Hi All, I am totally new to archery and have bypassed the usual route and gone directly to Traditional vs starting with a compound.
I am working on form and while I may be a bit overbowed, I limit my shooting to short periods to try to maintain consistency. Regardless, I love shooting this thing... what a blast.
I am currently limited to shooting in a garage most of the time (6-7 yds max).
Bow: Bear Montana Longbow
Weight 50lbs @ 28 - so my draw weight is 52-53 lbs?
Draw Length: 28.5-29
Arrow: Beman Center Shot 400 - full length, 125grain Field point
Shooting instinctively based on G. Fred Asbell's book - or attempting to.
Questions:
I can group 3-4 arrows within 4 inches when all goes well. Do I continue to work on form etc or worry about tuning arrows etc to get better consistency and accuracy?
Are Aluminum Arrows easier to tune? If so what are some recommended arrow set ups for my bow etc?
What weight and style of broadhead would some of you recommend?
Any other advice on arrow set-up and tuning would be appreciated. Thanks. I'm sure I'll have more questions as I go.
Cheers
400s are pretty stiff for your setup, 500s would be closer. IF you want aluminum, get 2016s. That said, Just shoot what you have for a while (couple months). Work on your shot and forget tuning until much later. Way too soon to worry about broad heads -- JUST SHOOT for a while!!
Arne
There are lots of us from all over Canada...if you give us an idea where you are in this vast nation we can tell you where to meet up with experienced archers...best way I know of to get on the right track
DDave
Check out Ken Becks videos on the black widow web site clear and well made.
https://blackwidowbows.com/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=17
As was said earlier, you are shooting too stiff of an arrow and a 500 with 200 grains or more would be preferable. With that being said if you have much invested in the arrows I would get a heavy weight field point test pack from three rivers and see what happens.
I shoot heavyweight up front personally so others may tell you differently, but regardless you are on the right track!
Beware, this is an addiction!
WELCOME!!
Ideas for you.
Asbell videos
Byron Ferguson's books and videos
book called Shooting The Sticks 2nd edition
Join a archery club near you or go to 3D shoots
Compton Traditional Bowhunters Rendezvous in Michigan this June
Rod Jenkins clinic or find a great mentor/coach
Watch Moebow videos on YouTube and others
3 rivers archery.com
Lancaster archery.com
Practice form first and foremost.
I would most definately work on form first. Without being able to group arrows withing 3-4" consistantly and have good form all the time it is basically impossible to tune arrows to a traditional bow. Besides tuning can be frustrating at times even for an experienced shooter that is consistent and has good form. The single most important aspect of shooting a traditional bow is FUN! #2 is form.
Thank you for all the quick replies and advice. Great videos too. I'll look for some heavier points to see if that helps.
I only bought 6 of these 400s to start with, so I'm not overly invested in them.
Question:
When I get some softer spined arrows, should I leave them full length for now? If so can I remove the threaded insert after it is glued in in case I need to cut the down when the time comes to tune them.... after much more practice.
DDAVE - I live in Jasper, about 3-4 hours from you
Thanks Again
Welcome :campfire:
Chaves....
2016 should be perfect for you.
My HH longbow is 49 @ 29" I cut them to 29" with 125 up front, and they fly great....
Good site here, welcome. For info on tuning/form, Asbell's 2nd book, Byron Ferguson's "Become the Arrow", and "Shooting the Stickbow", have been the most useful for me. For dvd's, the Black Widow DVD and B. Ferguson's "tuning for Extreme Accuracy", have also made the tuning process really simple for me. These guys here are very useful too, so ask away. Good luck.
Gold tip 15/35's at .600 with the 125 tips will work about perfect for you.
QuoteOriginally posted by Chad Orde:
Check out Ken Becks videos on the black widow web site clear and well made.
https://blackwidowbows.com/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=17
Thank you for the post, best 11 minute video I have ever seen on bare shaft tuning! Very straight forward and lots of info with video examples. Good stuff.
Well, I was out stump shooting and the now only have two marginally shootable arrows.... looks like I'm going shopping. Thanks again for the welcome and advice.
As an aside;
I was out scouting as well and found a couple of Cougar killed deer skeletons. Saw this cat last fall while gun hunting and had a little scare while field dressing a deer. Hope it moves on before fall.
For what it is worth, I am shooting full length .400s with 125 tips and they fly fine from my bow. I just got a second set of limbs and they shoot bare shaft very well out of 53# @ 29". They were a touch stiff on the others being 48# @ 29". The .500 Kinetics I have showed a touch weak spined for the 48#.
If you have decent form, try bare shaft testing.
I do think aluminum is easier to tune than carbons. The nice thing about aluminums is the range of spine options. Carbons give you .400 or .500. You get to tune by adjusting point weight and shaft length. With aluminums, you get a range of shaft sizes between .400 and .500 (2016 is .530")
Here is a link to an article containing a spine chart for Easton aluminum arrows. Click on the slide bar for viewing more selections.
QuoteOriginally posted by Wheels2:
I do think aluminum is easier to tune than carbons. The nice thing about aluminums is the range of spine options. Carbons give you .400 or .500. You get to tune by adjusting point weight and shaft length. With aluminums, you get a range of shaft sizes between .400 and .500 (2016 is .530")
Here is a link to an article containing a spine chart for Easton aluminum arrows. Click on the slide bar for viewing more selections.
X's 2 Wheels
My link did not make it through. Go to "Shootingthestickbow.com" and then look under the tab for "arrow Guide"
Thanks again everyone.
Question:
Most of the arrows I have looked at all have different grains per inch weights. For example two different carbon arrow manufacturer's arrows of same spine, weigh differently (gpi). Is this some thing to be concerned about now? If I plan on hunting eventually (when I get good enough), should I be practicing with the right weight arrow as well as spined arrow?
If so what is the appropriate weight arrow for deer sized game? 500gr total arrow weight?
If so, does this effect the spine at all of are these totally unrelated?
Hope that made sense.
Most will suggest 9-10gr. per pound of bow weight for the finished arrow, including broadhead, so for your 52-53# 500gr. is perfect. Some go much heavier, but for a good compromise between energy and trajectory 9-10gpp. has been getting it done for years.