I will begin editing these photos from photobucket (scammers) to Imgur links. I hope they stay linked for a looong time. 7/31/2017
I thought I'd do a build along on Hermon's back quiver. I've had a few folks PM or email me asking for pointers. I'm not a pro. I'm a hobbyist who likes doing many things. As a lefty growing up I had to make some things (six shooter holsters) for myself since not many left handed things were readily available. This is well before the world wide web sensation that's totally changed our lives.
So...
Let's talk leather.
You'll need a good shoulder of vegetable tanned 6/7oz leather. You can go thicker (7/8) or thinner (5/6), but from my experience 6/7 is a good weight/thickness. Some leather workers use other leathers. A web search will help you choose what you should get based on your needs. Veg tanned leather needs to be treated before your finished product can be used. That's why I like it. You can treat it with whatever quality treatment you desire.
The basic tools needed are: a razor knife, a straight edge ruler of some sturdiness, a flat cutting surface, a leather punch for making crisp holes, a soft face hammer for the punch, and a pencil. I use other tools and devices to help me along, but those are the basic tools needed.
You'll also need some good quality lacing. I use lacing made for leatherwork, not shoe laces bought at discount stores or other places. They will work, but they are not as sturdy as you'll need. I use 3/16 wide lacing. You'll be pulling it with some force, so sturdy lacing is a must.
(http://i.imgur.com/w2b5Bsh.jpg)
I'd like for this to be an informative build along. If you have questions or input based on your experiences, please jump in. Let's make this fun and inspiring. I know some of you have been wanting to make one, so here's your chance to get going.
I make mine generally 22ish inches tall and I like for the body to be around 7 inches wide. For that size I'll cut a rectangular piece of leather for the body that's 19" wide and XX inches tall. We'll discuss the XX later.
If you want a tapered body you can make your rectangle then reduce the lower width by 1" inward on both sides. Then cut the excess off. Trust me. Do the rectangle first, then reduce the lower half. It's easier that way and the waste of leather is nominal. This one for Hermon has 90 degree corners and will have parallel sides. No taper. Leave the length longer than you think you'll need for now. Remember the XX?
(http://i.imgur.com/92RJ7ib.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/TFsVOHd.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/ZowLheV.jpg)
:thumbsup:
Let's mark the spots we're going to punch our holes along the bottom. For this I bought a cheap metal yardstick and drive punched marks along the 1/2" measurements approximately 1/4" from the yardstick's edge. I then drilled the holes with a cordless drill and smoothed out any burrs off the holes' edges.
OR
You can take your pencil and lightly draw a line across the width of the bottom 1/4" from the bottom edge. Then mark every 1/2" mark starting 1/2" from the edge that will be your overlap of the body. .5, 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5 and so on...You'll see why later.
If a RH quiver, then the RH edge/side of the unrolled body will overlap the left side of the unrolled body when you finally do roll it into a tube and begin lacing. It'll look like a G when rolled over onto itself.
With your lower hole marks, mark all the way to the left side of the leather. When you punch, start at the right side (for a RH quiver) and go all but the last three holes when punching. Do not punch the last three holes, yet.
You can barely see the pencil marks on this lower edge in this pic.
(http://i.imgur.com/qB4Hua1.jpg)
:coffee: :coffee:
Very nice
Great build along. Thanks Bud! Looking forward to the finished product.
Where do you get your leather?
Get my leather at Zack White Leather in Ramseur, NC. About 12 miles from me.
Gotta run. Will post more later. My wife hijacked the laptop.
Thanks ;)
:campfire:
Now to mark the holes along the sides of the leather which will allow us to lace up the body.
Now Hermon wants this one to be 21" deep. We have to take into account the holes along the bottom which are 1/4" from the edge. We also have to take into account the extra piece of leather we're going to put in the bottom to help fight off those razor sharp broadheads. If our quiver body will be 21" and some change tall and we account for the fold over at the top, we're looking at a length of about 23 1/2". So we have to start our marks for the body lacing holes just above 3/8". We also have to make sure the holes are 1/2" from our target mark of 21" deep. That way when we fold the top over the holes line up properly to lace the overlap into alignment with everything else.
