would you hesitate shooting 1916's out of a 47 pound bow if they are shooting where youre looking and flying straight? I tried 2018's and they seemed rather stiff and I dont have 2016's to try. But my bow is shooting great, just worried about damaging the limbs however i believe im still at about 9gpp.
You are fine! I shoot 1916s a lot and they are fine for + or - 50#
Arne
Do it all the time. Have two bows in that weight range and they love 1916's. Mine weigh around 450 grains so are around 9.5 gpp.
No problem here I have used them then I found some 1918's and switched to them. A bit stiffer but add a little wieght out front and they work .
My 1916's cut to 28.5" weigh in at 451gr with 3x4" feathers, a 7" wrap and a 125gr ...they're perfect for that weight bow
My 45#, (48#) with my draw, early 70's Grizzly shoots them OK, however my 45# KMag pushes them right, which means underspine. That dynamic spine calculator says the KMag needs a heavier spined arrow, and it looks like it does. I'm starting to think Stu Miller knows what he is talking about! Sounds like you are fine.
If it shoots straight it doesn't matter who made it, what it's number is, or what it's made of.
I use 1916's from two of my bows: Hybrid longbow 47# @ 27", and a recurve 45# @ 27".
A 1916 is right on the money according to the Easton chart.
I would say a 1916 is the right arrow for any bow between 45 and 50 pounds without loading up the point weight.
QuoteOriginally posted by JamesKerr:
I would say a 1916 is the right arrow for any bow between 45 and 50 pounds without loading up the point weight.
I read that on here when I joined and that's what I bought, while it may be true in general you can't broad brush it for every bow. According to Stu Miller's calculator with my draw and a 30" arrow with 125gr points I should be using 2018's with my 45# KMag; Which is 2 sizes up. Like I said in my post above the way my KMag shoots those 1916's there is no doubt they are underspined.
Nope, and have.