Rather shoot an arrow that is slightly weak, or slightly stiff?
And why? Maybe a silly question, just curious what you tradgangers have to say.
Have seen a lot of guys say their bare shafts and/or arrow flight "perfect". I guess I'm not that good--but can get close.
In my experience, it's always been slightly one or the other.
(Usually a quick bare shafter, minor perfectionist ;) )
Rick McKinney says:
"When an arrow is launched from a bow, the arrow flexes (dynamic spine). This flex needs to be a specific amount and stay consistent among all the arrows in order to carry a group. If the arrow flexes too much it becomes exceptionally critical. The smallest mistake made by the arrow increases substantially if the arrow is too weak.
If the arrow is too stiff it is not as critical, but does not give the best possible grouping. Thus it is far better for the arrow to be too stiff than too weak. That is why you may note that some companies fudge on the size arrow recommended towards the stiff side. This is far better than on the weak side."
I'll take his word for it.
I disagree.
I've found that a slightly weak shaft is more forgiving than a slightly stiff shaft.
Lots of very dead animals that were shot with both...a sharp broadhead on an arrow that is not perfectly spined is still a pretty effective killer of game in my opinion...I suspect Fred Bear never once considered paper tuning a bow and he killed at least a couple of head of game
DDave
Of course, when I bare shaft, I try for the best possible arrow flight. I've found (with my shooting style on most of my bows), that the cleaner and straighter I can get my bare shafts flying, the more forgiving the arrow setup to minor inconsistencies. I think that equates to a good all around average for my shooting. That being said, if someone were to tune with a hooter shooter, or for a compound, a slightly weak bare shaft will yield the best results. Adding weight to the nock end of the shaft (feathers/vanes), will stiffen the dynamic spine of the shaft. Also, with trad shooting, your hunting draw length may be a tad shorter (odd angles and bulky clothing) than your backyard/target practice draw length. In short, I'd be happier with a touch weak, than a tad stiff. Hope this helps, and happy shooting!
I'll be watching this thread...I've had a recent experience with some shafts that "should be" a little stiff which are shooting much better for me than the shafts that "should be" right on to slightly weak. All that said, I tend to be a little tuning challenged due to my inability to shoot as well as I would like at longer distances.
What rick mckinney said.
I've been overs spining for about 40 years. Works for me.
Thanks for the replies.
Most of my spine issues occur with carbons. I tend to go lighter but at 55# I can go either way with most brands of carbons. I find the center shot on a bow makes more of a difference in spine selection.
With center cut or close to it I find too stiff more forgiving that too limber.
The theory that I hear most frequently with people who favor erring on the weak side is that most people tune and cut at a contrived draw length that is actually a bit longer than the draw they actually apply in the field. There are a lot of things that force a short draw in the woods from bad habits to, awkward angles, to bulky winter clothes. The theory is that a slightly weaker shaft will accommodate all these circumstances (more forgiving) better than a slightly stiff shaft.
I think it matters a whole lot more on self bows and traditional longbows than it does on center cut bows.
Yup...what Gregg said.
Makes sense that an arrow closer to center when leaving the bow can go that much straighter right quick like...so it can be a little stiffer.
For me...I need all the help I can get so I always try to purchase a bow which is cut a bit closer to center.
Now if I really actually knew what I was doing when it comes to tuning.....