From the bottom:
(http://i.imgur.com/JE1vYev.jpg)
At the 21" mark:
(http://i.imgur.com/7Euq2yS.jpg)
When we find the spot where our first holes should begin up the side I use a little pattern I made from thick card stock. It came from the back of an old desk calendar from work. Holes are 1/4" from the edge and 1" apart square. The card stock is 1.5" wide.
OR
You can draw a faint line with the pencil up the side 1/4" from the edge. Then another line 1.25" from the edge up the side. From the measurement we've determined, then mark spots on both lines in 1" increments up the sides. Do this to both sides.
IF you use a pattern like I did, the pattern has to be placed the right edge to right edge and left edge to left edge on the leather so the holes align from the pattern equally for lacing. Don't flip the pattern. Just slide it over to the other side.
(http://i.imgur.com/NM8HhXv.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/4Q9OSCA.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/rY8hzZb.jpg)
Now for the punching of all those dots...................................... about 125 of'em for now
(http://i.imgur.com/myB8xh5.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/ZjbqBPQ.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/6qh0FFO.jpg)
Notice we didn't go all the way with the holes on the bottom left.
(http://i.imgur.com/8Yf0HQA.jpg)
:campfire: :coffee:
Thanks for the detailed description!
Before lacing up the body I did some treating of the quiver leather. I'll cover that in more detail later.
Now to the lacing. I start with rolling the quiver leather over onto itself. Remember the G?
Here it is:
(http://i.imgur.com/x7Jl6jy.jpg)
Now you can see why I left the last three holes unpunched on the lower edge. I'll punch those after the body is all laced up and lined up.
The fist X
(http://i.imgur.com/cOxdDvb.jpg)
The inside. Notice the lace does not cross on the inside. We don't want those razor sharp broadheads to catch on anything so we keep'em in a straight line with the body. This is with the quiver laced farther up (inside view).
(http://i.imgur.com/tifMZsl.jpg)
With getting close to the top I'll need to do the fold over at the mouth. It helps to wet the leather to do this.
Here the top is already folded over, but I run water in a pan deep enough to submerge the lip to be folded and the fold itself. I don't dunk it too deeply.
(http://i.imgur.com/GVSFCsK.jpg)
Aligning the holes in the fold over. A big nail helps get the holes lined up, but be careful not to scratch up the leather.
(http://i.imgur.com/BuzJTN6.jpg)
Folded and laced
(http://i.imgur.com/Zjd9kOl.jpg)
This is how I do the extra lacing. If Glenn wants to cut it or use it to cross over to the back of the quiver to use as a divider from BH arrows to his stumpers, that's up to him.
(http://i.imgur.com/VxY3eu6.jpg)
Now that the body is laced and aligned, time to punch those last three holes for proper alignment in them.
(http://i.imgur.com/Mi7DsmH.jpg)
Here's the bottom cut out from a pattern.
(http://i.imgur.com/97h9oFL.jpg)
How I make the bottom is kinda weird but crafty.
Stay tuned.
What I've done in the past is take the quiver body and find two matching glasses from the dish cabinet in the kitchen that are of a nice size for the bottom. I place the two glasses in the body tube with the body lying on its back on the counter and push the glasses apart until the leather is tight. I get a measurement of just slightly over 7" x 3 1/8" with the nice oval ends. I transfer the 7 x 3 1/8 measurements to the card stock and then use the glasses to draw the nice rounded ends in the 7x3 1/8 rectangle. I cut out the pattern.
This is what I get:
(http://i.imgur.com/GnTiHxd.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/WLdQKeo.jpg)
Before punching the pattern I used a cutout blank leather bottom to mark as I held it to the quiver bottom. Holes are 1/4 in from the edge and 1/2 inch apart, except in the rounded sides. This is marked by eye. When the leather is marked I punched it and then marked the card pattern with the holes already in the leather and punched the card stock pattern for future use. This pic is from Tim's (azwatasha's) build marking the leather bottom.
(http://i.imgur.com/ZmgZNw4.jpg)
Wife's hijacking the laptop again. Will post more tomorrow.
