered carbon arrow. Now if my quiver would have been loaded with cedars, a couple of those would have been old ones and one of those would have on the string while I was sneaking along that switch grass. The carbons are so much heavier than my cedars that I have to pick which one gets grooved in for the season. However, as far as accuracy goes, when a wood arrow is right they are as accurate as anything else. I do not bare shaft my woods, all of my arrows are the same length, and I adjust spines by changing point weight. I do try to target 10grains per pound with my aluminum and wood arrows, so going from one to other is not a life changing event.
lotsa good shaft material out there, choose wisely. i use beman bowhunter 500's and surewood doug fir.
they're all good, but when working on form i'll use only carbons, that way when i miss it was me and not the arrow. :saywhat: :D
A good tuned arrow is GREAT no matter if it's carbon, aluminum, wood, or grass.
They all have their place in traditional archery as far as I'm concerned.