Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: halfseminole on May 28, 2014, 02:22:00 PM
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Here in Alabama, we don't have a coyote "season" as such, we just get to shoot them if we see them. I don't even believe there's a bag limit. This is important, because the summer 'yotes attacked and nearly killed one of our dogs. We actually saw it happen. Dog will survive, though she feels like hell.
I picked myself up a half-dozen of Gold Tip's Expedition Hunter shafts, 7595 w/white fletching and nocks. Hopefully I can see those at dusk, the time where they're most active here. But I need some advice. I've shot about every style, some better than others, but I've never shot carbons and I don't know what to tip them with. Any recommendations there would be appreciated.
I want to note that this is for coyote only, using a 32" draw (length of the carbons) and my Scythian recurve which comes in about 45# at that draw. I can shoot that one on either side, left of the bow American or right of the bow Asian, and it puts anything including stripped privet suckers right where you point it.
I don't want a coyote limping off into our yard of the wife's family's fru-fru dogs and I worry for my new hunting buddy, a well trained Great Pyrenees who can do anything from help me up off the ground to stand her ground against two coyotes at once. But I don't want that. I want my shots to stop in their tracks, best as possible. This isn't about fair play any more, it's about seven and eight in the yard menacing humans because they have no fear.
I'm looking for a proper electronic call as well. Song dogs are smart, and the only ones I've taken before were with 00 buckshot in the middle of the front yard. I have a place crossing their trails I can get above, so I have all that going for me. I just need to know what to add to these arrows to make them fall in their tracks.
I'm sure I'm forgetting something here, or simply don't know enough to do this right, so if anyone has any more insight, I'd appreciate it.
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A .223 AR works better....... I HATE YOTES!
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Hit right with a broadhead = dead dog......hit wrong with a mack truck = wounded dog that can travel 1000 miles on one leg. If there is anything tougher than a wounded coyote, I don't want to know what it is. You shouldn't need a fancy setup, just an accurate one. They're small, fast and cagey..........I'm thinking drone strikes may be the most effective. :readit: :D
Darcy
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The 7595's sound stiff even with your long draw length.Your bow not being cut to center,compounds the problem.At least,I would think you would need a heavy point.
Given your situation I would probably try a wide two or three blade head like Zwickey Deltas,Simmons or snuffers.Coyotes aren't heavy built but if you were worried about the arrow staying in,a 2 blade might have more chance for a pass through.Expect a coyote to run,unless brain or spine is hit.They are very tough.Make sure whatever broadhead you use is as sharp as you can get it.
I don't have a ton of experience calling but I would bet if they are used to coming around houses,they won't be hard to call,at least until they have had a bad experience.There are some pretty cheap electronic calls and they should work.If you want to spend more money,look at Fox Pro models with remotes.
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What do you deer hunt with? I would imagine that same setup would be just fine. However, I agree with awbowman - a well zeroed rifle is permissible when dealing with coyotes. I share his feelings toward them.
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You need to contact thumper dunker...I'm sure he can set you on the right path. Good luck!!
Jake
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Until I retired from agriculture, I raised sheep in upstate New York, within sight of the Canadian border. We had big, eastern coyotes who could become fairly aggressive. On my farm, coyote control wasn't hunting; it was war. I have had coyotes look me in the eye at 30 to 40 yards--and then continue an attack on a sheep, or my border collie. It was rare, but it happened--and was reported to the state, where it was classified as an "incident" only one level below an attack on a human being.
Coyotes were engaged at every opportunity, with any weapon at hand. Once, in defense of my working dog, and unarmed, I simply ran at a big female and backed her off. (That was the reported incident.) I shot her the next day, (she had patterned us). She weighed 55 pounds. When I told a State biologist conducting a seminar about livestock predation, about my incident, and how it was resolved, he grinned and said, "I love North Country people".
For coyotes, I greatly preferred my .270 to my recurve. I can relate to your adrenaline....
I can appreciate your desire for a quick, clean, kill. I always tried for that, as well, but in defense of pets or livestock, I took the shot I was given, with whatever I had. It sounds bad, I know, but a grievious wound was as good as a kill, for my purposes. When they are packed-up, I do not believe coyotes look upon an injured member with great sympathy....
I fully agree with the advice you have been given, I would only add: if you can get a hit, get the hit. You are right, "this isn't about fair play, anymore". Take the shot. Get the hit.
Good luck; good hunting.
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Most any well placed arrow will do. I hunt them heavily from fall to spring, with firearms that is. They can be extremley tough, but not hard to kill. I usually will arrow 1 or 2 per year for fun.
I used to hunt them for sheep ranchers here in California, taking 75-100 per season. But that takes a lot of time and drive (not to mention money/fuel etc) and dont even come close to that last few years.
Mark
edit to add...Im not real sure your going to "stop them in thier tracks" with an arrow even a quarter of the time...they have a lot of tenacity, and even with a rifle, you have runners a lot of the time, so have a plan before you shoot them.