Before lacing the bottom we have to punch the holes for the quiver strap. If looking at the face of the quiver, for a right handed user the strap would need to be on the left side at the bottom. I like to punch four holes and put them just behind the apex of the side's curve.
[ (http://i.imgur.com/8PcvEl9.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/pUdoMLj.jpg)
Now we can lace on the bottom. Line up your pattern. There are 35 holes in the quiver bottom for the base to attach and likewise 35 holes in the base piece. I mention this because I have had too many and too few holes before when "eyeballing" the hole marks exclusively. :knothead: :banghead:
I want to have the body overlap to be on the upper edge when worn on the back. I position the bottom piece accordingly and begin lacing. Just like the overlap of the G we mentioned before, we want to lace with the overlap of the G and go in that direction. When starting the lacing, leave the loops loose for the first five or so holes. This will allow us to tuck the final lacing into the loops for locking them in at the end of the lacing job. I start the lacong along the side of the quiver that will be closest to the wearer's back.
(http://i.imgur.com/QgTEzPu.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/3AfzLtx.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/sAD2wbs.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/EtmMn5Z.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/X9XHO5l.jpg)
This is the side of the quiver that'll be at the wearer's back.
(http://i.imgur.com/n0SkfXb.jpg)
And the outside with overlap cross-lace showing
(http://i.imgur.com/Yi8VstO.jpg)
Work your way through about 8-10 holes loosely lacing the lace. It's easier to work through the process leaving the three or four loops behind you loose, that way when closing it off you can get your fingers in there to lace easily. Tighten behind you as you go, always leaving the previous three or so loose.
When lacing, pull the lacing tightly. This is where good quality lacing will pay off. I've had lacing break while lacing up the bottom and had to pull it all out and start over with a new piece. That just stinks when it happens.
When you get all holes laced, stick the lead lacing through the loose loops from the beginning. Now take the loose end from the beginning section and thread it through the ending loops. Then work everything tight and lock it down. Trim off the ends.
Marking and punching the holes for the top of the strap.
This strap will be centered. Some archers like theirs closer to the top edge. This will drop the arrows when worn, more like Howard Hill wore his. But if you read Howard's book, he describes a good quiver as having the arrows close to the hunter's ear for ease of access/retrieval. It's really just a personal preference.
[ (http://i.imgur.com/3LrtaJn.jpg)
[ (http://i.imgur.com/JBRqHV0.jpg)
Great job Bud!!
Thanks for taking us through the process.
The end results are awesome looking!!
God bless,Mudd
Cutting the strap.
The way I make them and attach them is having one main strap with lace at the bottom for adjustment. After a conversation with David Mitchell and following his advice, I think this is an excellent way to do it. My straps are about 24" long.
(http://i.imgur.com/HJZqJL1.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/zgzFZqD.jpg)
I usually punch 8 holes in the strap bottom. Six are at the top.
(http://i.imgur.com/0yrNSss.jpg)
With the 6 holes at the top, attach in this manner. Start at the bottom holes with straight up lacing in the inside of the quiver.
(http://i.imgur.com/KrsiaiF.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/Tw93Crw.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/iDljiVE.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/hy3Gwhm.jpg)
Everything together.
(http://i.imgur.com/jejQ2g3l.jpg)
Glenn wanted 21" deep. I added a thick piece of leather cut just smaller than the bottom pattern and wedged it into the bottom of the quiver to protect the lacing from sharp broadhead points. This put me right on 21" deep.
That's it.
If there are questions, I'll be glad to offer my answers, but there are many techniques out there. This is just one way one leatherworker does it.
I treated Glenn's quiver leather before assembling. The vegetable tanned leather soaked up everything I put on it. It'll need more. The more you put on it, the darker the leather gets.
(http://i.imgur.com/MRy2oQl.jpg)
Feel free to mention your Mudd Flapp Roy :)
Excellent idea in my mind!
Wow Bud. I don't think I bid enough for all the work you put into it!
This should become a sticky in the how-to section. :clapper:
In reality it was about two hours. When I get rolling, I get rolling. I enjoy it.
