Has anybody seen the bare shaft method Greyarcher1 teaches on you tube? What do you think? Seems too simple?
That's how I like to tune. One change at a time and a little cut here. And than try fletched arrows to see if they group together.
I like bare shaft tuning. I shoot them with a bit of tape near the nock to simulate the fletching weight. I shoot them indoors under the lights and watch the arrow flight as well as shooting them with fletched arrows. If I can get them flying straight, they shoot with fletched arrows.
I start full length and change out the points first. Then is I have to do so, I cut them a little at a time. Sometimes you can cut a fair amount before it affects spine. I recently cut my GoldTips from 32" to 30 1/2" without any noted change. Usually that much makes for a change in spine effects.
His chart helped a lot for me. He got some other stuff that pretty good too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ME9s6Si1pBE&index=32&list=PL81D485C18F72A9CD
L.R.
I take a fletched arrow and then cut off just the feather and the leave the quill to use as the "bare shaft".
Well so far with bare shafting here is my results. Set-up lefty 45# at 30in. draw, 64in., R/D longbow, not cut to center. My CE 150's with 125gr. point, way to weak. Even after I cut them down to 30.5 in. Still to weak. So I tried a 400 spine shaft cut to 31.5 with 145gr. tip, flew like a dart. To my surprise and set-up I needed a stiffer arrow. The charts say use a 500 spine shaft. But 400 flew very well and my bow is SUPER quiet too.
I only shoot wood and like bareshafting..... but I do the math first- you can use Stu's calculator too to get into the range. Anything under 20 yds just does not work for me-badness does not show up unless you are off by a fair bit. Also how can you see your shafting in flight? I generally have someone look for me-and I for them, the shafts are traveling too fast for me to see them. I bareshaft out to 30 yds-then I am done.