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Go to harbor freight and get their hand held megaphone for about ten bucks. Rewire it so a jack from a CD player or smart phone ear buds replace the built in mouth piece wires. Load your phone or cds with calls downloaded for free from "varmint Al's" web site and go get em.
you can spend a bunch of dough on a commercial call, but they are going to get wise so quick that calling will be only your opening salvo in an ongoing war. They wise up fast! This time of year a fawn or domestic puppy distress call is very effective.
only thing a coyote prefers to eat over dogs is cats.
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There's no arrow/point combination that will consistently stop a coyote, or any other critter, in its track. Arrows kill by causing hemorrhaging, not impact/shock, such as a bullet. Any arrow you shoot will likely go through the critter. It will die, yes, but not necessarily in it's tracks. The only way to stop them in their their tracks with an arrow might be with head shots, or spine shots, the latter require a follow up shot. Coyotes are better at jumping the string than deer, and faster at doing it, too. I agree with the others who suggested using a gun.
Also agree that 75-95s are way too stiff for your set-up.
Good luck on getting the yotes.
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If you really have a bad yote problem I would trap them, if you have a part of your property where your dogs don't get into you could make some sets there. Once you got them in a trap your method of dispatch is up to you but most states have a year round trapping and hunting season for them...
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I understand your desire to use a recurve bow to take care of your coyote problem but defending family pets and livestock is not "recreational" hunting. I get coyotes in my yard every time my female golden retriever comes in heat. I love my long bows but when that happens i grab a 12ga. full of #4 buck shot. Having said that, I have called predators and had good luck with snuffers on any and all shot angles.
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If you insist on using a bow then get the biggest Simmons they make. I put a 4 blade 125gr Magnus Buzzcut right through the middle of one at three paces last elk season and it didn't even appear wounded as it ambled off giving me a dirty look the whole time. They are super tough and that one post about being able to go a thousand yards on one leg or however it was put wasn't too far off the mark. I think the buckshot you mentioned is a better option if legal!
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Originally posted by awbowman:
A .223 AR works better....... I HATE YOTES!
I agree. About the only thing I would use a gun for.
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I lived in CA for a number of years and used to shoot somewhere near 50 dogs a year. Many of them were with a.22 long rifle. There not that tuff but like any animal you need to hit the "vitals". Otherwise as mentioned they will go a long way. Use any good deer set up.
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I shot one with a big snuffer a couple weeks ago. It was a nice mess
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if they are in a pack all you have to do is gut shoot it & the others will gang up on it & kill it.
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THUMPER DUNKER!
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A fast arrow and a big sharp broad head. Their kill zone is the size of a base ball. If you mess up the first time you will not get a second chance. If you really want to get them shot gun and # 4buck shot our a rifle 22s are too small.
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What thunker dunker said. #4 buck anchors them awful good.
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We were tryibg to get one off the airport. Our fences are plenty tight, so it could not find its way out. We ran it up and down the far fence line until the FAA tower said "enough". That dog must have run at near top speed for 15 minutes.
We drove close and a load of # 2's ended it. I trapped them and called them, and they are a worthy adversary. Thumper has it down as he is the master of dogs elimination...
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i think them 7595 shafts would be far too heavily spined. unless you put about 350gr up front.
from what i read, your not in a hunting situation. extermination is what your after. i've used .22mag to disperse many yotes. countless during calving season on the ranch in alberta. slugs in a shotgun work good too.
taking yotes with a bow is fun. tests you and all, but, if they in your yard attacking your animals, harrasing people. then there are no rules for engagement.
once you get the numbers down a bit. then i would do population control using a call and blind. i've had great success with a foxpro with trad archery. http://www.gofoxpro.com/site/ one fruitful day i managed 3 yotes in 2 hours at the same set using the ELB i received in last years TG trade.
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You guys talk about spine like it matters-it was the first thing that I was taught to ignore. My teacher had a five gallon bucket of random arrows and we had to practice until we could shoot anything we found. Asian archery doesn't really consider spine at all, if it's the right length it'll fly. The technique was developed to shoot an enemy's arrows back at them. But with a thumb ring and the arrow pass on the other side I can shoot anything.
As to the idea of guns, nothing is ruled out. I haven't ruled out traps either. That dog ended up getting finished off, and I have had enough dog funerals this month. I'm going tomorrow to pay the game warden a visit and see just how far I can take this legally. If legal, I have a LOT of vials of heparin that I can dose meat with, all acquired legally (as my wife is on permanent blood thinners for a clotting factor issue.). I could see no regulation against it on arrows so long as it wasn't deer, but I'm not gonna touch the stock unless I get the OK from them. I could not get a solid law against (or that even mentioned it) and I want to find out if it's OK. Just a nick would bleed wildly, making those arrows a lot more effective.
You won't hear me supporting baiting deer, or using anectine on them, or any such, because I don't go for that. Deer aren't routinely dangerous, but coyote are, and they have no fear of humans. Think I'd like to try my new bow on them. But if it comes down to it I'll set out jaw traps full of heparin and let them bleed out. As you gentlemen know, it's war on coyotes.
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As far as broadheads go, any you can shoot accuratly will do. If they don't die then, they will later. Don't let your dog after them no matter how big he is. They will tag team him and kill him. I've killed many with a .22Mag. We have a lot here in Nevada and they are a problem. don't think too many people harbor favorable opinions of them. You can put out some traps but neighbors dogs might get caught.