You'll need to treat it more. It's thirsty.
Headed to the PO in a few minutes.
Thanks again for virtually doubling the St. Jude auction for the quiver(s). You and Tim!!
:clapper: :clapper: :clapper:
Mr Bud, that's very nice. I think I will eventually give it a try :thumbsup:
How many sq. ft. does it take or what size leather do you order?
You're looking at roughly a 2' x 2' piece. 4 sq ft is needed. That'll leave enough for body, strap, and bottom. It'll take three 72" laces.
The leather definitions are best explained here
http://www.zackwhite.com/Selecting-Leather_ep_44.html
I use 6/7oz for most all projects, but not exclusively.
As for treatment of the leather, that's also a personal thing. I'll cover how I do it soon.
I'm gonna have to try that on
Outstanding build along. Thank you
Nicely done Bud. I have a feeling there's going to be quite a few BQ's built by members this summer thanks to you!
I NEVER wear my BQ because it hangs funky off te side of my shoulder , thanks to this I'm gonna adjust that top part of the strap and re adjust z
Thanks bud
Some of that could be the lack of stiffness in the leather. Top strap position is important, especially to us less limber/flexible. And having a back quiver too stiff will also be a hindrance, and makes for noisy arrows.
Page 75 of Hunting The Hard Way covers a few pointers on a back quiver. I will say that in the book Howard describes a proper position, as mentioned a few posts earlier, as "the nock end of the arrows will be just beside the right ear or the left, according to whether the archer is right or left handed." If you look at old videos of Howard, or still photos, his quiver hangs quite low on the shoulder. I find this unnatural for me. It may be perfectly fine for others. You just have to figure out what suits you and practice, practice, practice.
Simply put, back quivers aren't for everyone, but if you ever wanted to try one, making your own is not too bad of a task. That way if it's not for you, St. Jude can always use a donation item along about May of every year. ;)
Hey Bud, going to paint the olive oil on my quiver tonight when I get home. How long in the sun do You figure? Remember it's around 110 degrees here today.
Well I moved the strap over more towards center and BINGO!!
Took me 30 sec to solve the headache I've had for a year. Lol
Thanks a bunch.
The quiver will let you know Tim how much it wants. Go with even moderate coats at first. Let it sit and soak. The you'll be able to see the areas that need more. Remember the edges and holes will soak more rapidly than the hide face and back. Brush it down inside and out with less on the inside. I pour it onto my palm and then work it in that way on the inside. It's messy but effective. An even distribution is desired, but after a week or two you'd be surprised how it evens out. And yes, you can get too much, as will be evident in your clothing when you wear it. Better to go too light with several treatments than douse it and have leather treating remorse. It'll also looked streaked in places, but give it time to try to balance itself out, then apply more where needed. The strap takes oil much more quickly. So do the laces.
Good deal Brian!! I have tried the lower wearing of the quiver but it just didn't work for me as good as having the top strap centered on the quiver body. I'm far from proficient, but way away from novice.
Tracking indicates that the quiver should be waiting at my door when I get home tonight!
:jumper:
:archer2:
I have a feeling some arrows will be loosed in just a short while ;)
You are correct Bud! The quiver is great!
When I got off work I hurried home to try it out. It is the first back quiver that I have had that wasn't a chore for me to get the arrows out of.
I spent the best part of an hour out shooting with it. When I finished I came inside to put some leather treatment on it. Bud said that Neetsfoot oil would work and I happened to have some on hand. Was pleasantly surprised to find a nice inscription on the bottom of the quiver form Bud. Applied the oil as Bud said above and went out and shot a little more. It is already starting to conform to my back. Will let this coat soak in for a couple days and then give it another application.
Thank you Bud for the very generous donation and the very informative build along. I will take good care of your creation and enjoy using it for many years to come and then pass it along to one of my grandkids someday.
:thumbsup:
:clapper: :clapper: :clapper:
lets see a pic Hermon! please
I will take a picture tomorrow when I can get some better light.
Here are a couple pics of the great quiver Bud made.
