if it was you,,,,,,, if you had a bow that shot a 28" 45/50 spine arrow with a 125gr point perfect then what would be your first choice in shaft spine if you wanted to up the point weight to 165gr out of the same bow which happens to be a Hill style?
I'm thinking only 50-55 maybe cut it back a 1/2" OR bump the fletch size up to 5 3/4" HB's ,,,,,,,,, I want to try simmons tree sharks on wood arrows this season but they only come in 165... I like ordering my arrows custom from Snag and I'm probably going to just tell him what I hear here so no try before I buy..
If your arrows are shooting fine now, another 5# of spine will accommodate the heavier head. If possible, ask for shafts closer to 55 than 50. Won't need to shorten them or go to larger fletching.
Try the same shaft setup with a piece of leather lace behind the strikeplate. That will move it out a touch, and may be all you would need. What weight is your bow, and what is your draw length?
1/16' of sideplate is about 5#. Which is why bows that are cut 3/16 past require so much more spine. :archer:
I would start with putting the 165's on you 45/50's and see how they fly. If they show to weak build out the sideplate.
honestly I never even thought of building out the side plate so thanks for mentioning that. its for a JD Berry Vixen 56@28 but I draw it about 27" curious about the point of impact with the side plate built out.
I would think 54 or 55 and then bareshaft.
QuoteOriginally posted by Tajue17:
honestly I never even thought of building out the side plate so thanks for mentioning that. its for a JD Berry Vixen 56@28 but I draw it about 27" curious about the point of impact with the side plate built out.
I would agree with mounting a 165 head on one or your arrows and shoot it. If hitting right (assuming you're a RH shooter) then build out the sideplate in 1/16 increments as suggested until you are hitting center. Your mind will make the needed sight adjustments for the sideplate thickness.
Or, if you can afford to, cut off 1/4" of shaft and try one that way without building out the sideplate.
5 pound spine increase should be about right. If David is making your arrows, tell him and he will get it right.
have him send you a few test shafts a little long. You can cut them back to dial it in (if needed), send the shaft back and know you're getting exactly what you want that way! Sounds like a pain, but sometimes the long way is the best way to get where you need to go. Not knowing what you have for tools, that's assuming you can cut them and retaper the point ends.
Hi Ted, I agree with Orion and Fletcher. We can go with shafts in the upper range of 50/55's and keep the length the same. I can always send you out a few testers before we start on the order too.
When I made custom arrows I would add 5# spine per 25 grains additional point weight.