....with getting AD Trad Lites to shoot. I haven't found any problems getting them to fly perfect from all my hunting bows.
So many threads on getting them to fly right and those defending them saying "What's the Problem?".
Since I sold them, I decided I better learn a few things about them. My AD Trad Lites(Black) spine out 35/55. I refuse to have my arrows 3" longer than my draw, like most guys shoot carbons. Screws
up my split vision aiming method.
I cut these arrows down to 28.5"..same as my Wood and swagged aluminum. I draw a true 27". Installed a nock adapter, glued on 9/32 nock. Crown dipped them, 5" Parabolic feathers. Installed a 100 grain
brass insert, 35 grain broadhead adapter and 125 grain broadhead. Gives me 255 grains up front.
From day one, they flew straight and true out to 45 yds. They weigh in at 600 grains and today I finally shot them from my 55# Kempf longbow and lasers out to 35 yds. I'm using these for small game and stump shooting because of the toughness. However, I just can't figure out why guys are having so many problems getting the AD's to fly.
They fly great for me too....
I am with you Joe, never had a problem with my ADs, I shoot AD trads, trad lites, hammerheads, hammerhead lites, and AD Nitro stinger orange, green and gold, they all fly perfect out of my bows from 55# to 60#. Even had a 51# Schafer that they flew perfect out of. I have them from 30.5" down to 29.5" long with both brass and aluminum inserts and shoot with a total weight of 250 to 400 grains up front. and I draw a true 29".
work good for me too.
Seem OK for me. Just got a dz lites and a dz hammerhead lites to play with.
I have several different kinds of tapered shafts well two brands and four spines. I am not kicking the shafts but I can not seam to match my spines to my bows correctly. I seam to have some bows that like them and some that don't. Probably a lack of knowledge on my part.
The AD's have well for me.
I believe that most "tuning" problems can be tracked back to issues surrounding the shooter and not the equipment. :saywhat:
IMHO, it is extremely difficult to accurately interpret tuning results for the vast majority of stick bow archers. One must have impeccable form, consistent draw, near perfect release, etc. in order to begin to make judgments/changes. If ones draw varies as little as 1/4" from one shot to another, or your bow arm collapses, or your release varies the results will change. Furthermore, the target medium must be so uniform as to not change the direction of the shaft when entering and the archer must be perpendicular in all directions to the target. Any slight deviation will produce erroneous results.
I once found a bow refusing to be shot, an arrow needing to shoot straight, so with another bow and the arrow, there are more trails to follow.