I have given it one treatment of oil and will do several more over the next few weeks.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc452/ghermon/Mobile%20Uploads/20140703_152950.jpg) (http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/ghermon/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140703_152950.jpg.html)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc452/ghermon/Mobile%20Uploads/20140703_153011.jpg) (http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/ghermon/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140703_153011.jpg.html)
hey Bud that quiver is awesome real nice work :archer:
I hope to see that quiver next to a nice Kansas buck this fall and Tim's next to an Arizona elk.
:thumbsup:
Thanks again all. It's been real fun. I'm already looking forward to the next St. Jude auction time. I had a great time building these two.
I'm going to do my best to make that happen Bud!
Thanks for your tutorial Bud!! I'm researching where to get some nice leather now
Forgot to cover the treating...sorry.
Treating the leather:
If the leather is "green" (untreated) vegetable tanned leather, then I like to wet form the quiver before adding any oils.
Wet forming is just what it sounds like. Wet the quiver, not a dripping soak, or a light rub of a damp cloth, but wet it so it's pliable. Wear it when pliable to get the shape you want and use your hands if necessary to form it to your needs. Be careful not to crease the sides where the body begins to collapse, but rather allow the body to collapse with a nice rolled over transition from front to back.
Let dry completely.
When dry, treat it with your favorite leather treatment
Mink Oil paste
Montana Pitch Blend
Neetsfoot oil
Fiebing's Aussie Conditioner with bee's wax (what I use mostly)
Pure Olive Oil
Basically anything that does not have petroleum distillates in it, such as Neetsfoot Compound.
Treat it and flex it. Let the treatment soak in.
Repeat/treat/flex until the desired look/feel is reached. The more treatment you put on it, the darker the leather will get. You can do too much. If you do too much, the treatment will trasfer to your clothing easily.
You can also treat after cutting out your leather parts but prior to punching any holes on your leather. Then after you get the desired soak of treatment, punch the holes and assemble. Treating with punched holes can allow the treatment to soak into the holes more so than the leather surface of the body. It can look splotchy.
I use a cheap paint brush to apply the oil/treatment. Sometimes I use my bare hands.
This is where my wife gets upset occasionally. The kitchen table gets oiled alot. Use old towels as a work surface, if possible, on top of your workbench, countertop, table. Keep the wife happy.
Thanks for a great build-a-long Bud. Very informative and easy to follow instructions. I had purchased some leather previously and was planning to build a couple quivers, never having built any before, with your help my 1st one turned out great. Your the man.
Post up some pics Greg :) I just finished one for myself. It was the other half of Glenn's hide for his quiver. Already got it broken in.
Tim sent me a nice pic of him out stumping. Too nice a pic to not share.
(http://i.imgur.com/Kuwb9DP.jpg)
Posting for Greg - aka soap creek
(http://i.imgur.com/IuuHtwt.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/fYDUi4v.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/hMBnM1Z.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/J8hFlOr.jpg)
Well done Sir!! Very well done!!
:clapper:
I'll bet some of you didn't know we had hillbillies in S.E. Iowa lol. Thanks for posting the pics Bud.
Hey Greg, that is one NICE quiver You built there Sir! Bud is very VERY helpful.He made me an absolute Beauty! Just to let You know, the JD Berry Vixen I got from You is still smoken' them arrows!
Bud,
Got a question for You, I believe I have enough olive oil saturated into the quiver, judging by my clothes, I painted on four coats and it seems to be breaking in very nicely. I'm working the center section, trying not to kink it.
My question is,
with the olive oil, should I still use a leather conditioner for the break-in?
Sorry for any ignorance, but I don't know any different.
Here's to You Bud! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Tim
You can use either, but once break-in arrives, or just before, you may want to switch over to a waterproofing conditioner, like mink oil paste. But also keep in mind, even when treated with waterproofing, leather will intake rain if subjected to it enough. I got caught in a downpour in Georgia last year. I think my organs were saturated. The back quiver did eventually dry out though. So did I.
Yesterday I put a heavy coat of Neetsfoot on mine that I just built. It was nice and evenly dark brown. Today it's back to the medium tone.
