Hi, just seeking some advice. Sold my Jaguar takedown. Never had trouble with it, just want to go more trad. What I did notice is that at #50, I could shoot fine at first, until about 20 arrows or so, then I'd get a little shaky. I must admit, starting with that bow screwed up learning proper form. Only now is it getting pretty good. I want to get my form "real good" so I was considering a #45. I mostly shoot in the backyard, and want to try some 3D, and then maybe, maybe, hunt something. Of course, maybe #40 is better than #45? I draw 29" now. What do you think?
I would go 45 lbs. at your draw length.It will also be a good hunting wgt. for most animals.Kip
Remember, if you buy a 45#@28" you're going to be drawing around 48# at 29"
That 50# Jaguar was probably 53# at your draw.
I started with a 40# ILF set for 40# @ 28". I draw almost 29". I ended up maxing out the limbs for 48# at my draw. I then bought a second set of limbs, 45#. Now shooting them maxed for 54# at my draw.
Like you I was concerned about bad habits and form due to over poundage. I am glad I went this route.
I also went with a 64" recurve and I think that really helped as well.
I'm leaning toward 45 myself. Yes, my bow was about 53 at my draw length.
I would go with 40# if your working on your form....you can always go up later. After many years at this I'm back down to 40#. I also draw 29" and would hunt most things with that poundage. Elk or sheep I would go heavier. For 3/D and form work.......40# would be my choice.
I'd go with 40 for learning form and shooting 3D. From a recurve 40# is enough for deer. Besides the extra 5 pounds will mean nothing if you miss.
40 is starting to sound better. I'm entirely self-taught so it's taken a long time to get there. I have some Gold Tip weights, tool, etc. Would 1535's 30" length be good to start with for a 40 lb. bow? (I have 145 gr. field tips and broadheads.)
Give them a try, you can go up or down in point weight to fine tune. Maybe try what you have with more weight up front just for fun......it may work!
Just consider the regulations in your area regarding minimum draw weight (at your length) for game. In PA, it's 35 lbs for deer, 45 for elk / bear. You don't want to inadvertently wind up with a bow you can't hunt your desired quarry with.
For learning and practicing your form, lighter is often better. 40lbs is good, 35 may be better.
I think you could easily work into the 45 if you were pulling 53. 45 at 29 is perfect for anything in the woods including Elk! :archer:
Do 30" 1535's work for a #45 Samick Sage? My 3355's were a little stiff for my Jaguar. I'm going to buy that until I save enough for something nice.
Hi Frank,
The good thing is you have realized that you may have a little to much bow. You really will never reach your full potential with a bow that has you thinking about the draw. The draw is part of the process,but that is where it should stop. There are other things that you need to focus on, like a small little spot where you want your arrow to hit. You can't do that to well when your bow is dancing around.
So anyhow,if it were me,the 40# would be where my cash would be going. You are going to be at 43# give or take,and that is going to put you at 10# less than your Jag. You get the right spine arrow for the 43# and I guarantee you will not notice much difference at all in your arrow flight. Where you will see a difference is the way you will be able to handle the bow,which in turn will help you with your form. Now instead of that bow wearing you out,you will be able to concentrate really hard on what you want to hit.
40# will shoot right thru a deer broadside with the right arrow and broad head . I am just not blowing smoke,I have done it. And so can you if you put the time in. Good luck.
Good Shooting,
Craig
if you are in good condition by all means go with 45. at your draw you might break 50. Im assuming this will be not one of your bows but YOUR bow for the time being. if you shoot it regular it will feel like a rubber band, and you will be above the legal weight for a lot of hunts including all of ak big game.
45# at your draw length is an 8# drop in weight. I think you should be able to handle that quite nicely. A bow that's too light can mess up/keep you from achieving good form just as easily as one that's too heavy. For example, some have trouble holding a light draw bow on target and getting off the string cleanly. 45# at your draw length is a good middle ground. Good luck.
There are other choices than 40 and 45 pounds...custom bows are often marked at weights between those two as are many older bows...my experience has been that a 5 pound increase in draw weight is not important until you are approaching the maximum for your current conditioning...for me that is the jump from 60 to 65 pounds
DDave
I've got a Kota Kill-Um 60" 50's style recurve 42# @ 28" in all Bocote with a Black leather grip if you are interested. Smooth shooter and 9.5+ condition. PM me with your e-Mail if you are interested and I can send some pics and give you the details.
I'm thinking at my draw length we're actually talking 43 or 48. Does that change your recommendations?
Nope......
Yes, at your draw length, you would want a bow marked about 43#@28 inches,if you're buying an already made/used bow. Since you draw to 29 inches, it will pull about 45# plus at 29 inches.
Most production bows are marked in 5# increments, but you can specify the draw weight at a given draw length if you have a bow custom-made. Some bowyers might change the limb stack (i.e., thickness and taper of the laminations, maybe the thickness of the glass,etc.) when making bows for specific draw lengths, but most don't. They just mark the bow weight at the draw length ordered.So, if you order a new bow made to draw 45#@29 inches, that's what it will be.
Now I'm leaning toward 40. I want to get a real nice bow later, maybe a White Wolf. Maybe at that time, bump up to 45...
What length hybrid works best at his specs?
Even after shooting for quite a while I get sloppy sometimes. Soooooo, I return to a 43# at 10 yards until form has been restored. The lighter bow will require more perfect form to shoot well...I say 40#...
Even after shooting for quite a while I get sloppy sometimes. Soooooo, I return to a 43# at 10 yards until form has been restored. The lighter bow will require more perfect form to shoot well...I say 40#...
Ok, I've decided. I'll be getting the 40 and 30" Gold Tip Trad 1535's. Yay for me. :)
I like your choice, don't doubt it.
For what it's worth, I shoot 3555's, cut to 29", with 125 gr points, out of my 45# Sage. I have a 28" draw.
My son shoots 30" 1535's from his 35# Sage. They seem to like a heavier spine than i thought. YMMV
Good choice Frank,you will have a great time shooting that bow.
Good Shooting,
Craig
Most of my bows are 50_55 lbs, and i wish i could swap all of them for 45# bows, even considered selling all and just buying a couple bows 45@28, one for hunting and one for 3-d, and be satisfied with two bows, does a fella really need more?
I would do it. I felt a 40 and a 45 Sage after shooting a 50 for the last four years. The 40 just feels clean, and when I hold it at draw, I hardly move, very still. I'll shoot it for awhile before finding a nice one, maybe 40, maybe 45. We'll see. Right now I'm leaning toward a White Wolf or Hoyt Dorado. :)
The only thing I have found is if the bow gets too light I shoot it worse. I normally shoot a couple of 70's Bear 45# bows; now my daughter has a 35# lb recurve that I don't shoot nearly as well. A friend has a 50# Widow that I shot a 3D course with last weekend and I don't know that I didn't do better with it than my bows. (could be because it's a Widow too ;) ) I think a little heavier bow makes me focus better on what I am doing.
go with 40 lbs an get new limbs later or deal with 45 an don't get new limbs its all in how well you feel at 45 .I shoot 52-53 an for me 40lbs is a great feeling fourm bow just my thoughts.good luck ED