For yours, I'd say back off and begin working the body of the quiver to make it flex like you want. Give it a few days. If after that you think it needs more, then apply more. When it's there, an occasional treatment before hunting season starts is good, but only if needed. I have one quiver I treated so much I haven't put anything on it past that initial break-in. It's still good and flexible and doesn't transfer any oil to my clothing. I made this quiver (in the vid below) out of 7/8oz bull hide and out of the same hide I made one for a friend in NY. He asked about break-in. I made a short vid for him.
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f94/Equismith/th_100_7835.mp4) (http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f94/Equismith/100_7835.mp4)
Thanks for the complement Tim, and glad you and the Vixen are getting along so good. Its always nice to know that who ever you traded or sold something to are happy with what they got.
And Bud's a really good teacher.
Very well done Soap Creek!
Okay, this thread has gone on long enough without anyone posting up that special feature Bud puts into the quivers he builds for us and more importantly, for St. Jude's.
I truly enjoy the daily use I get with this special piece of equipment, but I'll never forget what was staring at me the day I opened it a year ago.....and what I see when I lay it on my workbench from time to time.
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n525/rgreen1958/Back%20Quiver/DSCN0876.jpg) (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/rgreen1958/media/Back%20Quiver/DSCN0876.jpg.html)
For all you do for St. Jude's Bud......God Bless You! Come on y'all.....show off your artist' remarque!
Wooo hoooo!!
You're on a roll :)
And thanks Rob and all for the kind words.
My arrows are full length carbons. I would need a quiver maybe 25 - 26" deep I think. Does that sound right ? The BQ I currently own is 21.5" deep and the arrows constantly rub on the clouds as I walk. Is the depth the problem here ?
ChuckC
I have made several that came out well and very functional. But, where were you when I needed you? Well done, Sir. Anyone with any handy skills can follow your directions to a perfect quiver
QuoteOriginally posted by ChuckC:
My arrows are full length carbons. I would need a quiver maybe 25 - 26" deep I think. Does that sound right ? The BQ I currently own is 21.5" deep and the arrows constantly rub on the clouds as I walk. Is the depth the problem here ?
ChuckC
Go no longer than 23". The strap mount location for the bottom half will help as well. If you want the quiver to set a little lower, place the strap connection a little closer to the mid point on the quiver rather than closer to the base. You can also attach the top part a little closer to the top we well, but don't go too close. Depth really isn't the problem. It is strap location. If your quiver body gets too long your arms will have to get longer as well.
Very impressive Bud. You do fine work.
Great project. I'll be making one of these.
Thanks
Thanks Mike
Bud, I am guessing they ARE longer for my longer draw. Currently the arrows stick up well above the top of my head. I will try lowering the unit. Thanks
TTT
Making another this year for the St. Jude auction.
Bid it up ;)
Bud B. makes a great quiver! I love mine from last years auction. :archer:
Im very interested in making one of these Hill Quivers. I read the description and looked at the images, unfortunately now that I go back in preparation for the project the images are not visible. Is there a way to see the images again? Thanks for all the help.
That's a good question Mike...I'm going to ask Bud if he can rebuild this one...a very good reference!
Thanks Tony I appreciate your help. I thought others may be interested as well.
Give me a few days. I will try to replace the original images.
Got page one photo edited. Break time
Someone please let me know if they flow with the description. Photobucket was a booger to get all the pics downloaded. I hope I am replacing the photos with correct and corresponding links.
Wow! Ask and yea shall receive! This is awesome, thanks for such a quick response. I figured it would take a while at best.
The images seem to be in lining up.
Thanks Mike. Will keep working on it.
:campfire:
I looked for this thread, where was it? Maybe I missed it? I was going to make another but lost my notes. Glad you are rebuilding this thread. Could you put it in some kind of form that would allow us to download it to our devices. I did this with Bowdocs restoration thread some years back. Thank you agian.
Bud...lookin' good brother!
You don't need to bust it out immediately....take your time!
Its kinda neat that some folks have saved images to a secure source. I believe most have not...and those images could be gone forever.
M60, if you download a PDF printer you can convert the entire thread to PDF. There are probably many available but I use Cute PDF. It's free to download. Just Google it.
QuoteOriginally posted by monterey:
M60, if you download a PDF printer you can convert the entire thread to PDF. There are probably many available but I use Cute PDF. It's free to download. Just Google it.
Yep....same here with the "cutePDF". Not a bad idea when it comes to irreplaceable images / threads. These build-alongs are gold. Happy Bud saved the evidence!
anybody suggest an equivalent to CutePDF for a Mac? I would love to have this archived on my computer.
I don't have the answer but Google Is your friend. :)
Yeah just being lazy. Though somebody might have a preference.
Bud, Thanks for taking the time to update the pics in this. I missed it the first time and am enjoying it immensely now. -Dave
Took a break. Will start back rhis afternoon to continue reposting pics. One may be lost for good as are a few others.....
I'll add a couple more photos of a quiver I made using part of ceme24's gator he got in SC a few years ago.
(http://i.imgur.com/Cca2mPE.jpg)
The strap.
(http://i.imgur.com/CrzwHEj.jpg)
This thread has been rebuilt. If any questions arise for building your own quiver, please ask.
Please, do not contact me to build you a quiver. Soap Creek builds them now and is TG sponsor. His prices are quite reasonable, too.
I am retired and building quivers for others for a fee is too much like work. ;)
I hope this thread is useful to many. If anyone downloads it to a pdf, I sure would appreciate a copy.
Thanks.
Excellent!! :campfire:
Thank you Bud for rebuilding this thread. I plan on using it to build my own quiver very soon.
I figured out how to save this thread to my IBooks. Just selected PDF from tool bar. Now have this and bow restoration thread forever.
Thanks agian for rebuilding the photos, I know it was not a fun thing to do. I plan on using English Bridle leather for this one. I used Latigo for a few but got tired of "bleed out". I use mine off and on, it's just to hot here for me to wear this time of year. I have also made the quiver like Errol Flyn used in Robin Hood. Not as conforming to the back but looks cool with a doz arrows in it.
M60gunner, could you send me that dowload, please?
Pm for email.
Hey Bud I was just wondering, and I must be missing something, how your tying off the lower strap end. Thanks again for reposting this thread.
Happy to see this one reposted. Can't tell you how many times I've read thru this post Bud. Leather and supplies waiting for me in the shop :thumbsup:
Thanks Bud...so many old threads without their critical pictures. It's wonderful to see this one back in all it's pictorial glory.
MikeF,
At the bottom I insert the lace tips in the lowest holes making a U when you pull it evenly into the quiver body. (You can reverse this to give a slight adjustment for the elbow bump by placing the lace in the top holes first) I then take each lace straight up (or down) to the hole above it and come out of the body. This way the vertical lace is kess likely to catch a sharp BH tip. I then attach the lace to the lower stap end going inside the strap on the flesh side of the leather. Then X them up to the next holes up, then back out again and then secure them under the X. It makes for easy adjustments to lengthen or shorten the strap.
If this makes sense, great. If not, I can try to upload some more pics.
Let me know. :thumbsup:
QuoteOriginally posted by Bud B.:
With the 6 holes at the top, attach in this manner. Start at the bottom holes with straight up lacing in the inside of the quiver.
(http://i.imgur.com/KrsiaiF.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/Tw93Crw.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/iDljiVE.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/hy3Gwhm.jpg)
Everything together.
(http://i.imgur.com/jejQ2g3l.jpg)
Glenn wanted 21" deep. I added a thick piece of leather cut just smaller than the bottom pattern and wedged it into the bottom of the quiver to protect the lacing from sharp broadhead points. This put me right on 21" deep.
That's it.
If there are questions, I'll be glad to offer my answers, but there are many techniques out there. This is just one way one leatherworker does it.
I treated Glenn's quiver leather before assembling. The vegetable tanned leather soaked up everything I put on it. It'll need more. The more you put on it, the darker the leather gets.
(http://i.imgur.com/MRy2oQl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LgyLtPd.jpg)
Awesome Bud!
gotta love leather...
Thanks Bud! I appreciate the help.